Cover According to chef Palash Mitra, Indian street food is a fine art in itself (Photo: Getty Images)
According to chef Palash Mitra, Indian street food is a fine art in itself (Photo: Getty Images)
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On India’s Independence Day, Tatler revisits our culinary journey to the country’s six cities, Delhi, Jaipur, Udaipur, Lucknow, Chennai and Hyderabad, with Indian chef Palash Mitra
In India, the best places to eat are also the best-kept secrets. For every fine-dining restaurant that’s blowing up on the internet, there is a cheaper, equally delicious, equally authentic alternative somewhere nearby, which is likely to be a hole-in-the-wall eatery in an alley which a visitor wouldn’t even glance at twice.
But these are the places that those in the know go to. And Chef Palash Mitra, the culinary director of South Asian cuisine at Black Sheep Restaurants (BSR), is someone who’s definitely in the know. Tatler accompanied him and a few other members of the BSR team on a culinary inspiration trip to India ahead of the opening of Prince and the Peacock, the group’s Tai Kwun restaurant that pays tribute to the royal cuisines of India. It’s part of the second phase of BSR’s ambitious revival project for the heritage venue’s Central Magistracy building.
The mission of this trip is to be inspired by all things Indian, from the country’s forts, palaces and hospitality to, of course, the food and the diverse culinary techniques. This quest led the team to explore the food, culture and vibrance of six cities: Delhi, Jaipur, Udaipur, Lucknow, Chennai and Hyderabad. Chef Mitra reveals the culinary gems from these places and more.
Read more: In India, Black Sheep Restaurants searches for royal flavours to bring back to Hong Kong
Above Chef Palash Mitra (Photo: Black Sheep Restaurants)
Chef Palash Mitra (Photo: Black Sheep Restaurants)
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Name one must-try dish from each city that you visited.
In Delhi, the butter chicken at Moti Mahal is iconic. I liked it so much that I introduced it on the menu at Prince and the Peacock. The next stop was Jaipur, where our dinner at the heritage restaurant 1135AD within the historic Amer Fort really stood out. The paneer ka soola was particularly memorable, I don’t think I have ever eaten such soft paneer before this. In Udaipur, it has to be the traditional Rajasthani thali, where the server guided us meticulously on the sequence of eating each dish. It was an educational experience. Our next stop, Hyderabad, is famous for its own version of biryani, and one of the best places to try this is at Shadab Hotel, whose boisterous ambience adds to the dining experience. In Lucknow, the famous galouti kebab was remarkable for its melting-like-butter quality, while in Chennai, I would select the dosa at Saravana Bhabhan for its consistency.
Above Galouti kebab being made in Lucknow (Photo: Black Sheep Restaurants)
Galouti kebab being made in Lucknow (Photo: Black Sheep Restaurants)
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What are your top 3 tips for a foodie who is travelling to India for the first time?
Do a lot of research before travelling—read about the culture and the plurality of India’s food in bona fide travel websites or journals, instead of relying on social media influencers.
Ask a friend who’s Indian or has been to India for insider tips—some of the best eateries are also the best-kept secrets.
Practice some caution—eat at a place where lots of locals are eating, don’t buy fruits that have been cut and kept in the open, drink bottled water and don’t venture out during the hottest part of the day.
What are some common misconceptions about India, particularly relating to F&B, that you wish more people would be aware of?
Some think that Indian food can be too spicy or too rich, but there is a slew of Indian dishes which can be mild, light on the stomach and yet flavourful at the same time. You just have to go out and try it. Also, each state has its own unique cuisine—India has 28 states, so you can imagine the sheer range of dishes.
A lot of people share negative things about India—such as street vendors not maintaining proper hygiene—to get some likes from the “shock” factor. But there are many positive sides as well which might go unnoticed. So, my advice to people visiting India is to stay away from social media and experience the country through a fresh lens.
Above Inside 1135AD, a heritage restaurant in Jaipur (Photo: Black Sheep Restaurants)
Inside 1135AD, a heritage restaurant in Jaipur (Photo: Black Sheep Restaurants)
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Fine dining or street food: which style of Indian food resonates with you more?
Home food is my first choice. And between street food and fine dining, I prefer the former. There’s beauty, refinement and finesse required in street food too, be it the paper-thin flaky puffs of pani puri or the crispiness of dosa. And then there’s the authentic immersive experience of street food. You have to immerse yourself in the ambience of the street vendor’s stall—almost like a chef’s table at a fine-dining restaurant.
What according to you is an underrated food city in India?
I would say there are two: Benaras and Haridwar [both riverside cities in the state of Uttar Pradesh]. The simplicity and the refinement of the vegetarian cuisine in these two cities are out of this world. Tucking into a plate of hot rabdi and jalebi (milk dessert with a sweet crispy dough) while sitting on the banks of the Ganges is not just a gastronomic experience, it’s an emotion.
Above Tea seller in Jaipur, India (Photo: Black Sheep Restaurants)
Tea seller in Jaipur, India (Photo: Black Sheep Restaurants)
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Where do you want to visit on your next trip to India?
The northeast of India. It’s a relatively less explored region and it’s rich in its distinct culture and cuisine.
As someone who was brought up in Bengal and Gujarat, which dishes remind you of home?
Among Gujrati food, I miss dhokla and dabeli [both are savoury snacks], I could eat those every day. And among Bengali food, there are many that take me home: kosha mangsho [mutton curry], alu dom and luchi [puffed bread and potato], alu posto [potato with poppy seeds] … the list is never-ending.
You’re passionate about sharing the royal and warm hospitality of India with people in Hong Kong. In your opinion, what sets India apart in these aspects?
Hospitality is in our DNA and it has been so for thousands of years. Indians are open-hearted, warm, welcoming people, and we have finessed the art of hospitality from ancient times. Nowadays, people think that the markers of hospitality—at least in a restaurant setting—can be found in luxury: how expensive the cutlery is or how expansive the wine list is. But true hospitality goes beyond material aspects, it’s in the mindset and the genuine desire to be welcoming.
And how are you bringing this hospitality to Prince and the Peacock?
It’s in all the small details, not just the food but also the feeling that you get once you’ve entered the space. We want people to instantly feel a sense of belonging. We are not aiming for exclusivity, instead, we want to give all people a warm, hearty welcome.
Suchetana Mukhopadhyay is the Digital Content Manager for Tatler Hong Kong. In this role, she leads all digital editorial and branded content on Tatler Hong Kong’s website, from brainstorming story ideas with the writers to editing and publishing the articles, and from managing the overall content flow to driving search engine optimisation. She also leads the beauty content at Tatler Hong Kong and across the region, and is always looking to champion diversity through her articles. She was previously with Cedar Hong Kong and Gafencu, and freelanced for the South China Morning Post, Campaign Asia-Pacific, CNN and more. Contact her here.
