Hotel review: Grand Hotel Tremezzo, an Art Nouveau palace on the lake with La Dolce Vita charm

We arrive to a flurry of attentiveness from smartly dressed staff who promptly usher us up the steps and onto the elevator upwards to the main entrance.

Entering the grand lobby, I am struck by the richness of the decor. Original parquet wooden floors form elaborate patterns underfoot, while plush red velvet chesterfields and ornate white high ceiling frescoes, held up by stately marble columns, adorn the spacious room. Gilded accents—tables, lamps, even picture frames—add a touch of opulence, and tall vases filled with roses complete the picture. 

Yet for all its opulence, the hotel avoids any stuffiness. Playful touches abound: a gummy bear station by the elevator (more popular with adults than children, surprisingly) and the T Bar’s vibrantly mismatched sofas all hint at a place that doesn’t take itself too seriously.

While waiting for our room, we dine at T Pizza, the hotel’s casual restaurant with a prime location overlooking the heated Flowers Pool. The view itself is postcard-worthy: the iconic Grigne mountains, a serene park path leading to a scenic viewpoint where the towns of Varenna and Bellagio beckon from a distance.

T Pizza perfectly reflects the relaxed atmosphere of Grand Hotel Tremezzo. Here, guests ditch the formalities for a more laidback dress code, opting to dine in resortwear and athleisure. Order an aperitif—like an Aperol spritz or Negroni Sbaligato—while you wait for its Naples-trained pizzaioli (pizza makers) to get to work. Opting for a classic, we choose the Pomodoro—fresh tomato and basil pasta—and the Tremezzina, an umami-rich, creamy combination of smoked provola, ricotta, zucchini flowers, anchovies, and aromatic herbs.

With sunshine finally gracing Lake Como after two days of rain, the afternoon is an ideal introduction to our stay at Grand Hotel Tremezzo.

There are no bad views at Grand Hotel Tremezzo. The property offers a variety of luxurious accommodations, with 67 rooms and 17 suites overlooking the park or lake.

We check into Suite Aurelia, a Signature Suite named after the owner’s family member. At a spacious 50 square metres, the suite features a unique blend of classic and contemporary styles. Period furnishings like oil paintings, baroque mirrors, and lamps are juxtaposed with modern touches—think flat-screen TVs cleverly hidden within frames or rising from chests at the foot of the plush king-size bed.

The best feature in the room? The two balconies which look out to the lake, mountains, and the quaint Bellagio village.

One can be assured of a fantastic sleep here, thanks to its “Dream Sleep” combination composed of luxury Belrami wood fibre satin weave sheets, a pillowy mattress, and a feather mattress topper. 

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The hotel’s signature Aqua Como 1910 toiletries elevate the experience further. These are scented with a unique fragrance, comprising floral scents inspired by the hotel’s lush park grounds and the fresh lake breeze. 

Unlike any other luxury hotel we’ve stayed in, Grand Hotel Tremezzo leaves its signature fragrance in the bathroom for guests to experience–a touch we so appreciate, leading to a purchase of the perfume at the hotel boutique. 

For those who share a love for the scent, or simply want to bring a memory of the hotel home with you, the items featured in the hotels, from fragrances and luxury linens to Murano glassware, are also available for purchase online on Sense of Lake, the hotel’s lifestyle e-commerce store.

The hotel caters to different preferences with a variety of suites. Suite Emilia offers a modern, massive space (900 square metres) with a steam room and a serene pastel-toned sitting area. Suite Greta boasts a high-ceilinged living-dining room and a vast terrace with sun loungers. For a touch of romance, rooftop suites feature private jacuzzi pools.

For the ultimate luxury experience, guests can book the 16th-century Villa Solo Cabiati, located steps from the hotel. This grand residence features original terrazzo floors, frescoes by the school of Tiepolo, and hand-crafted Murano chandeliers.  A living museum in itself, the villa houses six suites, each with an en-suite bathroom, sitting area, and private pool.  Antiques, tapestries, museum-quality paintings, and delicate ceramics adorn the space, further enhancing its historical splendour. The villa also boasts immaculate arabesque gardens and comes with a dedicated staff—including a butler, housekeepers, chambermaid, and a private chef—to cater to your every whim and fancy.

