In northwest Guangzhou, a forgotten village called Langtou that once produced politicians and scholars for the emperor was in recent years turned into Chun Yang Tai, an arts centre and weekend getaway tracing the history of the literati in ancient China
Guangzhou is one of the fastest-growing economic engines of the Greater Bay Area, known for its robust automotive, electronics and petrochemical industries alongside a sophisticated transport hub. Yet an hour’s drive northwest from Guangzhou East railway station to the city’s outskirts reveals a dramatic shift in pace. Soaring skyscrapers, bustling commuters and congested traffic give way to low-rise houses, family-run roadside eateries and sprawling paddy fields.
Following a road sign that reads “Langtou Village” along a path through vast networks of rice fields and rolling hills, my Didi (the mainland Chinese version of Uber) takes a turn and a short drive that leads to Chun Yang Tai Arts and Cultural Centre—a non-profit arts space that stands in intriguing contrast to its pastoral setting of lily ponds and farmlands.

Above The ancestral halls and lily pond in Langtou Village, where the arts centre Chun Yang Tai is located (Photo: Tatler Hong Kong)
Designed by the University of Hong Kong’s dean and chair professor of the Faculty of Architecture, Yung-Ho Chang, the complex—whose tones and architectural features draw inspiration from historic local brick village houses and traditional ink art—comprises a permanent exhibition hall tracing the history of ancient China’s literati culture. Among its collection are rare relics, letters and calligraphy by key political and philosophical figures such as Lin Zexu. The complex also features spaces hosting rotating exhibitions, a theatre, reading rooms and a library housing more than 30,000 books on world literature and the humanities—alongside volumes from the Complete Library of the Four Treasuries, the monumental imperial encyclopedia commissioned by the Qianlong Emperor during the Qing dynasty.
During my visit in early August, the venue celebrated the opening of Liu Heung Shing: Lens, Era, People, a new exhibition by the Pulitzer Prize-winning Hong Kong-born photographer. Liu famously documented the collapse of the Soviet Union in 1991, photographed the younger brother of China’s last emperor, Puyi, at the Forbidden City in 1980, and captured iconic portraits of celebrities, artists and gallerists including Yo-Yo Ma, Chow Yun-fat, Andy Warhol and François Pinault throughout his decades-long career. A graduate in international relations and political science from Hunter College in New York, Liu was among the first photojournalists to document China following its reform and opening up, going on to serve as chief photographer for the Associated Press in Beijing, Los Angeles, New Delhi, Seoul and Moscow.
Featuring about 50 photographs, the show forms part of a touring exhibition that premiered in Shanghai in June 2023. While this show is smaller in scale, partially due to Chun Yang Tai’s size, it is in no way less significant. Alongside a comprehensive curation that highlights the most important styles, phases and locations of Liu’s work that documents social changes, Liu visited Langtou Village two weeks prior to the opening to capture new images of the community. One striking portrait depicts local children reading inside the art centre’s library—a deliberate visual echo of a famous photograph Liu took in 1981 showing students studying under streetlamps at Tiananmen Square ahead of the gaokao, which is the national college entrance examination.
“We often encourage children, and even adults, to read so that one can build strong prospects for the future. Liu was inspired by the sight of the children reading in the library here. He noted how reminiscent it was of what he captured decades ago: everyone immersed in reading. Although the setting has evolved, the spirit of learning endures, which inspired him to capture that moment,” explains Sisee Woo, the head of branding and communications at Chun Yang Tai.
Above A photo of Langtou Village’s children reading at Chun Yang Tai’s library, with Liu Heung Shing’s photo of students studying at Tiananmen Square taken in 1981 (Photo: Chun Yang Tai)
That a tranquil, secluded village can host prominent exhibitions like Liu’s and serve as the site for a major cultural revitalisation project featuring national heritage may surprise first-time visitors. Yet Langtou Village possesses a distinguished history. Its origins date back to the Southern Song dynasty 700 years ago, when the Huang clan settled in this marshland region surrounded by waterways ideal for farming and duck breeding. The prosperous village reached its peak during the Ming and Qing dynasties, when the clan—which placed paramount value on education—produced a lineage of scholars, officials and writers who served the imperial court.
Today, its heritage cluster of 20 ancestral halls and study rooms stands among the Pearl River Delta’s largest and best-preserved historical sites. Langtou was designated a Chinese National Historical and Cultural Village in 2014. Chun Yang Tai—its name meaning “the terrace blessed by the spring sun”, inspired by the writings of the great Lingnan scholar Chen Xianzhang—displays historical letters written by locals that attest to the village’s academic legacy. These form part of a broader archive of manuscripts, calligraphy, paintings, poetry and even palm-sized examination cheat booklets hidden in sleeves by ancient candidates, all examined within the permanent literati exhibition.
In case you missed it: Future on Track: how Hong Kong artist duo Foreseen Agency turns trams and Tamagotchis into ‘living beings’
Ironically, it was this high level of education that eventually led to the village’s decline during modern industrial expansion. “Over time, younger generations pursued careers in urban centres, leaving behind older generations of farmers,” says Woo. Demographic decline subsequently constrained local economic growth.
In 2021, the Guangzhou district government partnered with mainland discount e-commerce retailer Vipshop to launch a comprehensive rural revitalisation initiative, selecting Langtou for its cultural significance. The project represented an investment of over RMB 200 million (US$28 million). Beyond constructing Chun Yang Tai at the entrance of the village, ancestral halls, brick alleyways and gateways were restored to their historical specifications.
Twenty-one historic courtyard residences along ancient lanes were transformed into boutique guesthouses known as He Chun Zhu (“Spring Harmony Residences”), complete with modern amenities including a swimming pool and a Cantonese restaurant overlooking paddy fields and lotus ponds. Other villager-owned properties were converted into independent cafés and rooftop dining spots, some offering traditional costume dress-ups for visitors. A landscaped walkway was also created around the central lily pond along the main street.
Since opening in April 2023, Chun Yang Tai has hosted numerous cultural lectures, academic symposiums and community programmes. The facilities are equally integrated into local life. “With parents working in the city, we wanted to offer a welcoming community space where local children can join literary workshops or after-school music sessions,” Woo says. “Our aim is to attract visitors to support the local economy while ensuring the project respects and enriches the daily lives of residents.”
Three years into its revival, Langtou mainly attracts families and travellers seeking a relaxing weekend retreat. The village, which is only accessible by car, retains an unhurried rhythm; local eateries operate on traditional schedules, often closing by 8pm. During my weekend stay, the village streets remained delightfully uncrowded. Save for a few European guests lounging by the pool, most visitors were there for the exhibition opening. I spent a lazy morning enjoying coffee, toast and dog-patting at a small café along the main street, where the owner, who used to be an exhibition curator in Shanghai and Beijing, told me her clientele mostly comprises mainlanders and Hong Kong tour groups on weekends and public holidays. The rest of the time, she shutters the shop to travel.
While the team at Chun Yang Tai anticipates that major exhibition programming will continue to draw broader global audiences, it remains the village’s serene atmosphere, rich architectural legacy and timeless charm that make Langtou a standout cultural destination.
Topics


















