Cover The rooftop at The Barcelona Edition, located in the heart of El Born (Photo: Edition Hotels)

The best places to eat, drink and explore in Barcelona's charming El Born neighbourhood

There's no shortage of beautiful neighbourhoods in Barcelona, but there's something about El Born that never ceases to charm with its mazes of cobblestone streets, sun-kissed courtyards, with lively bars and restaurants at every turn. 

In this 48 hour guide to exploring El Born, you'll find some of the best places to eat in Barcelona—including a neighbourhood vermuteria where you can graze and people watch for hours, casual tapas in a quiet alleyway, and a contemporary restaurant that puts a cool spin on traditional Catalan cuisine. 

See also: How to spend 48 hours in Bali: Canggu, Seseh, Pererenan and Tabanan

Day One: Checking in, and diving into local flavours

Check in at The Barcelona Edition

The lobby at The Barcelona Edition is serene and energetic at the same time. Walnut-panelled walls, soaring ceilings and a flood of natural light create a wonderful softness—and then there's the buzz and excitement of well-heeled guests popping in and out, or having a drink at the bar, that's become characteristic of Edition Hotels. 

The lobby furniture is inspired by original designs from the likes of some of Spain's most revered artists, including Antoni Gaudí and Salvador Dalí.

The rooms are bright and airy, with cloud-like beds and toiletries by Le Labo. The Loft Suite, however, is the room you want to book. It has plenty seating and lounging space and great city views—especially from the shower and bathtub, where floor-to-ceiling windows look over the neighbourhood rooftops.

The Studio Terrace is lovely as well, featuring a balcony with wooden decking, sun loungers and a living wall lush with greenery and bougainvillea. 

Easily one of the best things about The Barcelona Edition is its location in the heart of the popular El Born district, and we've curated this guide so that everything is within walking distance of the hotel. 

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Above Bathtub with a view (Photo: The Barcelona Edition)
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Above A sculptural staircase in the hotel lobby (Photo: The Barcelona Edition)

Aperitivo at Bodega del Born 

Get straight into it with a pour of vermouth at Bodega del Born, a blink-and-you’ll-miss-it vermouth bar in a nondescript alley about seven minutes' walk from The Barcelona Edition. It’s owned and operated by a lovely local couple, who are enthusiastic about sharing their knowledge about vermouth - which is great if you’re a novice like me. They've also got a lovely selection of snacks, like anchovies and jamon, which are perfect for working up an appetite before dinner. 

Dinner at Vermuteria Santa Caterina 

Vermuteria Santa Caterina is a wonderful neighbourhood bar and restaurant. The later into the evening it gets, the more locals pile in and gather around the tables—which are fashioned from old barrels—to enjoy rounds of drinks and plates to graze on. The grilled sardines, leek croquets, garlic prawns and potato chips topped with a briny mix of olives, anchovies and tinned mussels, were particularly delicious. You could easily spend hours here. 

Drinks at Especiarium 

If, like me, you prefer savoury over sweet, head to Especiarium. The drinks here are spice-focused, crafted with ferments and syrups that are all made in-house. You’ll find unusual ingredients like fennel, palo santo wood, cardamom and amchoor, among others. Try the Curryquiri, made with a mix of white rums infused with curry, or the Tajin, another rum-based cocktail with sherry and Moroccan spices. 

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Above Fried sardines and vermouth at Vermuteria Santa Catarina (Photo: Coco Marett)
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Above Vermuteria Santa Catarina (Photo: Coco Marett)

Day two: Art, Santa Caterina market and rooftop drinks

Visit The Picasso Museum 

Just a short, breezy walk from The Barcelona Edition is The Picasso Museum. Pablo Picasso moved to Barcelona at 14 years old, and returned frequently throughout his life—so it makes sense that the city has a shrine to the Spanish artist’s works. You won't really find his masterpieces, but that's not necessarily a bad thing. Instead, you'll get up close and personal with his earlier works and how he came to find his style. 

