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Shelter Pererenan
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Our guide to the best restaurants and bars in Bali if you're planning a weekend in the areas of Canggu, Seseh and Pererenan
A trip to Bali is never a bad idea, and which part of the island you choose to stay in will ultimately determine what kind of holiday you'll have. Especially if you've got a short window of time—say, 48 hours—you'll want to choose wisely.
Canggu has always been a favourite, but as it's become increasingly crowded in recent years, it's worth checking out some of its surrounding neighbourhoods. For this guide, we turn to the neighbourhoods of Tabanan, Seseh and Pererenan, with an itinerary that's equal parts wholesome an indulgent—from a vintage-inspired brunch spot to chic cocktail bars and then some.
Day 1
Check in at Nirjhara
The word nirjhara is Sanskrit for waterfall—which is fitting, as this boutique hideaway sits directly opposite one. It’s also surrounded by cascading rivers, rice paddies and tropical jungle. Yet despite its wild surroundings, it’s just a short 20-minute drive from the lively neighbourhoods of Canggu, Pererenan and Seseh.
Nirjhara’s 25 villas, including seven elevated canopy suites, are dressed in timber, rattan and stone sourced from across the archipelago. The hotel encourages an authentic, slow approach to Bali—every guest gets a bike to explore the neighbourhood, private surf lessons can be arranged and its restaurant, Ambu, sources ingredients from local farms and producers.
Dinner at Bar Vera
There’s something sexy about Bar Vera, where red earth-hued walls and oversized plants nail the “tropical brutalism” aesthetic. It was opened by chef Benjamin Cross, founder of Mason (one of Bali’s most popular restaurants), who describes Bar Vera as “a new generation Parisian bistro in Pererenan”. Expect cocktails as seductive as the setting, and dishes that merge French and Balinese flavours.
We love the goat cheese beignets with wild honey and sage, and beef tartare with sambal for a kick.
Natural wines at Mosto
Cruise over to Canggu for a post-dinner drink at Bali’s first natural wine bar, Mosto. The vibe is always right here, and there are more than 70 labels to choose from, including Lazarus Pulp, the country’s first pet-nat produced by the group that opened Mosto (it also runs Da Maria, Motel Mexicola and Luigi’s).
Craving something sweet? Pair your wine with a dessert—we love the killer chocolate terrine with extra virgin olive oil crème fraiche topped with salt flakes.
A night cap at Bar Souvenir
Bar Souvenir is a blink-and-you’ll-miss-it 15-seater bar down an unassuming laneway in Canggu. Perch at the counter and watch the bartenders at work, or gather in the corner nook designed for cosy conversations. The menu is decidedly small and intentional, with a curated selection of wines and cocktails—try the Penpal, a highball apéritif with gin and rosella kombucha.
Tatler tip: If you’re feeling peckish, try the cured meat by Jono’s, a local butcher crafting cold cuts from high-welfare, heritage breed pigs.
Day 2
Morning surf
Pick up a surfboard and let Nirjhara’s instructors teach you the basics of surfing on Kedungu beach, located a stone’s throw from the hotel. Not your first time? Experienced surfers can hit the breaks at Canggu’s Echo Beach instead.
Brunch at Neighbourhood Food Seseh
Neighbourhood Food in Canggu was a hit, and now its second outpost has arrived in Seseh. At this vintage-inspired diner, you’ll find delicate blue-and-white china, tables lined with ochre-hued tiles and doily decor in the windows.
But this is not your grandma’s café—Neighbourhood Food’s menu is a creative and refreshing take on brunch favourites. Think fluffy farmer cheese pancakes with compote and sour cream, and a mango chia sago with coconut yoghurt, passion fruit & toasted coconut. They also make some very mean sandwiches, so come hungry.
Pampering at Cloud Spa
Soft colours, light and airy interiors ... Cloud Spa is worth a stop for a dreamy few hours of pampering. We love the anti-cellulite hot volcanic wrap, the tension-release massage and their face-lifting facial. Can’t decide? The Cloud Glow package includes a 50-minute massage of your choice, plus a 40-minute lifting facial using products from Spanish skincare brand Germaine de Capuccini.
Sunset drinks at Skool Kitchen
Did you think we'd serve up a Bali itinerary that doesn't include the perfect sundowner? No chance.
Skool Kitchen sits above The Lawn—another Canggu mainstay—and while it's better known for its dining, it's also a dreamy spot for drinks while admiring those legendary Bali sunsets. There's an excellent selection of wines and cocktails—try their signature Skool Martini, which adds a dash of pineapple to the classic recipe.
Dinner at Shelter Pererenan
Everybody on the island is talking about Shelter. And you know what, we get it—island-inspired architecture in a verdant lot in Pererenan, surrounded by exotic plants. It’s the Bali dream. Helmed by chef Steve Moore, the menu highlights Middle Eastern and Mediterranean flavours, with many dishes prepared over an open fire.
Don’t skip the BBQ octopus with whipped potato and bottarga, or the truffle straciatella with coffee sourdough crisp and Javanese honey.
Tatler tip: Bookings are a must. The main dining room is lively and filled with Bali’s fashionable crowd, but if you're after a more intimate experience, reserve one of the outdoor tables.
Day 3
Sunrise Ride
Forget the loud music and flashing lights of your spin class back home. Instead, hop on Nirjhara’s complimentary bikes and set off to explore the hotel’s tropical surroundings, pedalling through secret back roads and cutting across quaint villages.
Indonesian cuisine at Ulekan
Indonesian restaurant Ulekan delivers a contemporary twist on the traditional warung—a typically small, family-run eatery—in a serene, open-air setting. Located on a tree-lined street away from the busier parts of Canggu, the menu features Indonesian favourites from gado-gado salad to mouth-watering beef rendang and ayam betutu.
Organic Bali-grown ingredients are used, while the use of MSG, artifical additives and palm oil are banned.
Coco Marett is a writer and editor who grew up between Hong Kong and Melbourne. She currently heads the travel section for Tatler Asia, and manages the Tatler Travel account on Instagram. She is known for her features on unique, under-the-radar properties and destinations. She's also known for her in-depth interviews that paint a refreshingly candid portrait of influential figures across various industries —from artists to political figures, CEOs to celebrity chefs. Follow her on Instagram @cocomarett
