Lampara's Tofu Dish

Before the pandemic hit, Poblacion was endlessly bustling with diners and bar-hoppers chasing an exciting evening. In this interview, Lampara's Alphonse Sotero reveals what it's like to be one of the few establishments still standing in this once-lively district.

Lampara has grown to be a must-try haunt, successfully solidifying its spot in the Poblacion district when the nightlife destination was continuously bustling - relentlessly competitive. With their innovative Neo-Filipino cuisine, the talented kitchen promises to delight with every visit. The playful Dinuckdakan is a fun and flavourful take on the classic Filipino dinakdakan that substitutes the typical pork meat with beautiful duck breast and skin. The crispy rice cups are another highlight among their small plates, beaming with a feast of flavours and textures; their pulpo, on the other hand, is a tasty testament to the elegance of simple dishes done right. Of course, their signature cocktails are not ones to miss, either.

Before the pandemic, one of their biggest challenges was figuring out a way to keep their customers at the restaurant for post-dinner drinks - a formidable task, considering the many bars in the area. Now, as many Poblacion spots have been forced to shut their doors, Lampara does have less competition - and yet the restaurant continued to fight tooth and nail just to keep their business afloat.

Continue reading to discover invaluable and at times harrowing insights from Alphonse Sotero, one of the chefs and owners behind Lampara.

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Lampara Restaurant Interiors
Above Lampara Restaurant - A Neo-Filipino Bistro

Could you please update us on any news or changes, from the restaurant or perhaps any professional projects you’re undertaking?

Lampara is currently on self-preservation mode - as are other restaurants, I’m sure. Earlier this year, we were supposed to push through with other projects, like opening different dining concepts. But the ever-changing policies and lockdowns not only lagged us but ultimately stifled our plans to pursue any big undertakings.

Honestly, it’s truly difficult to look too far ahead nowadays, because you get all excited and motivated to launch something new and revolutionary, then the next day another lockdown is announced. So for now, our movement has been conceptualised but kept on the shelves for a better day – if it ever comes.


How did the pandemic affect and change the way you run the restaurant from service to menu and food? What changes are here to stay?

The pandemic stirred alarming anxiety for us [as owners of Lampara], but also for the rest of the team. Every decision, every move we make has to consider the ever-changing guidelines from the government. In our neighbourhood, there are just a few of us establishments left. It feels like, even if you follow the guidelines [you can still end up being closed down].

In terms of the menu, service and food - we kept it as it was, but with more hygiene and safety involved; after all, why change what our guests loved about us? It would be nice to still give our guests some kind of semblance of pre-pandemic times when everything was still okay – to reignite nice memories of what dining was like before the pandemic. Everyone is on edge, so in times like these it’s really nice to see our regulars come back, have that first bite of the duck or the pork again, and say “I missed this!”. That’s a nice win.

We’d also have some guests who still remember our server’s names, particularly those that made the experience more amusing and empowering. It’s safe to say that our team is just as excited to see our regular guests again and that we would always give our 101 per cent to serve them.

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The Lampara Team
Above The Lampara Team

Lampara has become somewhat of a Poblacion institution. What was it like operating a bar/restaurant in such a bustling nightlife hub pre-pandemic? What were some of the greatest opportunities and challenges of operating in this space?

I guess [one of the greatest challenges at the time] would be keeping our guests after dining hours (5pm to 8pm). Normally we would be the first stop in Poblacion - people have dinner with us, and they start roaming around the area afterwards. We had to compete with other bars in the area, as we also had solid bottle service and great well-crafted signature and classic cocktails. We would always ask each other: “are we a restaurant or are we a bar? Who would stay here to drink, since it’s a restaurant set-up?”. But eventually, people started talking about our drinks, and they would order cocktails with their dinner. Soon after, people started staying longer and reserving certain areas or even the whole place from opening until closing! 

I guess one of the nice opportunities we had was that Lampara was divided into three sections, which people could neatly reserve for their group, be it for a great meal, great drinks, or both! We thought it would be difficult, but the Poblacion community is really nice and supportive.

What is the Poblacion scene like at the moment? What are some of the most significant changes you’ve observed or encountered, and how did these affect your restaurant?

At the moment, it feels like Mad Max. Many establishments around the area have closed, either due to the pandemic or for other reasons. Ironically, parking spots are also harder to find. Road renovations are taking months to finish, and at times would commence at quite inconvenient hours. The service we provide our customers is not only limited to what happens inside Lampara, but also how they arrive and leave our restaurant - it’s the whole experience. Being unable to help out our customers in regards to parking is something very troubling. 