When one thinks of Grand Hotel Tremezzo, an image will inevitably come to mind: its crowning jewel of the lakefront, water-on-water floating pool that graces the bucket lists of many. Trust that this is a pool like no other. It’s accessible via wooden bridges from the hotel’s sun-soaked lounging deck on its private beach–Lake Como’s only–and its Giacomo al Lago cocktail bar. Surrounded by orange and white beanbags, it’s a picture-perfect spot for a refreshing dip with an unobstructed lake view. 

For those seeking a serene escape, the Flowers Pool is a quiet spot with elegant travertine surrounds and delicate stone tiling. Bag a prime spot under one of its signature orange and white parasols, and sip on a tipple as you people watch. 

The third pool is the indoor T Spa Infinity Pool, with a relaxation lounge overlooking the lake, outdoor jacuzzi, bubble beds, jets and a swan neck fountain.

Speaking of the spa, it’s located next to the main hotel in the 18th-century Villa Emilia, and is a wellness destination in itself, specialising in anti-stress and rebalancing treatments.

Five serene treatment rooms offer a comprehensive menu, from rejuvenating facials and massages to full-body rituals and invigorating scrubs.  Couples can indulge in a dedicated spa suite designed for shared pampering.

Embrace deep relaxation in the Italian hammam, created from white Lasa marble and features a heated scrub plinth, and a refreshing water blade shower. The spa’s humid area boasts a traditional sauna, an aromatic steam bath, a Mediterranean sauna with a view, a salt relaxation room, and a whirlpool.  Between treatments, unwind in the relaxation areas with herbal teas and healthy snacks, or enjoy a refreshing dip in the aforementioned adults-only pool.

For those seeking additional wellness options, T Spa also offers yoga sessions and personalised training. Additionally, the on-site hair salon and nail bar ensure you’re prepped and polished for any occasion.

For the adrenaline enthusiasts, a world of action awaits. Perfect your backhand on clay tennis courts with expert coaching, or push yourself to new limits in the state-of-the-art T Fitness gym.

Want to explore the lake or the surrounding landscape? The hotel concierge can arrange anything your heart desires—be it paddleboarding for an invigorating workout on the water, or teeing off for a picturesque round of golf. For those who prefer to explore on land, the hotel offers horseback riding and bicycle rentals, while adventurous spirits can embark on a kayaking expedition.

At Grand Hotel Tremezzo, there’s nothing you can’t do. Imagine cruising the lake in a vintage Alfa Romeo, soaring over the Alps in a seaplane, or embarking on a scenic journey aboard the Bernina Express Train. For fashion enthusiasts, a shopping spree in Milan awaits, with the chance to purchase coveted pieces from renowned couturiers, shoemakers, and milliners.

Of course, no stay in Lake Como is complete without a water excursion. Hop on one of the hotel’s four vintage speedboats. Our ride is led by boat captain Carlo, who takes us on a visit to some of the lake’s most iconic villas including the Villa Balbiano in House of Gucci, Villa del Balbianello in Casino Royale and Star Wars: Episode II, and Villa La Cassinella, recently shown in Succession. Carlo, with his extensive knowledge and experience, provides fascinating details about the architecture and history of each villa.

For those seeking a more independent adventure, Grand Hotel Tremezzo offers self-drive motorboat rentals. Explore the charming villages dotting the shoreline, discover hidden waterfalls cascading behind quaint stone bridges, and lose yourself in the narrow back streets and inviting cafes—all in your own time. 

The hotel is home to five restaurants and bars, with a highlight being La Terrazza Gualtiero Marchesi. The restaurant pays homage to the late chef Gualtiero Marchesi, who is often lauded as the founder of modern Italian cuisine. A fixture at the hotel before his passing in 2017, Marchesi was the first Italian chef to obtain three Michelin stars and was praised internationally for his mix of traditional cooking and modern technique.

The menu honours the late chef’s legacy by putting his well-known dishes front and centre. Our meal is an exploration of his brilliance. We savour his signature cold spaghetti salad, generously crowned with caviar and chives, and the textural delight of Trucioli pasta—where ribbons of handmade pasta are tossed in a buttery saffron sauce studded with crispy black pepper rice grains.

