Cover Snowcapped mountains overlook the picturesque village of Jhong on a crisp and clear morning (Images: Courtesy of Shinta Mani Mustang—a Bensley Collection and Sandra Soriano)
Snowcapped mountains overlook the picturesque village of Jhong on a crisp and clear morning (Images: Courtesy of Shinta Mani Mustang—a Bensley Collection and Sandra Soriano)
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Trekking the last “Forbidden Kingdom” in the Himalayas, Mustang, one of Nepal’s 77 districts, is a profound reminder of the deep connection between spirituality and nature
Nestled amidst the world’s highest mountain ranges of Annapurna and Dhaulagiri, lies the once “Forbidden Kingdom” of Mustang. Stretching towards the Tibetan plateau, the region’s wondrous landscape is characterised by barren cliffs, vast prehistoric rock formations, and dramatic boulder-strewn riverbeds, that are simultaneously beautiful and terrifying.
Once part of a historically significant trade route for caravans transporting precious Himalayan salt, rice, spices, and tea through its harsh terrain, Mustang was closed off to tourists until the early 1990s. Still requiring special permits for entry, the remoteness has rendered it relatively untouched by tourists and modernity. Although technically part of Nepal, today, Mustang remains culturally Tibetan and spiritually Buddhist, with Chortens and ribbons of streaming prayer flags scattered throughout the desert environment.
Above The author takes a breather mid-hike through Lubra (Images: Courtesy of Shinta Mani Mustang—a Bensley Collection and Sandra Soriano)
Above A scene from Marpha (Photo: EliseHassey)
The author takes a breather mid-hike through Lubra (Images: Courtesy of Shinta Mani Mustang—a Bensley Collection and Sandra Soriano)
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As the first luxury hotel in Jomsom, Shinta Mani Mustang—a Bensley Collection—is a sublime Himalayan sanctuary that blends luxurious modern comforts with regional aesthetics. The inspired décor uses yak fur textiles and upcycled drums as side tables, creating a warm and welcoming anchor to the area. Outbuildings are painted in a bold Tibetan pattern to represent wisdom, power, love, and compassion, while an impressive ammonite sculpture nods to the abundant fossils. Even a locally foraged menu is rooted in the resort’s mission to empower and sustain neighbouring communities.
Trekking around Lower Mustang, the guided excursions were designed to immerse us in the scenic beauty of rural life. To help acclimatise at a base elevation of 2,800 metres (9,186 feet), the first day was a gentle—but no less captivating—circuit that brought us to the cobalt-hued Dumba Lake, the iconic Khutsab Terenga Monastery, and finally to the picturesque Thini village. The route took us through tranquil buckwheat fields, blooming apricot trees, and one of the world’s deepest gorges, the Kali Gandaki Valley. We enjoyed a delicious home-cooked Thakkali meal in Marpha, known for its narrow flagstone streets, apple orchards, and craft cider. Our host, Mrs. Kamala, personified Nepalese hospitality, sharing stories of her life as well as village lore.
Amchi medical practitioners still keep an in-depth knowledge of medicinal plants (Images: Courtesy of Shinta Mani Mustang—a Bensley Collection and Sandra Soriano)
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A breathtaking wilderness hike to Chhema Lake, reaching almost 3,700 metres, was the most challenging but equally rewarding day. The pristine trail showcased brilliant alpine panoramas, vibrant rhododendrons in season, and a chance encounter with grazing bharal (or Himalayan blue sheep). Lunch was an unforgettable private picnic overlooking glacial waters, under a lush conifer forest. With not much more than the sounds of fluttering leaves and a few chirping birds, I found the serenity and solitude to be a powerfully meditative experience.
Thick wafts of fragrant incense and elderly monks chanting morning prayers at the Syang temple, was a moving start to the following day. Passing several cave monasteries, we drove along the Panda Khola river gorge to Lubra, one of the last centres of Bon, a spiritual practice from Tibet that predates Buddhism. Once at Lubra, we partook of salty butter tea and received blessings from the Lama at its revered Gompa. Despite glaring erosion from melting glaciers, the hamlet remains firmly rooted, where a deeply weathered 800-year-old walnut tree symbolises its deep physical and spiritual endurance.
Above A majestic Siribull sighting high up in Lubra (Images: Courtesy of Shinta Mani Mustang—a Bensley Collection and Sandra Soriano)
Above The author with friend, Masha Bhuktoyarova (Images: Courtesy of Shinta Mani Mustang—a Bensley Collection and Sandra Soriano)
A majestic Siribull sighting high up in Lubra (Images: Courtesy of Shinta Mani Mustang—a Bensley Collection and Sandra Soriano)
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The optional pilgrimage to Muktinath, sacred to Buddhists and Hindus, justified an early start on our final expedition. Bathing under 108 sacred fountains of ice-cold holy water is believed to wash away sins and bring salvation. Continuing north, we explored Jharkot, traversed suspension bridges to Jhong, and paused for a spectacular rooftop picnic offering a 360-degree view of the snowcapped Nilgiri Himal.
Then in Kagbeni, we delved deeper into Buddhist teachings at the Kag Chode Thupten Samphel Ling Monastery and made sure to pass by the striking “Khenis of Kagbeni” statue. As the gateway to Upper Mustang, this famed ghost eater is said to protect the people and chase evil from the sky, ground, and water.
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I felt most transformed, however, by the powerful hands of Tsewang Gyurme Gurung, a venerated 11th-generation SoRig practitioner. As the local traditional healer or ‘Amchi,’ centuries-old modalities like acupressure, cupping, and reflexology were applied to heal and treat holistically. Drawing from his ancestral knowledge and a wide array of unique herbal ingredients, each session was customised to relieve aching muscles and dissolve life’s stresses. Aside from hot pools, dry saunas, and daily deep tissue massages, the hotel’s spa served as a blissful refuge that restored my physical, mental, and spiritual body.
A spiritual stop inThini village (Images: Courtesy of Shinta Mani Mustang—a Bensley Collection and Sandra Soriano)
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One must acknowledge that travelling to Mustang is no easy feat; unpredictable weather delayed flights to Kathmandu, migratory bird disruptions closed Pokhara airport, and an unplanned six-hour off-road traverse to the final destination was exhausting. And yet, the constant confrontation with nature’s exhilarating power and raw beauty made this an epic voyage of discovery, soulful contemplation, and spiritual renewal.
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