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Lampara's Rice Cups
Above Lampara's Rice Cups

How have you adapted to achieve continued success despite these changes?

We adapted to the pandemic by launching our weekly meal plan brand. It kept us afloat during lockdowns, and we’ve even had subscribers stay with the subscription the whole time. We are truly grateful to them because without them we would probably be closed by now. We experimented with something a bit off-brand with that one, as it wasn’t only focused on Filipino Food - we incorporated different cuisines to keep it interesting. We also noticed that many Filipino restaurants are the ones not performing well in terms of take-out operations because of the mentality that you can just cook it at home. 

You decided to offer takeaway/delivery quite early on. Why, and how has the response been?

Yes, we offer takeaway and delivery, but it is not sustainable. Dine-in is, and always will be superior in my opinion. For some time our servers were also our riders, but takeaway/delivery does not guarantee you [a] stable revenue, even if you cut overhead expenses. Your profit will still be way smaller. Takeaway generates too much expense and waste.

What unexpected opportunities arose from the pandemic for you?

We were able to explore new products and dishes, and we were offered some collaborative projects too. The tres leches actually was a result of the lockdown, which we have since adapted to our regular menu, and it has been a strong player ever since.

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Lampara's Tanigue
Above Lampara's Tanigue

How did the pandemic impact your cooking and eating habits, whether at home or at the restaurant?

It made us more creative; we were able to experiment with other techniques and cuisines that we have now integrated to our current menu. Through Lampara Lite, we explored other cuisines and developed some concepts that are feasible even if another lockdown takes place.

What did you learn about yourself outside of work during these challenging times? Did you pick up any new skills, hobbies or passions during the pandemic? 

Personally, I was happy to see that I can still create dishes beyond our restaurant’s Filipino cuisine, and that I can still make addictive desserts and other products. My management skills and administrative skills were put to the test because some members of our team resigned and so we needed to wear additional hats to absorb their responsibilities. I was also able to touch on my restaurant and kitchen design skills using CAD [Computer Aided Design], just like when we were conceptualising Lampara at the start. I even picked up the habit of cleaning and disinfecting my home; I now have a cabinet full of different disinfectants and cleaning solutions. I’m proud of it, haha!

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Lampara Restaurant - A Neo-Filipino Bistro
Above Lampara Restaurant - A Neo-Filipino Bistro

What challenges did you overcome as a restaurateur/chef? 

I still don’t think I deserve the title of Chef, because it takes years of experience to earn that designation - I’ve just started. The responsibilities and duties of a chef do not end in the kitchen, it’s all around. I’m still learning. As is the case with a lot of people, the pandemic is that really difficult road that we all need to walk, but at the end of it we will come out stronger. Still, that does not mean that you have completely overcome those challenges, but it does make you stronger. I’m probably still in the process of overcoming these challenges myself. It has really been problem after problem, and every time you feel like you have that moment of peace, another issue immediately presents itself, and you have to greet it with rationale and a clear mind… as much as possible.

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Lampara Restaurant
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Lampara Restaurant In Poblacion

What advice do you have to other restaurateurs and chefs? 

I know I said that it is difficult to look far ahead, but it would be nice to have a small flowchart in your head. As someone who owns a restaurant that’s braving the pandemic, don’t only focus on cooking or what happens in the kitchen. There’s more to it than that. Be logical with your decisions, and if you can manage the risks of your decisions, then do it. You are not alone - you have a team, and you work with that team together as a family. You have a sea of responsibilities; let your team help you navigate. They have your back, and you’ve got theirs. Don’t be a superstar.

How do you think consumers/diners can best support you and the F&B industry in the short term, and the longer-term - especially the Poblacion and restaurant-bar scene in particular?

I just pray for their continued support, and that they do not lose interest in trying new things or going back to revisit the wonderful experiences they’ve had.

What do you think the future holds for F&B in the PH? And looking further into the future, how do you think restaurants, bars, and the experience of dining out will change as a result of the pandemic?

Fear would likely linger after the pandemic. A stigma will probably develop for those who got infected while going out. The only thing we can do is prove that having a memorable experience while being safe is still feasible.

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Lampara
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2/F 5883 Enriquez Street, Poblacion, Makati City, Metro Manila

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