Based in Berlin for the past year, author and 2016 Gen.T honouree Amanda Lee Koe shares what makes the Grey City so special and inspirational to her
With its thriving arts scene, vibrant culture and tantalising gastronomy, it’s no surprise that Berlin is a popular place to visit. For Singapore-born author Amanda Lee Koe, it’s no different—being based in the city for the past year, 2016 Gen.T honouree has quickly made the Grey City her second home. From rustic and romantic restaurants to feminist and queer-centric bookshops, there’s so much to explore within the German capital, Lee Koe shares some of her favourite places to be at in the city.
In case you missed it: What Matters To Me: Award-Winning Author Amanda Lee Koe

Above Hermannplatz, the kick‐off point for the Internationalist Queer Pride march
The best thing about being in Berlin...
Rejigging my breakneck need for speed into a calmer and saner pace, where I have more time to enjoy lake picnics and behold magenta sunsets.
My favourite restaurant so far is...
Samowar, a rustic and romantic 1970s establishment decked out in candlelight, pastel pink tablecloths and heavy bronze busts, right next to Schloss Charlottenburg. You’ll feel like you’re on an ornately decorated Rainer Werner Fassbinder film set, as accommodating white‐gloved servers in traditional outfits offer a traditional tea service in Khokhloma-style painted bowls and trays replete with jams and biscuits, with home-style Russian classics such as shashlik, blini and kvas.

Above Samowar restaurant
A great spot for coffee where I enjoy writing is...
Schwarzes Café on Kantstraße, where you can pick between a sunlit courtyard terrace and a darkly moody interior, depending on your vibe for the day. I perk up with a 200 mean Americano, blast an ambient playlist and bang on my MacBook undisturbed for several hours, then finish off with one of its myriad house cocktails to cap off the writing session.
My favourite serendipitous discovery is...
A bunch of gorgeous 1930s soft‐core erotic nudes in an unmarked tin box at the Mauerpark flea market!
My apartment is special because...
Jim Jarmusch lived here in the 1990s, when he was a film fellow in the DAAD Artists‐in‐Berlin Program I’m currently part of as a literature fellow. I already know I’ll miss the high ceilings and the relaxed balcony where we have coffee and cigarettes (incidentally, Coffee and Cigarettes is the title of a Jarmusch film) when it’s time to move back to New York.

Above She said bookshop
Clubbing in Berlin is...
A lot more inclusive and consent‐informed than in other cities. Whether in the infamous and cavernous KitKatClub or smaller indie outposts such as OHM, I see people of different ages, body types, abilities—including wheelchair and cane users grooving up the dance floor—classes, sexualities, ethnicities and nationalities vibing with the music and respecting personal boundaries.
My favourite shop is...
She said, a feminist and queer‐centric bookshop in Kreuzberg with an on‐point selection, super‐cute interiors and lots of cool author events.
The best way to spend a morning in Berlin is...
Paddleboarding on one of its many lakes, but if you’re feeling lazy, people‐watching while nursing a coffee or OJ on a café terrace is lovely too.

Above KW Institute for Contemporary Art
Something that moved me was...
The gathering of diverse strangers, commingling bodies and fierce, intersectional speeches at Hermannplatz, the kick‐off point for the Internationalist Queer Pride march.
Don’t leave Berlin without...
Visiting at least one of its art galleries, museums or cultural centres. One of my favourites is KW Institute for Contemporary Art in Mitte—there’s always something thematically fascinating, thoughtfully programmed and intelligently installed going on.
Topics





