Cover At night, Malacañang Palace glistens and throws its captivating reflection on the Pasig River for a breathtaking view
At night, Malacañang Palace glistens and throws its captivating reflection on the Pasig River for a breathtaking view
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Tatler gets exclusive access to the Malacañang Palace, the centuries-old edifice that serves as the official residence and seat of power of the President of the Philippines
Steeped in history and layered in stories of power, glamour and the occasional upheaval, Malacañang Palace has been the seat of the Philippine government and designated residence of its highest-ranking official since the Spanish colonial era. The majestic palace that rests on the north bank of the Pasig River is also often referred to as Malacañan, the name by which it was known during the American occupation. President Ramon Magsaysay changed its official spelling to “Malacañang” in 1954.
Before there was a palace, however, Spanish merchant Don Luis Rocha built a summer home in the 1700s, the first home to be constructed on the Malacañang site. Don Luis purchased a plot of land in the small town of San Miguel, far from the bustling Intramuros that was the centre of the capital city at the time, to build a holiday respite for his family. Surrounded by numerous indigenous acacia, narra and balete trees, the idyllic Rocha home faced the river yet was set just inland enough to ensure privacy from the boats traversing the waterway.
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Above A statue of the former president, Ramon Magsaysay, welcomes guests to the Kalayaan Hall
A statue of the former president, Ramon Magsaysay, welcomes guests to the Kalayaan Hall
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Resident Malacañang historian and presidential staff assistant Francis Louie Esquivel explains to Tatler that Rocha married Gregoria Tuason, daughter of the Chinese Son Tua, who founded the prominent Tuason family. Esquivel says, “His modern-day descendants report that he was a large, hot-tempered man who loved his afternoon siesta. One of the duties of his Indian manservant was to shush noisy boatmen plying the Pasig, warning them, ‘Malaki yan’—another version of the genesis of the Malacañang name, the phrase translating to “He’s big”, referring to the lord of the mansion.”
The Rocha family enjoyed the house for many decades, but in 1802, they were forced to sell the property to the Spanish Colonel Jose Miguel Formento. Less than a quarter of a century later, the property exchanged ownership again—this time, it was sold to the Spanish government to serve as a summer residence for the Spanish governor-general.
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Above Crystal chandeliers from Czechoslovakia strike an imposing presence in the Reception Hall
Crystal chandeliers from Czechoslovakia strike an imposing presence in the Reception Hall
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In 1863, a devastating earthquake struck the city of Manila and damaged the Palacio del Gobernador, the long-time residence of the Spanish governor-general. While it was being renovated, Governor Rafael de Echagüe moved into the San Miguel mansion; it was soon decided that Malacañang Palace would become the official residence of the Spanish governor-general. When the Philippines came under American rule in 1898, it also served as residence to all American administrators, including Wesley Merit, the first American military governor in the Philippines and William Howard Taft, who later became the 27th president of the United States. In 1935, Manuel Quezon became the first Filipino resident of the palace when he was sworn in as the first President of the Commonwealth of the Philippines.
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Above Portraits of former presidents, Manuel L Quezon and Emilio Aguinaldo, at the Reception Hall
Portraits of former presidents, Manuel L Quezon and Emilio Aguinaldo, at the Reception Hall
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Since then, the Malacañang Palace complex has served as every succeeding Philippine president’s official residence and office. It is the designated residence and principal workplace of President Ferdinand “Bong Bong” Marcos Jr. However, he and his family have chosen to live across the river at the Bahay Pangulo.
Originally built as a tropical colonial palace, Malacañang has undergone several renovations over the past two centuries. The last extensive renovation occurred in 1978-1979, led by former first lady Imelda Marcos with support from renowned architect Jorge Ramos. Ramos was also responsible for designing other iconic Philippine structures, including the Philippine Heart Center, the GSIS building and the Golden Mosque in Quiapo.
Above The Rizal Ceremonial Hall
The Rizal Ceremonial Hall
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Esquivel says President Ferdinand Marcos and his wife celebrated their silver wedding anniversary in Malacañang on May 1, 1979. “A grandiose celebration was held to mark the event, capped with a Rigodon de Honor, a formal group dance. The occasion likewise presented the perfect opportunity for the renovation or rebuilding of Malacañang Palace, which, after almost two centuries of use, manifested obvious signs of deterioration,” says Esquivel. “Instead of the combination of various colonial architectural styles, the palace’s design, under the direction and initiative of Mrs Marcos, now features predominantly Filipino motifs both in its interiors and exteriors.”
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Above Portait of the current President Ferdinand Marcos, Jr
Portait of the current President Ferdinand Marcos, Jr
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During this period, more Philippine elements were added to ornament the space. The walls of the grand staircase and the vestibule at the top of the stairs were clad with narra chips meant to resemble traditional Filipino woven sawali (traditional woven split-bamboo mats) panels found in many Filipino homes and a defining characteristic of the Philippine bahay kubo or nipa hut. Large, carved wooden chandeliers from the town of Betis, famed for wood carving, were installed in the ceremonial hall, the palace’s main function room and the venue for all state dinners.
This significant renovation reinforced the existing structure, and bulletproof glass windows were installed. The renovation also saw the addition of more personal space for the president’s family and minstrel balconies in the main reception hall and the enlargement of specific staterooms. Since then, the palace has been preserved and maintained without significant refurbishment.
