5 authentic Hong Kong experiences you won't find anywhere else

Dim Sum at Dawn

While we love our fancy dim sum here at Tatler, there’s a certain magic and authenticity that can only be found at the local tea houses that open before sunrise; we especially love Sun Hing and Sheung Hei in Kennedy Town.

Serving customers from around 3am or 4am, these diners are a mix of taxi drivers—some ending the late-night shift, others beginning at dawn—and those crawling in from nearby bars in search of something hearty to soak up the booze.

The scene is one you’ll only find here: bamboo baskets of freshly made dim sum, still steaming, are stacked higher than most can reach; a soundtrack of loud chatter, teacups hitting the wooden or plastic tables, and birds chirping as daylight creeps in. 

Inner City Hikes 

Hong Kong has always been promoted as a bustling metropolis: towering skyscrapers, busy streets and vibrant nightlife. It is all of those things, but it’s also a little known fact that it's one of the greenest cities in the world.

Around 70 per cent of Hong Kong is green space,. meaning you’re never more than a short drive from lush green mountains, national parks, pristine beaches and uninhabited islands.

Within a 20-minute drive from Central, you’ll find yourself on some gorgeous nature trails. Hike up to Victoria Peak from Mid-Levels, followed by the circular Peak Morning Trail for 360-degree views that span the skyline and the southside’s sparkling sea dotted with islands. Despite the fact I grew up here, seeing that aerial view of the city still never fails to blow my mind.

You can also enjoy an easy flat walk on Bowen Road; catch the iconic sunset views on Sir Cecil’s Ride in Braemar Hill; or challenge yourself on Violet Hill and The Twins, a stunning mountain hike surrounded by country park.

Of course, you can venture out to rural areas for even more adventurous treks: scale the iconic Lion Rock, catch a breathtaking sunset on Lantau Peak or make a pilgrimage to one of Hong Kong’s most beautiful beaches at Sai Kung’s Tai Long Wan. Be syre to reward yourself with a good feed, using our guide to Hong Kong hikes and where to eat after. 

Island Hopping

A favourite Hong Kong pastime is getting a group together and taking a boat out for the day to explore the outer islands—there are more than 260 of them, after all. There are plenty of charter companies that rent out classic “junks”—wooden vessels—or you can splash out on a yacht; we love Simpson Marine, Asia Marine and Hong Kong Yachting.

Sunbathe on the deck, cool off in clear waters, and when it’s time for lunch, it doesn’t get better than docking at one of the islands for fresh, Cantonese-style seafood. The menus can be overwhelming for first-timers, but start with a whole steamed fish with soy and ginger, razor clams and scallops steamed with garlic and vermicelli, and the rest will fall into place.

Lamma Island is a popular choice for such feasts; most people go to Lamma Rainbow, but it's become a bit of a tourist hotspot.
For something a little more under the radar, our pick is Genuine Lamma Hilton Fishing Village Restaurant. Personally, I love going out to Clearwater Bay—either to the floating fishing village at Kau Sai Wan or Seafood Island in Po Toi O, a restaurant my family has frequented for decades.

Tatler tip: These places are usually BYO, so bring a few bottles on board with you.

Lost Arts 

Hong Kong is a city of makers, many of whom are the last to specialise in fading traditional techniques. There are still craftspeople making mahjong tiles by hand—although they are few and far between. One of the last of these artisans can be found at Biu Kee Mahjong in Jordan, now run by Cheung Shun-king, more affectionately known as Uncle King. The store was originally founded by his father in the 1960s, and he’s been honing his craft for over 50 years.

At Ma Wa Lane in Sheung Wan, also known as Chop Alley, you’ll find a row of stalls where craftsmen still make personalised stamps, or “chops”, hand-carved from stone. Topped with an ornate carving, often of lucky animals such as lions, horses and dragons, these are still used as official stamps by businesses in Hong Kong today. But you can get any name or message—as long as it fits on the block—engraved.

NOW READ

Why does the Dragon Boat Festival matter to Chinese communities?

Soneva launches “Bare Luxury”, a thoughtful brand refresh

The rise of grocery store tourism, and some of the best places to explore markets, supermarkets and convenience stores

Where to get K-pop idol transformations in Seoul