How to spend 48 hours in Ho Chi Minh City

Dinner at Nen Light 

Chef Summer Le makes a point of showcasing unique local ingredients in her restaurant, Nen Light—named after a type of wild garlic native to Vietnam.

The interior is dark and atmospheric, with windows looking out to a dimly lit garden—setting a theatrical backdrop for Le’s seven- to nine-course menu, through which she tells the stories of Vietnam's unique agricultural history and traditions. In June, for example, she highlighted that cows are used mainly for farmwork in Vietnam, causing the meat to be tough. Because of this, steak takes a back seat while “odd” bits like oxtail, tongue, tendon, stomach and shank are cherished.

...or do a street food tour on scooters with Saigon Kiss 

If you’re in the mood for street food instead, leave it to the experts at Saigon Kiss, a tour group run by  a very cool collective of women. Ride shotgun on their scooters as they take you around some of Ho Chi Minh City’s lesser-known street-food haunts to taste some truly authentic Vietnamese dishes. There’s even a vegan tour for plant- based travellers.

Cocktails at Yugen Bar 

Hidden in an alleyway, this heavily Japanese-influenced bar with large circular windows is a serene space for a tipple. Bartender Dat Nguyen has mastered the art of a well-made classic cocktail, along with a few edgy signatures, which he serves from his long wooden counter. 

Morning coffee at Phường Cà Phê

Walk—or hop on one of the bikes Hôtel des Arts Saigon has available to rent—and head to Phu’Ò’ng Cà Phê. About five minutes from the hotel, this café has taken over a classic, converted Saigon townhouse. The courtyard is the highlight, where you can sip your coffee under a shady willow tree, listening to the sounds of a babbling pond.

Tatler tip: When we say “sip”, we mean it—Vietnamese coffee is much stronger than your average espresso.

Art and history at Saigon Museum of Fine Arts 

It seems only fitting that the Saigon Museum of Fine Arts is something of a work of art itself. The elegant 1929 colonial-era, daffodil yellow building has retained many of its original features— colourful tiling, stained glass and ornate bannisters and verandas. It’s also home to Saigon’s oldest working elevators—if that’s the sort of thing that excites you.

Its collection is vast and varied. Contemporary art—much of which is inspired by the Vietnam War—sits alongside pieces dating back to the 4th century, including Funan- era (1st to 6th century CE) sculptures of Vishnu, the Buddha and other revered figures carved out of wood and stone; and art dating from the 7th century to the 14th century by the Cham, an indigenous people of central Vietnam. 

Mediterranean flavours at Quince 

Housed in a refurbished colonial-style house with bistro-style furniture, seductive lighting and a copper counter that faces the open kitchen, this modern Mediterranean restaurant serves a range of charcoal-grilled, wood- fired and oven-baked dishes with a touch of Asian flavour—like a spiced lamb loin with labneh and chili butter, and burnt broccoli with a whipped miso tahini.

Cocktails in an opium-den-turned-speakeasy 

Upstairs from Quince, Madame Kew serves seasonal artisanal cocktails in an opium den-chic space—fun fact, it used to be one; think draping silks, dark wood and oversized artworks. To drink, the Kew 37 is a too-easy-to- quaff blend of lemon grass-infused gin and cognac, passion fruit syrup, lime juice and a dash of sparkling wine.

Pre-flight pamper at Le Spa des Artistes

It’d be a shame to stay at Hôtel des Arts Saigon without paying a visit to its multi-award-winning spa, Le Spa des Artistes. We are fans of the Ghassoul Detox Wrap, a tightening and hydrating treatment that sees you wrapped in a natural clay said to break up deposits of toxins in your body.

Hum, Cafe & Restaurant

Head to vegetarian restaurant Hum Café & Restaurant for a light bite after some five- star pampering. A majority of Buddhists in Vietnam follow a vegetarian diet on the first and 15th days of the month, following the lunar calendar—so plant-based options in the country are exceptional. This charming restaurant is in a three-storey villa, with a leafy courtyard featuring lotus-filled ponds.

Order the absolutely moreish, thinly sliced, fried lotus root with sesame salt, and the skillet of banana flower in a rich tomato sauce. The mango with sticky rice for dessert is a must. 

NOW READ 

Jeremy Jauncey on how social media transformed travel, and his role in the upcoming Tatler Best of Asia event

George Town, Penang: What to do, see and eat on a short getaway

Food trip to India, guided by chef Palash Mitra of Michelin fame