Cover Dervla Louli is the founder of Compare Retreats
Dervla Louli is the founder of Compare Retreats
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The best way to travel like a local is to ask a local. In this series of travel guides, we ask creatives and insiders from our global community to show us their city, their way. In this instalment, Dervla Louli Musgrave, founder of Compare Retreats, shows us Dublin's best restaurants and shops, along with some of Irelands scenic destinations
Every year, Dervla Louli Musgrave—the founder of Hong Kong-based Compare Retreats, and who is of Egyptian-Irish descent— travels back to Ireland, which she describes as "her second home" and "a place that holds very special memories".
From attending Trinity College in Dublin, living in leafy Ballsbridge, visiting family along the Wild Atlantic Way and spending summers in West Cork, she’s travelled the length and breadth of the country and still can’t get enough.
“Ireland is a magical and popular bucket-list destination that is home to Guinness, impressive castles, charming country houses, famous cooking schools, the cutest farm animals you’ll ever see, beautiful beaches, stunning hikes and of course, the famous 40-
shades of green. Star Wars, Harry Potter and Braveheart were filmed there, it’s where Sarah Jessica Parker was inspired to launch her own wine, and it’s become a summering hot spot for celebrities like Emily Ratajkowski looking for some peace and quiet," she says. "The best time to visit is during the Summer Solstice in late June, when the days are long and the sun doesn’t go down until almost 10pm. [My husband and I] got married in Tipperary on the longest day of the year and it rained, hailed and shined at various times throughout the day, which is very typical of an Irish summer. On that wild weather note, layers including cashmere, denim, linen and down are packing necessities, as are Birkenstocks, wellingtons, and a sense of humour.”
Adare Manor, Adare
A visit to Ireland is incomplete without stepping foot in a castle, and while there are a multitude to choose from, award-winning Adare Manor is my all-time favourite. Falconry, archery, clay pigeon shooting and horse-drawn carriages are all part of the experience, as is the warm outstanding Irish hospitality.
Ireland’s Blue Book
For a more intimate stay I always refer to the country houses in Ireland’s Blue Book, a stunning collection of design-led properties. Michelin-star cookery school Ballymaloe in Cork, The Merrion in Dublin, and meticulously-restored Ballyfin Demesne in Laois are my favourites.
Tiller + Grain, Dublin
Ireland is known for its delicious food produce, and Dublin is full of outstanding options. Fine-dining foodies need look no further than Chapter One and Patrick Guilbaud for culinary excellence. But while I enjoy delicious meals, I prefer them a little more down to earth. Tiller + Grain is a cute café around the corner from Trinity College Dublin, where resident star baker Rose Ponsonby whips up lighter-than-air sweet treats. I’m so obsessed with her gluten-free chocolate covered coconut cake that I asked for the recipe so I can recreate it in Hong Kong.
Etto, Dublin
Close to the National Gallery is cute and cosy wine bar Etto where restaurateur Liz Matthews serves up violet artichokes and Prosecco on tap. Don’t be fooled by the nonchalant and relaxed nature of the place, it’s notoriously hard to get a booking so make a reservation in advance.
Mamó, Dublin
Further North along the coast in Howth is unmissable Michelin-worthy Mamó where co- founder Jess D’Arcy’s hospitality is only outshone by the food. Their melt-in-your-mouth cod chips and Boyne valley cheese beignets are two snacks best enjoyed on their summer terrace.
Stable of Ireland, Dublin
A trip to Ireland is never complete without stopping by Stable of Ireland by Francie Duff and Sonia Reynolds. It’s a treasure trove of handwoven linen, wool accessories and tableware in Dublin created by 25 artisans across the country. All of the products are unique and make perfect gifts.
Louise Kennedy, Dublin
Many years ago I walked in designer Louise Kennedy’s Autumn Winter fashion show that took place in her meticulous four-story townhouse in the heart of historic Georgian Dublin. It has been Louise’s home and headquarters for over two decades, and her collections are just as beautiful as the interiors. I’m particularly fond of her vibrant bright pink pieces which were part of her core collections long before Valentino’s pink pp.
Sip, shop and stroll
A trip to Ireland wouldn’t be complete without popping into into a pub for a pint of Guinness. Tour around the Guinness distillery before stopping by Dublin Castle and checking out the Book of Kells in Trinity College. Wander along Grafton Street and check out Brown Thomas for a carefully curated high-end edit of homeware, fashion and accessories.
Be tempted by antique jewellery at JW Weldons on Clarendon Street, stroll around St. Stephen’s Green park and finish up at O’Donaghue’s bar for live music and a tipple, or two. A cocktail at The Ivy, designed by Martin Brudnizki, or The Sitting Room at Delahunt is the perfect way to end the evening.
The Forty Foot
If you watched the hit series Bad Sisters, you’ll know that a freezing cold dip in the Irish Sea at The Forty Foot in Sandycove is a must. The now-famous sea swimming spot is not for the faint of heart, and you will be judged if you don’t stay in longer than a minute or two. Bring a dry robe, a friend and a cup of coffee to help you thaw out after.
The Wild Atlantic Way
The Wild Atlantic Way is a 2,500km route that spans nine counties, and follows a coastal road connecting small towns and villages along the western coast of Ireland. You can cycle, walk or drive along it easily. The jewel in the crown on the west Clare coast is the Cliffs of Moher, where you can take in the incredible view 700 feet above sea level. Skellig is also breathtaking, and where Star Wars: The Force Awakens was filmed.
Criostal na Rinne, Waterford
I’ve been going to Ring in Waterford every summer since I was born and while I love traditional Waterford Crystal, those in the know go straight to Eamonn Terry’s workshop. Eamonn was the master craftsman glass cutter at Waterford Crystal, and opened Criostal na Rinne in 1987.
He is the crystal cutter of choice when Irish dignitaries need to create bespoke gifts for Presidents, heads of state and royalty. His Cló decanter and tumbler set is my favourite wedding gift for friends.
Coco Marett is a writer and editor who grew up between Hong Kong and Melbourne. She currently heads the travel section for Tatler Asia, and manages the Tatler Travel account on Instagram. She is known for her features on unique, under-the-radar properties and destinations. She's also known for her in-depth interviews that paint a refreshingly candid portrait of influential figures across various industries —from artists to political figures, CEOs to celebrity chefs. Follow her on Instagram @cocomarett