Other standouts included the Egg in an Egg, an ingenious deconstructed egg creation, where the egg is removed from its shell, steamed, returned and topped with caviar, and the classic Fillet Rossini. To conclude this decadent experience, the Ovis mollis mille-feuille—a light and refreshing dessert of mascarpone mousse and wild berries—provides the perfect sweet ending.

The experience is complemented by the restaurant setting itself, which is set on an open terrace and faces the mountains, offering stunning sunset views. Each table also features the perfectly imperfect pattern mouth-blown glasses from Carlo Moretti, one of the last remaining designer glass factories in Murano, Venice. Melding centuries-old glassmaking tradition with contemporary aesthetics, these irregular-shaped, numbered and signed pieces add a touch of Murano mastery to the dining experience.

No stay at Grand Hotel Tremezzo is complete without a visit to its sister property, Passalacqua, located in the town of Moltrasio. Recognised as the World’s Number One Hotel on the 2023 50 Best Hotels list, Passalacqua offers a distinct charm compared to its counterpart. The property’s atmosphere is akin to a luxurious family home; a deliberate design choice by the De Santis family who restored the historic residence.
 
With only 24 rooms and suites spread across three buildings—the grand Villa, the ancient Palazzina, and the romantic Casa al Lago—Passalacqua exudes an intimate atmosphere. Beautiful gardens are spread across eight terraces, leading down to the waters of Lake Como. Mature trees and stately palms frame the vistas, creating a sense of deep tranquillity.

For all of its maximalist, gilded grandeur, there’s something so deeply unfussy about Passalacqua. This is especially evident in the restaurant, decorated like an Italian aristocrat’s home with its original frescoes and gilded mirrors,19th-century portraits and Murano chandeliers, and Il Bronzetto light fittings. 

Where its welcoming informality is more striking is its kitchen with its family home feel and open-door policy. Here, guests are free to wander in and out, as they would in a friend’s home. 

Ingredients are sourced daily from the on-site gardens and local farms, allowing the chefs to create elevated home-style dishes. Our own meal consisted of a classic eggplant parmigiana, a tableside presentation of veal Milanese, delectable tagliatelle with white duck ragu and a tarte tatin made with sticky caramelised apples, a crisp puff pastry and served with light-as-air chantilly cream.

Michelin-starred chef Viviana Varese prioritises provenance, crafting elevated home-style dishes with ingredients picked daily from the on-site gardens and groves, or sourced from local farmers and fishermen. Feeling adventurous? Select your own fresh produce from the garden, and have the chefs create a personalised dish for you. Masterclasses are also available for those who wish to delve deeper into culinary magic.

To make the most of your afternoon, check in for a spa day.  Nestled within a hidden subterranean passageway excavated in the 18th century, the spa boasts a 300-year-old tunnel transformed into a tranquil relaxation area. Guests enter through a grand hall featuring granite structures and chandeliers, then proceed through a 50-metre tunnel lit by lamps. The tunnel leads to a dark fir sauna, a grey marble steam bath, and an onyx shower, all of which naturally fit into the Moltrasio stone surroundings.

Further enhancing the sense of peace is a spacious atrium facing an Italian garden terrace, now a charming tearoom perfect for moments of deep calm. 

The new 18-metre indoor pool resides in an ancient greenhouse, featuring a stunning Palladian marble mosaic, includes a whirlpool and offers breathtaking views of the Italian garden designed by Emilio Trabella, making it an ideal haven during cooler seasons.

Conclude the day by visiting Lake Como in style. Passalacqua offers private tours on its vintage wooden crafts, classic Riva boats, and speedboats. Its captains can tailor the itinerary, whether it’s visiting a secluded restaurant, touring a renowned villa, or finding a hidden swimming spot. You can even arrange for an onboard picnic or water sports activities. The options, just like Grand Hotel Tremezzo, are endless. 

The two hotels–while different in their guest experiences and atmosphere–carry the touch of family-owned Italian hospitality far into the future, welcoming guests with the promise of dolce far niente (the sweetness of doing nothing). And at either of these hotels, you can do just that. Whether it’s nursing an aperitif by a floating pool at Grand Hotel Tremezzo, or having your knots kneaded out in a marble hammam at Passalacqua, all signs point to la dolce vita. The good life. 

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