Read also: Imelda Cajipe Endaya and her sawali art
Above The Reception Hall after its renovation in 1937
Above The family dining room during President Quezon’s era
The Reception Hall after its renovation in 1937
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Above New entrance leading to the private quarters
Above An archival photo of the Reception Hall
New entrance leading to the private quarters
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That changed when the president was elected and the first lady visited Malacañang. Social Secretary Bianca Zobel tells Tatler that when Liza Araneta-Marcos toured the palace, she was most concerned about improving the working spaces for the employees. She found that many offices were outfitted with make-shift furnishings, and the space allocation was inefficient and inequitable. She immediately initiated a project to create better working conditions for the palace staff and called a creative consultant, designer Jonathan Matti, to assist with the project. “It’s always a joy to do something for the first lady,” Matti tells Tatler. “Her warmth and charm are disarming, and she is concise and definite about her vision and conveys her message. She’s always so appreciative.”
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Above Malacañang Palace in 1898
Above Malacañang Palace in the 1900s
Malacañang Palace in 1898
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Above The Azotea
Above An aerial view of the Palace
The Azotea
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An old building within the complex was soon renovated and turned into a staff house where Malacañang employees could reside. The palace’s kitchen was updated, and a good, well-lit dining room was added so employees could enjoy their meals. As Malacañang is a working palace, the number of functions hosted there weekly called for an appropriate catering kitchen; previously, caterers would set up in tents on the palace grounds. A small building was added to the existing structure while respecting the palace’s original architecture. Lighting inside and outside the palace was also improved, which was done with the help of renowned lighting specialist Monino Duque.
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Above Archival photo of the grand staircase
Archival photo of the grand staircase
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Araneta-Marcos wanted to proceed in the palace’s upstairs rooms with utmost care and caution. A total renovation was unnecessary, but the rooms had become dated over the past 40 years and needed refreshing. Zobel and her deputy, Dina Tantoco, began the process by showing Araneta-Marcos historical photographs of the palace they had found during their research. “The first lady was inspired by an old photograph of Malcañang when all the walls were painted white. She wanted to brighten the spaces but make them feel warm while keeping them functional,” says Zobel. The design direction for the proposed refreshing of spaces would be done in the vein of its original tropical colonial heritage.
Matti suggested they lighten the colour of the walls by the grand staircase and in the vestibule by painting the dark narra sawali cladding in what he calls “Palay beige”, which he felt would open and brighten the narrow space. As the original varnish had been painted on with brown paint, Matti knew it would have been a tedious and lengthy process for which they didn’t have time.
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Above Grand staircase with the new sawali walls
Grand staircase with the new sawali walls
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At the top of the staircase, he continued painting the narra strips in the entry foyer and framed the panels by adding plaster glass mouldings. Heavily wood-carved panels in the foyer and reception hall were stripped of their dark wood patina and painted in the same Palay beige. At the same time, artist and surface designer Tats Manahan was called to refinish the wood ornamentation with a subtle gold-leaf finish. In the grand foyer, console tables that line the room were stripped of their original intense gold finish and given a more subdued gold leaf finish similar to what was used on the wooden wall ornaments.
Read also: Bahay na Bato: the parts of a stately Filipino house during the Spanish Colonial Period
Above Landing of the grand staircase
Landing of the grand staircase
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Above Vestibule, Reception Hall
Vestibule, Reception Hall
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Zobel says that the plan to continue refurbishing the main building includes an update to the ceremonial hall, where the dark wood-panelled walls will be repainted and “patinated”, a term they have come to use for refinishing. The curtains framing the windows overlooking the river will be replaced, as will the main carpet.
Above The balcony’s black and white flooring evokes a timeless classic touch
The balcony’s black and white flooring evokes a timeless classic touch
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Above The Quadrangle
Above Handiwork of the carvers of Betis
at the Rizal Ceremonial Hall
The Quadrangle
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The balcony of the newly renovated catering kitchen has also been transformed into a spacious veranda. As it lies adjacent to the ceremonial hall, doors have been added to open into a spacious outdoor area covered by soft trees and pink bougainvillaea. Old garden furniture around the palace complex has been painted black and outfitted with black and white striped cushions, then installed atop the signature Matti black and white checkerboard tile. “I find the choice of black as an accent to be simple, elegant, and appropriate,” says Matti.
Another prominent feature of the refurbishment was an update to the quadrangular courtyard located below the private apartments. “It was bland and ordinary,” continues Matti. “We wanted to create an experience.”
Above In the evening, at the front of the Palace, uplights, downlights and tree lights lend a warm calming glow
In the evening, at the front of the Palace, uplights, downlights and tree lights lend a warm calming glow
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At the quadrangle’s centre is a water fountain, installed by the first President Marcos, now surrounded by a blanket of short green plants. Simple sconces hanging along the surrounding columns illuminate the space. “When we changed the colour of the quadrangle from white to rust, it was more of a judgement call that we did not run through formally,” says Zobel. “We knew this was the right decision, but with everything going on and the important things the first lady has to attend to, we decided to act on it first and take our chances. We were a bit nervous about how the first couple would react because they have specific tastes and like simple and light things. In the end, it went well, and they loved it.”
“It takes a village,” Matti tells Tatler. “The first lady sets the direction, and Bianca, Dina, and the Malacañang staff carry out the execution. I provide creative design input while Maria Parsons directs the landscaping and floral design, and Monino Duque does an incredible job with the lighting. The results are because of our collective hard work with one goal: to give every Filipino a palace they can be proud of.”
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Credits
Photography: At Maculangan
