New in the Old: Chinatown Kuala Lumpur is a fresh take on the guidebook and documents the renaissance of downtown Kuala Lumpur
Everyone loves a good comeback story and even more so when the comeback has a compelling hero. The protagonist in question here is Kuala Lumpur's Chinatown which began as a scrappy settlement for newly arrived Chinese immigrants around the late 19th century.
The tapioca mill which anchored the area was opened by Yap Ah Loy, possibly the most famous of the Kapitan Cina (Chinese Headman), this led to the street being nicknamed Chee Cheong Kai (Starch Factory Street), a name which persists till today.
Soon after, wealthier merchants started to build their shophouses and dwellings here but the area eventually fell into disrepair as Kuala Lumpur modernised, with many shophouses turning into brothels. In the 1990s and well into the 2000s, Petaling Street became the go-to spot for buying counterfeit branded products, illegal DVDs or post-clubbing meal.
This began changing sometime around 2015 when Petaling Street started evolving into a new hipster destination, with design-savvy entrepreneurs transforming dilapidated properties into Instagrammable cafes, restaurants, speakeasies, boutique hotels and most recently with REXKL, an arts and culture hub.
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