Cover Penguin spotting (Image courtesy of Ponant Cruises)
Penguin spotting (Image courtesy of Ponant Cruises)
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Journalist and UN Women Philippines Goodwill Ambassador, Karen Davila, explores the beauty and mystery of Antarctica, Earth’s southernmost continent in this once-in-a-lifetime expedition
The Antarctica itinerary is pretty set, until it isn’t. “As they say,” half-jokes Karen Davila, “when on an expedition, expect the unexpected.” Curve balls of a curious life that the award-winning broadcast journalist apparently lives for. Davila has in fact always genuinely possessed an inborn craving for discovery and an adventurous streak for expedition type travel. “Places,” as she puts it, “where shopping isn’t one’s preoccupation!”
In 2022, Davila visited the North Pole with family and so it was only natural that she wanted to experience its antipode in the southern rigid zone, and where there exists so much more wildlife. “I love animals in the wild and find myself in such wonderment understanding the cycle of life—or at least trying to,” says the adventurist, who can now count both poles as destinations she’s struck off her bucket list. This time, however, Davila and her husband, DJ Sta. Ana, vacationed sans kids, and instead, rallied their venturesome friends to accompany them on this once-in-a-lifetime experience.
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Above Karen Davila and husband DJ Sta. Ana were joined by friends, including Derek Ramsay and Ellen Adarna (Image courtesy of Karen Davila)
Above The Philippine contingent (Image courtesy of Karen Davila)
Karen Davila and husband DJ Sta. Ana were joined by friends, including Derek Ramsay and Ellen Adarna (Image courtesy of Karen Davila)
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Embarking on an Antarctic cruise is an unparalleled journey into the heart of pristine wilderness, surrounded by panoramic views of the Southern Ocean’s deep blue expanse and icy landscapes that unfold into surreal masterpieces. For Davila, the Emblematic Antarctica cruise of Ponant was dotted with several memorable stops, from the opening of Melchior Islands where she spotted dozens of seals, to the Danco and Orne Islands—home to penguin colonies, to Hidden Bay, a beautiful cul-de-sac with glacial brash ice, and finally, to the stunning Patagonia Bay, inhabited by the magnificent humpback whale.
On deck, naturalists shared insights into the region’s fragile ecosystem and its resilient inhabitants. Dependent on the expedition cruise line, an Antarctic highlight would surely be a shore excursion to a scientific research station where experts share their work and the challenges of living in such extreme conditions. Such an encounter renders visitors profoundly appreciative of the continent—the fifth largest in the world, bigger than the whole of Europe, and nearly twice that of Australia—and its significance in global climate research and preservation efforts.
Above Ponant’s luxury vessel cruises into Neko Harbour, named for a Scottish whaling boat, the Neko (Image courtesy of Ponant Cruises)
Ponant’s luxury vessel cruises into Neko Harbour, named for a Scottish whaling boat, the Neko (Image courtesy of Ponant Cruises)
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Until one is well into the thrill of the expedition, the available flight paths remain to be quite the commitment. From the Philippines, Davila’s group travelled for over 32 hours—not including stopovers—from Manila to Dubai; Dubai to São Paulo; São Paulo to Buenos Aires (overnight); and finally, to Ushuaia, the southernmost city in the world where most of the vessels headed to Antarctica are docked.
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Subject to one’s desired cruise duration, there are several sail routes and itineraries to choose from. “For first time visitors like myself,” explains Davila, “the most common would be a 12-day trip via the legendary Drake Passage.” Notorious for its massive waves at certain times of the year, this body of water between South America’s Cape Horn, Chile, Argentina, and the South Shetland Islands, ironically, is the shortest route to the Antarctic Peninsula if you don’t take a private plane to one of the islands. “When crossing the Drake Passage,” Davila asserts, “take your Bonamine. It doesn’t matter how calm they claim it to be, I didn’t take the risk.”
While most opt to explore the peninsula for seven to eight days, the group settled on a 10-night expedition, including the two days it takes to traverse Drake Passage from Ushuaia. “Both days were used for relaying passenger safety, understanding the landscape, choosing your gear, learning to clean your boots, and physical testing for those who wanted to kayak,” explains Davila, “Then on the third day, you open your eyes to the Antarctic Peninsula…and how stunning it is!”
Above Karen Davila with an Antarctic cruise essential: binoculars (Image courtesy of Karen Davila)
Karen Davila with an Antarctic cruise essential: binoculars (Image courtesy of Karen Davila)
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Once navigating the peninsula, the fun begins with each exploratory Zodiac ride and landing revealing towering icebergs sculpted by millennia of wind and waves, glistening under the polar sun or Adélie penguins waddling along, their comical antics a charming welcome to this remote realm. Recalls Davila, “It was an adventure every day as we were out on Zodiacs or making landings twice a day—once in the morning and again after lunch. Days in Antarctica during the summer are quite long with the sun setting at 10 in the evening and it was always a full day; whether we were climbing glaciers, discovering hidden bays, or searching for wildlife.”
A landscape that is both rugged and serene, hiking enthusiasts relished ascending pristine slopes for panoramic vistas that stretch across vast ice fields. Then in more tranquil waters, and for those more adept, kayakers paddled alongside leopard seals and pods of orcas. “Depending on the time of year you choose to go between November and March, the population size and behaviour of animals differ. We went mid-February so we were fortunate to see dozens of breaching humpback whales up close as well as colonies of seals basking on ice floes!” she recounts.
Above An Adélie penguin at dusk (Image: Getty/Posnov)
An Adélie penguin at dusk (Image: Getty/Posnov)
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Evenings saw Davila gathering with friends in cosy lounges, swapping tales of the day’s encounters while savouring gourmet cuisine inspired by local ingredients. Passengers on board will forever have etched in their memories the stunning ice formations bathed in the soft hues of Antarctic twilight, and the sky dancing with the ethereal glow of the Southern Lights, painting the horizon in hues of green and purple. “One of my favourite memories of the trip was crossing the Lemaire Channel, the strait off Antarctica between Kyiv Peninsula and Booth Island,” she fondly reminisces, “This is what many call the “Kodak Gap” as it’s perfect for photographs. Ponant threw a cocktail party in between the mountainous glaciers and we watched the sun set from there. It was just so surreal!”
An Antarctic cruise is not just a voyage; it is a transformative experience, where the sights and sounds of this remote continent leave an indelible mark on all who journey there. Davila cannot help but reflect on her magical sojourn, appreciating that it was such a rare privilege to have witnessed Antarctica’s untouched beauty and to fully comprehend the urgency of conservation efforts.
Above Happy hour cruising the Antarctic peninsula (Image courtesy of Ponant Cruises)
Above Minke whales exiting Neko Harbour (Image courtesy of Ponant Cruises)
Happy hour cruising the Antarctic peninsula (Image courtesy of Ponant Cruises)
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With a newfound reverence for its ecosystem, she departed knowing that she had experienced one of the world’s last great wildernesses in all its breathtaking splendour. “Places like Antarctica are intertwined with our future and the state of how we care for the earth. It’s such a privilege and honour to experience places where humans can’t permanently inhabit. I always come back grateful to have witnessed the creation of the divine. I would visit Antarctica all over again to discover the farther islands like South Georgia and the Falkland Islands, and more,” she concludes, “There is so much more to see, so much to learn.”
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