New in the Old: Chinatown Kuala Lumpur is a fresh take on the guidebook and documents the renaissance of downtown Kuala Lumpur

Everyone loves a good comeback story and even more so when the comeback has a compelling hero. The protagonist in question here is Kuala Lumpur's Chinatown which began as a scrappy settlement for newly arrived Chinese immigrants around the late 19th century.

The tapioca mill which anchored the area was opened by Yap Ah Loy, possibly the most famous of the Kapitan Cina (Chinese Headman), this led to the street being nicknamed Chee Cheong Kai (Starch Factory Street), a name which persists till today.

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Soon after, wealthier merchants started to build their shophouses and dwellings here but the area eventually fell into disrepair as Kuala Lumpur modernised, with many shophouses turning into brothels. In the 1990s and well into the 2000s, Petaling Street became the go-to spot for buying counterfeit branded products, illegal DVDs or post-clubbing meal.

This began changing sometime around 2015 when Petaling Street started evolving into a new hipster destination, with design-savvy entrepreneurs transforming dilapidated properties into Instagrammable cafes, restaurants, speakeasies, boutique hotels and most recently with REXKL, an arts and culture hub.

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To document this extraordinary renaissance, Atelier International brought together a group of creatives for a unique book that approaches this journey from various aspects.

The book is called New in the Old: Chinatown Kuala Lumpur and combines articles, commentary and photographs about Chinatown's rich history and landmarks, alongside the adaptive reuse of old buildings, vibrant culture and, of course, its mouth-watering food.

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Encompassing Jalan Petaling, Jalan Sultan, Jalan Tun H S Lee and Jalan Panggong, the design and architecture travel guide explores the old city and includes three walking guides that includes featured locations, historical landmarks and food highlights, the book showcases the new businesses alongside the old landmarks that make up the city.

Written Scarlet Koon, Aw Siew Bee, and Robert Powell, with photography by H Lin Ho, the book takes you into the vibrant and colourful community that is Chinatown Kuala Lumpur.

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Author and architecture critic, Powell opines: “As capital cities go, Kuala Lumpur is very young with a recorded history of just 165 years. Chinatown, at the very heart of the conurbation, is a palimpsest revealing upon examination multiple layers of culture that have fashioned the architecture. Food is an expression of those cultural influences. In the migration to the suburbs, many people have forgotten the delights of the old city. This book reveals that it is undergoing a renaissance driven by a young generation.”

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For author and editor Koon who grew up in Kuala Lumpur and previously studied in nearby Kuen Cheng High School, writing the book help her reconnect with the area: "Through working on the book, I got to meet, uncover and reveal the gems that are the people, buildings, food and energy of Chinatown Kuala Lumpur. I fell in love with the city all over again. It is my hope that this book would help showcase the legacy of Chinatown, and locals are able to rediscover and appreciate our history again.”

 

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Aw sums it up: “Chinatown KL had been my regular haunt for several years when I got the chance to work on this book. It’s fascinating to see how fast the area has transformed since then. A place that was best known for its hawker food and flea market is now also a trendy, Instagrammable café and bar hotspot, driven by successes such as Project Kwai Chai Hong, REXKL, and Pasar Antik (formerly Pasar Karat). This café frenzy has breathed new life into many of Chinatown’s old buildings. By documenting both faces of Chinatown, its time-tested hawker fare and its cafes. I hope that this book offers readers the Malaysian way to explore Chinatown KL: visually and gastronomically!”

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