Cover Photo: Facebook / Mathew Leong
Photo: Facebook / Mathew Leong
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The Singapore-born, Norway-based chef shares his favourite restaurants and food cities with Tatler Dining
Singaporean chef Mathew Leong earned his stripes in the kitchens of Tippling Club, Fisk and Open Farm Community, before leaving for Norway at the age of 21. He got his big break there when he became the chef de partie of two-Michelin-starred Re-Naa, before moving on to becoming À L'aise’s head chef in 2018.
Always looking for the next big challenge, Leong also competed in the prestigious Bocuse d’Or culinary competition last year and finished strong in the Top 12.
Since then, he has returned to Re-Naa, his first restaurant in Norway, as its executive chef. Here, he continues to create tantalising dishes that offer a fresh take on Scandinavian fare.
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Despite his busy schedule, Leong will be back home next week to be part of the Michelin Guide Singapore’s 2022 star revelation and gala dinner. He will be joined by local and international chefs, who’ll whip up a six-course dinner menu that pays tribute to Singaporean cuisine.
Before the big event, we catch up with Leong to find out what he’s been up to and ask for recommendations on which food cities to visit.
Which chef has the biggest influence on you professionally to date?
Mathew Leong (ML): Sven Erik Renaa, the chef owner of two-Michelin-starred restaurant Re-Naa, who’s also my boss and mentor. He was the one who provided me the opportunity to work in Norway seven years ago.
After completing my National Service, I wanted to work abroad for a year to gain experience in a whole new different environment. I remember sending out over 100 resumes to renowned restaurants around the world and chef Sven Erik was one of the few that replied to me.
He offered me the role of chef de partie and without hesitation, I packed my bag and left for Stavanger, Norway when I was 21. If it wasn’t for this opportunity, I would not be where I am today and would not have experienced so many career milestones to date. This includes holding the executive chef position at 28 and being the youngest chef to represent Singapore to compete in Bocuse d’Or 2021.
What is an ingredient you can’t live without?
ML: Butter. It holds the key to giving food a rich flavour.
What is a movie that you think every chef should watch?
ML: Glengarry Glen Ros. One of my favourite dialogues in the movie is: “When you die, you’re going regret the things you didn’t do.”
Other than the memorable dialogues, the movie also taught me two valuable lessons. The first one is that focus and hard work breed success. The movie highlights the importance of setting goals for ourselves, as it gives us direction in life. If we are unhappy with where we are right now, do something to change instead of just sitting there, being unhappy and complaining while not doing anything.
The second valuable lesson is to think out of the box and find the best route to success. In life, things won’t always go our way. But instead of feeling dejected or frustrated, we need to find ourselves a new and different solution. While change can be scary, we need it to provide us with a whole new perspective.
Favourite food city/foodie travel destination?
ML: Definitely Japan, a country that offers many unique food experiences. Every city has its own seasonal produce and signature dish which best represents the city. It provides a wide variety of dishes that are all different on their own.
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Which chef would you most like to cook with—dead or alive?
ML: Chef Geir Skeie, a Norwegian chef and restaurateur, winner of the Bocuse d'Or Europe 2008 and the Bocuse d'Or Final 2009.
Throughout my career, I have heard a lot about all the great Scandinavian chefs, including chef Geir Skeie. He was only 29 years old when he was crowned the champion at the Bocuse d'Or world final in 2009. I remember I was only 15 when I read about this and since then, he has always been my inspiration. At that time, I told myself that I wanted to make history and be the youngest Asian contestant to clinch the top spot at the Bocuse d’Or Final, a biennial world chef championship in Lyon, France, and put Singapore on the global culinary stage.
Last year, I got to experience my first Bocuse d’Or competition as the youngest candidate to represent Singapore.
What’s the best restaurant you’ve ever eaten at?
ML: Silvio Nickol in Vienna, Austria. They serve really excellent dishes that are definitely worth a detour!
It’s your last meal—what’s on the menu?
ML: Singapore hawker food definitely, including orh jian (fried oyster omelete), Hokkien mee, prawn noodles, chilli crab and chicken rice.
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Amanda Goh was the former senior writer for Tatler Singapore.
