How did Mary Grace Cafe become a Filipino instituition?

The homegrown bakeshop and cafe by Mary Grace Dimacali and her family demonstrates how a little love and support from their nearest and dearest continue to nurture their growing business

This is the story of a family.

When Mary Grace Dimacali started her home-based baking business in 1983, there was never a business plan. She was a young mother that just finished college and, as the trend was at the time, settled down to start a family right away. The children—five of them—came in rapid succession, so she knew that if she wanted to dip her fingers into any kind of career it had to be something she could do at home. Mary Grace had always liked working with dough, and she was quite a natural when it comes to creating things with it. So, in the Christmas of 1983, she started making fruitcakes.

In turn, Mary Grace’s eldest daughter, Chiara Dimacali-Hugo, is a born storyteller, something that has surely aided her in her prolific career in marketing. She tells us how her mother’s fruitcakes were holiday bestsellers, and in between Christmases she would continue to bake cookies and other pastries as gifts to family and friends. Mary Grace prided herself on making all her children’s birthday cakes from scratch, a skill that she sharpened by taking a baking course in Los Angeles, California.

Above Ensaymada, cheese roll, and hot chocolate

“My dad (Hector) encouraged my mom to do it,” Dimacali-Hugo narrates, “so she took a bread making course which also included cake decorating. When she returned to Manila after a year armed with a better grasp on baking techniques, she was more confident to add another heirloom recipe to her products for sale.”

Mary Grace knew that she wanted to offer something Filipino, a familiar pastry that would resonate with the local culture. She wanted to make what to her was the perfect ensaymada. Unlike the classic swirled roll that was dense and coated in margarine and white sugar, Mary Grace wanted to make hers airy, a premium take that has the sharpness of grated quezo de bola to counter the sweetness.

As expected, it was a hit with her regular patrons, and Mary Grace’s biggest supporter was there to once again prod her to take it to the next level. “My dad suggested to my mom that she had to widen her reach, so she should try selling it in the bazaars,” Dimacali-Hugo imparts. Their initial venture was at an event in San Antonio Plaza in the early 90s, and it was quite nerve-wracking in the beginning. With half the day already gone, Mary Grace had yet to sell a single ensaymada. Her second child, Gabriel, was with her and offered a suggestion based on his innocent observation. He said: “Mom, why will they buy something that they have not tasted?” Immediately, the budding entrepreneur had her staff slice up a few samples and, by the end of the day, her inventory was wiped out.

Another one of Mary Grace’s bestsellers, the cheese roll, came about organically to cater to customers who find the pungent aged edam cheese of the ensaymada a bit much. With the same airy, light crumb, it encapsulates a mild cheddar that softens when heated and provides just enough salty contrast to the sugary topping.

Photo 1 of 2 Celebration cakes from Mary Grace Cafe

Photo 2 of 2 Classic cakes from Mary Grace Cafe

The bazaars became so lucrative that eventually, all five children had to get involved. Later on, they all pursued further studies and careers outside of Mary Grace, but the brand was bursting with potential that Chiara, Gabriel, Raffy, Adrian, and Mian had to circle back. Gabriel—now handling business development—was the one who suggested that they open a cafe. Having operated stalls since 2002 to give their products more permanence in the market, in 2006, Mary Grace Cafe opened in Serendra, BGC.

When asked what is next for the Mary Grace brand, there is no definite answer. Dimacali-Hugo shares an anecdote of how her mother picked the name for her business. “You know, she was thinking of something clever and baking-related. One day, she was chatting with her mom and she thought ‘why not Mary Grace?’ She’s a Marian devotee and what has always driven her is her faith and her love for her family. Mom always put motherhood first and that has always been the priority, and to this day she is glad that it is how she approached it because everything just fell into place.”

Above The Dimacali family

The biggest “sign” that they were going in the right direction is in the brand name. “Mom noticed that the letters spelling ‘Grace’ stand for the first letters in the names of her children,” Dimacali-Hugo started. But that is not what is shocking. “The order of those letters is also according to the chronology of when us kids joined the business.” To them, it is a sign that everything is as it should be, and that this business is a blessing that they should continue to care for and nurture.

How do they feel about being touted as the favourite hangout of the “Titas of Manila?” Chiara admits that she and her siblings snicker about it, but she also points out how this is actually a huge compliment to their brand. All their cafés have their own personalities, no two branches look the same. They were meant to provide peaceful enclaves for their customers who are admittedly starved for choice when it comes to quiet escapes within the city. “Mary Grace, our mom, has always told us to be true to ourselves and to not run after trends,” Dimacali-Hugo says. “She has always said that we should never change for anyone and to be confident, to know our own place. I feel that Titas can relate to that, which is great. We embrace it!”

Photo 1 of 3 Mary Grace Twin Lakes café

Photo 2 of 3 Mary Grace Rockwell café

Photo 3 of 3 Mary Grace Ayala Malls Manila Bay café

When one asks for the Mary Grace Cafe story, it really is the story of their family. A mother that wanted to utilise her talents while prioritising the raising of her five children. The love and support of a husband who recognised his wife as a true partner in life and allowed her to grow. Their children, all with their own unique gifts and talents, finding themselves and then pouring their learnings back into their joint enterprise. It is the story of a family comfortable in its role to provide others with the chance to find peace and joy in the ordinary moments.

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The Mary Grace Cafe origin story: Family run and proud