A Luxury Guide to Cyclades in Greece

One & Only Kea Island: For the family that seeks adventure

The magic of One&Only Aesthesis lies in its proximity to the city centre, which means a guided tour of the Arcropolis—or just a delicious lunch on the terrace of The Dolli overlooking it—is just a 40-minute drive away. But most looking for further relaxation after a few days on the buzzy riviera decamp to Aesthesis’ famed sister property, One&Only Kea Island, just a boat ride away.

After a 45-minute private transfer from Athen’s Lavrio port (or a 20-minute helicopter ride should you prefer) on a sleek speedboat, we arrived in the secluded cove of Kea, a rugged island mostly dotted with lush villas owned by affluent Athenians—until One&Only opened its ultra-luxe resort in 2024. 

At every turn as we climbed the steep cliff in a buggy, the striking Aegean blue stretched out before us, a feature that English architect and designer John Heah (of Heah & Co. and Four Seasons Sayan, Bali and Amanera, Dominican Republic) cleverly captures with his design of tall atriums, white-washed walls, and majestic arches. From the breezy, open-air lobby to the dining spaces tucked into the rocks, every space is designed to welcome in what lies just outside. Perfectly-gnarly olive and oak trees and indigenous flora punctuate the central building which flows seamlessly into outdoor lounge areas sprinkled with inviting cushions warmed under the sun. 

After drinking in the postcard-perfect sunset with a cocktail in hand, we glided down the spiral staircase—intentionally designed with wide, cascading steps to encourage the visitor to settle into island time—past quiet nooks like a speakeasy cigar room and tranquil library. At the bottom we were met by spherical sculptures by award-winning artist Maria Vlandi before being sat on the terrace of Mediterranean restaurant Atria under the stars. We dined on a menu that could only be described as a love letter to the island—authentic Cycladic cuisine with a twist, dishes using locally sourced produce featuring juicy rosemary-crusted lamb, shrimp orzo and spanakopita gyoza that felt refined yet comforting, all paired with Greek wine, of course. 

Then, we were escorted to our villa, one of only 63 rooms, each fitted with an identical, generously-sized private pool that offers breathtaking panoramic views of the sea. Like the main building, Heah designed the rooms to let in the most natural light possible; glass slits all around mean the sight of seagulls diving in and out of the blue can be seen whether you’re snacking on local herb-infused chocolates in the living room, soaking in the ceramic tub or getting ready in the spacious walk-in closet kitted with branded hats and sandals. 

In the afternoon, we were beckoned by what we were told was the largest wellness centre in the One&Only portfolio and the glittering private beach below it. Ensconced between the rocks in three levels of glass-and-stone is a tranquil indoor pool behind three looming arches, a smart gym complete with an outdoor boxing area, and of course, treatment rooms where heavenly massages awaited. 

Given the rugged terrain, Kea is a place where its visitors are up for getting a little sweaty, whether that’s via tennis or padel (Greek tennis pro and former world number three player Stefanos Tsitsipas was meant to lead some training sessions the following week), a hike to nearby archeological sites with a resident archeologist, or dedicated dives to world-renowned shipwrecks like that of the Titanic’s sister ship HMHS Britannic just off the coast.

But today, we opt to sweat it out at the beach club on Kea’s protected pocket of sand, although 14 other beaches on the island are also accessible by boat. Protected from the strong wind, which the Cycladic islands can suffer from, we lunched on power bowls made with quinoa and freshly grilled prawns, and shopped at the beachside boutique where one can find accessories from beloved Greek brands Ancient Greek Sandals or YSSO designed exclusively for One&Only Kea Island. 

At our last breakfast—a ritual which had become one of the most treasured of the trip, thanks to the agora-style layout with little “shops” dedicated to baked goods, another to juices and yet another to dairy offerings—we watched as a stylish family of four checked in upstairs and sashayed in for their morning meal, secretly envious that they were at the beginning of their adventure and us at the end, but we vowed to return, if not to dive for shipwrecks then at least for the heavenly sheep yoghurt we were devouring and would not soon forget.

Gundari: For honeymooners seeking barefoot luxury

That a relatively unknown Greek island could still exist in the age of social media seems inconceivable, but (at least at time of writing) Folegandros fits the bill of what might be considered a hidden gem in the Cyclades, with Gundari, its only five-star resort is its crowning jewel. 

One needs only to step off the crowded, 50-minute ferry ride from Santorini—the only way in or out of the airport-free island—to feel the immediate shift in energy. You’re greeted by sleepy port with just a handful of fishing boats before you drive up what feels like the only paved road through the rugged island, past a lonesome chapel at the top of zigzagging steps until you reach an unassuming wall of stones which were scavenged from its surroundings. 

Gundari, meaning “rocky place,” which soft launched in 2024, has only opened for its second full season this year, which affords the property its IYKYK quality. The clientele by far are couples in their 20s to 40s from America and Europe, some of whom are honeymooners looking for a quiet stop in between a hectic week of island-hopping. As the warm, young staff checked us in at its minimalist-chic lobby lined with artful ceramics, an athletic couple was returning from their afternoon adventure of quadding down to a hidden beach. 

All our mental plans for attempting the same adventure that afternoon went out the window, or should I say sliding glass doors, when we entered our villa (one of just 27 keys) and saw our private dipping pool jutting straight into the sea. The cliffside room is cosy, well-equipped, and modernly designed in a similar fashion to the lobby, and while it is on the smaller side and the bathroom features a beautiful, if a little impractically deep stone sink, we figured any time in the room will be spent on the generous daybed and oak tables on the terrace anyway. 

