Amber Pong of The Headless Baker (Photo: Darren Gabriel Leow)
Cover Amber Pong of The Headless Baker (Photo: Darren Gabriel Leow)

In this three-part series, we talk to savvy young chefs who are injecting new life into the time-honoured trade

Loaves of icing-frosted lemon cakes sprinkled with chopped rose petals and pistachios and rows of dainty canelés and financiers line the counter. No, you are not in a hipster cafe, but at The Headless Baker stall in Ghim Moh Food Centre, which opened in January last year. Owner Amber Pong, 31, offers an unusual sight and aroma in the hawker centre—around 20 types of confections, from teacakes, scones to sable cookies.

Also drawing eyeballs is the stall’s signboard where its tongue-in-cheek name, which translates to “headless corpse” in Cantonese, is inscribed. The name captures Pong’s offbeat and free-spirited attitude, which is expressed through the stall’s decor. A pink “Good Vibes Only” poster screams for attention among the shelves crammed with baking supplies.

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Like her stall’s façade, Pong’s baking journey is not typical. In 2018, she left her sales and marketing job to pursue her baking hobby on a year-long working holiday. She recounts: “Although my job was stable, it was not purposeful. It felt right to drop everything to pursue my passion when I wasn’t too old.”

However, the trip was not all about lofty dreams—she was armed with a vision: learn all she could from pastry shops to start her business back home. She worked as a pastry chef at Agathé Patisserie in Melbourne, learning all about French pastries, incorporating seasonal fruit into her bakes and how to operate a bakery. She also gained bread making experience at the Starter Lab bakery here.

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The hawker centre was Pong’s first choice to start her bakery as she saw a lack of well-made and eye-catching cakes there. “People from all walks of life visit hawker centres; there are no barriers when it comes to hawker food,” she says. “I grew up with affordable hawker food and want to bring value back to society through food.”

Opening a hawker stall also made business sense given that Pong’s initial start-up costs were about $5,000—four times lower than the typical start-up cost of a hawker stall. She was part of the National Environment Agency’s Incubation Stall Programme, which gives aspiring hawkers a 50 per cent rental rebate for the first nine months, followed by a 25 per cent rental rebate for the next six months. She was also allocated a stall pre-fitted with metal shelving. The lower start-up costs enabled Pong to sell her bakes at wallet-friendly prices. The stall’s bakes have been a surprise hit among middle-aged customers in the sleepy Ghim Moh neighbourhood—some have mistaken her squarish teacakes in flavours like earl grey lavender for fried beancurd. Part of The Headless Baker’s draw, she says, is due to its “mascot”—her affable 67-year-old retiree father who engages with customers.

Business has been brisk, with up to 1,000 to 1,200 items sold on weekends. The dining restrictions during the pandemic did little to dampen the insatiable demand for baked goods. Pong introduced new products such as pastry boxes and joined delivery platform Pickupp to manage growing demand.

Her top tip to aspiring hawkers? Have a good product before thinking about branding and marketing. She explains: “Customers in hawker centres are very direct—if they don’t like your food, they simply will not return.” This means that her team of four bakers are constantly on their toes, brainstorming new flavours and improving the quality of bakes.

Nurturing her staff also plays a crucial role to ensure the sustainability of her hawker business. “There has to be a succession plan for your team—be willing to teach and delegate so that your staff can be empowered and see a future with you,” she muses.

Her team will have bigger shoes to fill as Pong expanded her business to start The Headless Baker & Sons cafe at The Star Vista in late July. The cafe, which is four times larger than the hawker stall, allows her team to make croissants, puff pastries, cakes and serve coffee. Beaming with pride, she says: “The hawker stall has been a stepping stone to achieving my dream of creating a full-fledged bakery experience.”

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