Plus, what really makes The Picasso Museum unique is its setting. The museum is spread over five stone palaces, connected by a courtyard with gothic archways and tropical flora.  

Visit Moco Barcelona

If you're not arted out, this is next door to The Picasso Museum. Moco—the name is a portmanteau of modern and contemporary, which is fitting. This independent museum is housed in Palacio Cervelló, a 16th Century palace on Calle de Montcada, which makes for a fun juxtaposition to the collection of contemporary works by the likes of Kaws, Damien Hirst and David LaChapelle. 

 

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Above A large Kaws statue in the courtyard of Moco Barcelona (Photo: Moco)

Late lunch at Mercat de Santa Caterina 

This bustling market is conveniently located next door to The Barcelona Edition. Explore and graze on exquisite cheeses, jamon and other cured meats at Cansaladeria i Xarcuteria Josep Vilà,  or pick up olives, tinned fish and other Spanish goods at stalls like Rafols, Rosa Marina and Torres.

I highly recommend pulling up a seat at Bar Joan, which has been around since 1977 and hasn’t changed much since. Expect friendly service, delicious tapas and good wine. 

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Photo 1 of 2 Inside Mercat Santa Catarina in Barcelona (Photo: Mercat Santa Catarina)
Photo 2 of 2 Mercat Santa Catarina is next door to The Barcelona Edition (Photo: Mercat Santa Catarina)

Wander the artisans’ quarter 

In the Middle Ages, El Born was home to the city’s artisans and craft workers. Today, you’ll find boutiques selling a myriad of beautiful, locally-made products—from ceramics to leather goods. 

Some personal favourites include Paka, a brilliantly curated vintage clothing store; Iriarte Iriarte, which sells locally handcrafted leather goods; and Ivori, a chic fashion store that sells beautifully made basics. For homewares, Chandal is a colourful treasure trove of ceramics, textiles and books. 

Drinks at The Rooftop bar 

Throughout the day, you’ll find guests on The Barcelona Edition’s rooftop, baking away under the Spanish sun. But by late afternoon, the Rooftop Bar becomes the place to go among locals and visitors alike. The terrace is decorated with tropical, aromatic plants and bougainvillea, with comfortable sofas, armchairs and sunbeds to lounge for hours. It’s the perfect place to watch the sun set over a sea of the city’s rooftops.

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Above The Rooftop at The Barcelona Edition (Photo: Edition Hotels)

Dinner at Veraz 

Veraz, located on the ground floor of The Barcelona Edition, truly took me by surprise. The dining room is a seductive space where plush, rounded banquettes are shrouded by plants. 

The menu is proudly product-driven. Some highlights include red prawns caught in the Spanish seaside town, Roses; meat from The Barcelona Edition’s go-to butcher at Mercat de Santa Caterina next door, and sustainably-caught fish—the turbot was perfectly cooked, genuinely one of the best pieces of fish I’ve ever eaten. 

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Above Veraz, the restaurant at The Barcelona Edition (Photo: Veraz)
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Above Produce-focused cuisine at Veraz (Photo: Veraz)

Day three: One last bite

Lunch at Espai Puntal 

Helmed by a team of talented young chefs, Espai Puntal offers a contemporary take on Catalan cuisine. There's obvious pride in the provenance of their produce—their seafood, which is insanely fresh, is sourced from local family-run fishery, La Platjeta—and the curated wine selection is top notch. Look out for seasonal specials on the menu. 

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Above Creative Catalan cuisine at Espai Puntal (Photo: Espai Puntal)
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Above Espai Puntal restaurant in El Born, Barcelona (Photo: Espai Puntal)

Coco Marett is a writer and editor who grew up between Hong Kong and Melbourne. She currently heads the travel section for Tatler Asia, and manages the Tatler Travel account on Instagram. She is known for her features on unique, under-the-radar properties and destinations. She's also known for her in-depth interviews that paint a refreshingly candid portrait of influential figures across various industries —from artists to political figures, CEOs to celebrity chefs. Follow her on Instagram @cocomarett