Eventually, our grumbling stomachs led us out into the indoor-outdoor dining area, where stone tables, woven chairs and linen cushions awaited under the thatched roof. The sun seeps through every corner, creating striking shadows across spaces, blending the muted hues into its surroundings. Evening meals are often taken in Orizon, a more secluded dining space punctuated by olive trees, but we opted to enjoy the panoramic sea views as we enjoyed a farm-to-table meal of lemony homemade pasta with calamari and pan-seared fish-of-the-day on a bed of creamy spinach.

Then, it was time to take in what is undoubtedly Gundari’s most iconic space—the pool. The glassy infinity pool stretching from the swim-up bar into the Aegean beyond, flanked by two lines of perfectly curlicued sunbeds is the most circulated image on social media, and this author can confirm it is as stunningly beautiful as advertised. Few things could rip us away from staring at the unending blue save perhaps for the rising gusts of meltemi winds that the island can sometimes be subject to, so we used it as an excuse to take our concierge’s advice and visit another highlight of the island—its village, Chora. 

A 10-minute, complimentary shuttle ride from Gundari and you’ll find yourself at the heart of Folegandros, but where nearby Santorini or Milos might have swarms of tourists crowding the tiny, cobblestoned streets, there was hardly another soul in sight—save for an old man, perched at the end of the caldera looking out onto the crashing waves as a cat curled its tail around his calves. Tranquil and charming, Folegandros is known to still be inhabited by locals who have set up roots behind white-washed walls and mom-and-pop restaurants for decades. After a wholesome meal of grilled red snapper and aubergines at Eve’s Garden (where a sneaky kitty almost did away with our fish), we popped into several shops selling wooden fish toys and jute baskets as the town came to life in the dark, with locals knocking beers at bustling gyros joints. 

The lack of pretension is what travellers come to Folegandros for, and Gundari aims to respect the island’s reputation, even as it plans to expand its property. A larger spa is in the works (although the current one, a converted suite with a magnesium-infused mineral pool still offers treatments from sound baths to herb-infused massages), while a slice of land has been carved out next to the main pool to be turned into a bar-restaurant with prime sunset views. Even then, 

Gundari’s proud brand of luxury will always include the best the island has to offer: cooking classes in the Chora, private boat excursions to snorkel and dive around the sparkling coastline, and spooning a heaping dollop of local honey into your tea as the stars peek out from the dripping sunset.

Andronis Arcadia: For social sunbathers and foodies 

Santorini has gotten a bad rap in recent years, from its crowded cobblestoned caldera to subpar restaurants catering to the legions of tourists pouring off cruise ships. But what if there was a way to retreat into an exclusive compound after a day seeing the sights? 

Andronis, the luxury hotel group behind some beloved properties around Greece, are most prominent on the dramatic, volcanic Greek island of Santorini, and quite literally has a property for whatever your needs might be. Andronis Concept, in the quiet pocket of Imerovigli, serves as a wellness retreat, Andronis Luxury Suites for large, private groups that has seen famous patrons like the Kardashian clan, Andronis Boutique Hotel is the intimate cliffside nook in Oia for couples while Andronis Arcadia is where the social sunbathers shine at their buzzy restaurants and generous pools.  

After a sweaty day hiking through the iconic whitewashed villages and brilliant blue-domed churches of Santorini just a 20-minute drive away, Arcadia’s groomed paths leading down to the lantern-lit hospitality area is a welcome sight. Two restaurants serve up Greek twists on international classics, like Kobe Gyros with wheat galette, tzatzíki at the internationally acclaimed steakhouse Beefbar or a mouthwater torched red snapper crudo at poolside restaurant Pacman. But for a truly special cliffside dining experience at sunset, a reservation at Andronis Boutique Hotel’s restaurant Lauda just a 5 five-minute walk up the road is a must. Helmed by newly appointed head chef Orestis Sotiriou and Emmanuel Renaut, the chef behind three-Michelin restaurant Flocons de Sel, the duo bring together the country’s rich culinary traditions with their contemporary flair to create a menu that takes you from fava bites made to mimic volcanic rocks, to a runny smoked egg yolk confection hidden underneath a crispy cage of fava—all while dining on a white-washed deck that reaches straight into the Aegean with the plunging cliffs behind you. 

Returning to our villa at Andronis, one of 114 luxurious keys, with a private plunge pool, you can soak your weary feet in what could be the largest private bathtub in the world. A giant stone square tub (which could easily fit 10 people) awaits in the romantically-lit bathroom, in keeping with its soft, clay-coloured interiors that make for a soothing escape from the hustle and bustle outside. Rounded corners and capacious closets also add to the feeling of private home.

This is perhaps one of Arcadia’s greatest strengths; despite its many areas for socialisation—from the vast outdoor pools complete with submerged chaises and a buzzy swim-up bar to the glitzy boutique open late into the night—there are many quiet nooks to discover in the village-like property. Its Evexia Spa is one of such spaces, spread across several bamboo and stone covered rooms where one could enjoy holistic massages and wraps or ESPA facials. One of the more unique experiences is the Kneipp Path, two parallel L-shaped pools, one filled with cold water and the other with hot, both lined with pebbles for reflexology stimulation, while you alternate between temperatures for ultimate muscle recovery. 

But whether you’re visiting Andronis Arcadia as a first-time tourist or on a girls trip, it’s the warm staff you will remember, the young army of friendly faces eager to curate the ideal wellness afternoon for you or make sure your hand is never without a cocktail by the pool. 

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