From a vast collection of never-before-seen works by Picasso to a brutalist swimming hall-turned-exhibition space … Lucerne is an unexpected destination for great art
Colour me shocked. No, really, because when I stepped off the train in Lucerne, I expected the quintessential Swiss experience: a shimmering lake shrouded by mountains and a picturesque Old Town with a medieval bridge. And I was wrong - well, kind of, you'll find all of that and it's all very charming. But it also has a few tricks up its sleeve: this city, with its storybook façade, is also home to an unexpected art scene.
From galleries housed in former national banks to contemporary art spaces located in old municipal swimming pools, Lucerne's artistic pulse is strong and surprising.
See also: Roger Federer exclusive interview: a man and his mountains
Sammlung Rosengart
I’m going to go out on a limb and say that Sammlung Rosengart—also known as The Rosengart Collection—is one of the most underrated galleries in the world. Housed in a neoclassical building that was originally constructed in 1924 as a branch of the Swiss National Bank, the museum is privately owned by Angela Rosengart, daughter of prominent art dealer Siegfried Rosengart, and features a jaw-dropping repertoire that includes pieces from the family’s private collection.
There are over 130 works by Pablo Picasso—a close friend of the family—which includes 32 paintings as well as drawings, watercolours, sketches and sculptures. There’s an entire floor dedicated to the works of Paul Klee, and rooms that house works by the likes of Claude Monet, Henri Matisse and Marc Chagall.
There’s also a space dedicated to the works of American photographer David Douglas Duncan, who famously captured intimate moments of Picasso’s life, from painting with his children at his home and studio and Cannes, to mornings spent with his beloved Dachshund, Lump.
Given the calibre of artworks on display, the experience is deceivingly—confusingly—casual. There’s no ticket box, but rather one person sat at a desk at the entrance. There isn’t even a gift shop, just two racks of postcards and a large folder of prints to select from and buy. The whole thing is bizarre, surprising and inspiring.

Above Sammlung Rosengart in Lucerne, housed in a former branch of the Swiss National Bank

Above Original works by Pablo Picasso at Sammlung Rosengart in Lucerne
Impulse Gallery
You got your fix of works by the masters at Sammlung Rosengart. Now take a scenic 15-minute stroll across Lucerne’s Seebrücke bridge to Impulse Gallery, a contemporary art space that proves the city isn't just about old-world charm. The gallery was co-founded by artist Claudia Limacher in 2020, and has established itself as a dynamic platform for both emerging and established international artists.
The exhibitions are constantly changing but always thought-provoking, having showcased compelling exhibitions by artists such as Peter Demetz, known for his realistic wood sculptures, and Chinese artist Zhuang Hong Yi, who is known for his vibrant canvases inspired by flowerbeds, each one featuring hundreds of pieces of folded and painted rice paper.
Impulse Gallery covers an impressive 450 square meters of floor space with soaring ceilings, including a main gallery with gridded ceiling lights that's reminiscent of the space station in Stanley Kubrick's 2001: A Space Odyssey.
Tatler tip: Impulse gallery is only open from Wednesday until Saturday, so plan your visit accordingly.
Neubad
In 2013, a group of passionate locals rescued the former municipal indoor swimming pool, Hallenbad Biregg from demolition, transforming the brutalist masterpiece into a vibrant, multi-functional space. The main pool, still with its original bathhouse-style tiles, diving board and water slide hovering above, now serves as a stage for concerts, a venue for markets and a space for thought-provoking lectures.
One of Neubad's most charming features is the seasonal Gartenkino. This outdoor cinema transforms a former sports grounds into a relaxed, open-air movie theater. Here, you can lounge on a deck chair under the stars to catch an indie film or a classic blockbuster.
Keep an eye on its programme to see what’s on during your visit. Even if nothing tickles your fancy, it’s still a fun place to grab a meal at the bistro—they often do pop-ups with local and visiting chefs—attend a lecture in the deep end or stumble upon an art exhibition in what used to be a locker room.

Above Neubad, housed in a former municipal indoor swimming pool in Lucerne







