An art lover’s guide to Genoa, Italy

Palazzo Grillo is on Piazze delle Vigne, which it shares with a café, a bar, a restaurant and a church (what more do you need in Italy?). The hotel offers a very good night’s sleep and an even better breakfast. Pack a jumper and sit on the terrace amongst the rooftops. The location is perfect - you can be at your first coffee stop of the day in 20 seconds.

Palazzo Durazzo Suites was recently converted into a hotel, opening its doors in 2023. It is thought to be the best Genoa has to offer, particularly if it’s sleeping under frescoed ceilings that you are after. Marchesa Emanuela Brignone Cattaneo, whose home is her husband’s family's Palazzo Pallavicini on Via Gariboldi, was the architect for the project. Her dedication to this project perfectly demonstrates how the long-standing families of Genoa have formed somewhat of a collective to make Genoa great again.

In case you missed it: A coastal conversation: Los Angeles and its transformative view on wellness

Sometimes it is about following your nose, and I stress here that it is almost impossible to have a bad coffee in Genoa; however, these spots seemed somewhat iconic. Situated on Via Garibaldi, Cambi Café is the ideal place to pause for an /another espresso, or indeed lunch. Expect to see Genovese gentry enjoying their favourite focaccia. The owner, Signore Marcello Cambi, who will almost certainly serve you, has another passion project - Cambi Auctions. If, like me, you express interest, he will present a catalogue of the upcoming sale.

Romanego specialises in the Genovese delicacy Frutta Candita. The shop itself is something of a spectacle - I suggest ordering an espresso and a singular candied pear, to have at the bar. Pasticceria Klainguti is another café fit for a ball. Here it is all about the Pandolce Antica Genova, a fruity biscuit-ified panatone (with an espresso, obviously). 

Gesu Church is one of Genoa’s oldest churches. The façade is somewhat unassuming, but the interiors take a different approach. All over Genoa, you will come across art by “foreigners’ who were attracted to the city and its demanding patrons who could afford to commission the best craftsmen and artists in Europe. Above the high altar is a large painting by Rubens, and in the side chapel is a Guido Reni.

San Lorenzo is the most important Cathedral of Genoa. The façade is an extraordinary feat of intricate design work in the black and white style, which was a common feature of Ligurian architecture. It seems very well preserved - perhaps a dedicated angel is protecting it from the sea air.

You could take a week exploring the palazzos which line Via Garibaldi. I would have if I could have. Palazzo Bianco houses an art collection to rival the most celebrated National Galleries of Europe. There is an abundance of masterpieces by Flemish artists, such as Jan Massys, Avercamp, and Jan Wildens, who came to Genoa, as well as Italians such as Veronese and Caravaggio.

Palazzo Doria-Tursi was built to be the grandest of them all, and today it is a pilgrimage for Paganini fans, as his very own violin, the famous “Canone”, is housed here. For the gardener amongst you, a visit to Palazzo Lomellino is a must. It boasts a glorious terraced garden - a rare surviving feature, as most of the gardens have been redeveloped due to the scarcity of space between the mountains and the sea.

Palazzo Rosso was my favourite, as it still has the feeling of a home. This is the beautifully restored residence of the Brignole-Sale family. The restoration was carried out in 2004, in order to present its former glory to the public. The frescoed walls with “tromp l’oeil” architectural features are a sight to behold and very typical of the Palazzo Rolli - never waste a good wall. The collection is rich and varied, including some important paintings by Anthony van Dyck, who was also lured to Genoa for six years before he moved to England. Take a moment in front of his “Christ Carrying the Cross”, an unusual religious subject by the artist. The tenderness is particularly enchanting compared to his noble portraits.

I stumbled upon Galleria Imperiale Antichita, which was both a triumph and a test as the place was piled high with the most elegant Italian pieces. I was able to justify the acquisition of six Murano glasses and a small print by an abstract Italian female artist for my humble abode in Hong Kong. Upstairs turns into a cocktail bar at night. Expect to drink a Negroni alongside gorgeous Italian 20-something-year-olds and wish that you could conduct a life swap.

Via Garibaldi 12 is a famous interiors shop in Genoa. The actual building (a palazzo, of course) was what I wanted to put in my shopping basket. The offering was delectable, but mainly brands that are available outside of Genoa.

I suggest wrapping up your trip from Spianata Castelletto, a viewing terrace overlooking the city. It is the perfect place to reflect on the glory that is Genoa, whilst looking down on the “caruggi” you have been scurrying around. You will notice the wonderful, breezy microclimate of the bay and feel an affinity with the Genovese, past and present, sunning themselves on their terraces. One really gets the feeling up here that Genoa is a special place, and perhaps, therefore, it is not by mistake that the locals have taken it off the tourist trail to enjoy a fallow period in its illustrious history.

As of today, considerable efforts are being made by the likes of the Friends of Genoa to sing a little louder about its wonders. Groups like these believe that a smattering of tourist income, hosting high-profile events and an influx of students would allow for some needed improvements to the city. So, I feel less guilty sharing this secret with you all. Go to Genoa now, before everyone else does!

NOW READ

Home tour: a family apartment in London, England balancing historic charm with modern flair

Built to arrive: the Prix Versailles Most Beautiful Airports 2026 list

Home tour: an expansive family home balancing peace and prosperity in Cavite, Philippines