Leela

Chef Manav Tuli treats Indian cuisine like a living language, something that shifts and grows depending on the conversation in the kitchen. The tandoor is the beating heart of the room, though it’s rarely used in the expected way. Yes, breads emerge blistered and fragrant, but the clay oven is also where some of the more interesting ideas happen. Squid hits the heat and comes back with that unmistakable smoky edge. In season, even hairy crab has found its way through the furnace, picking up a subtle char that feels both surprising and completely natural once you taste it. What makes the place memorable is a chef who keeps asking himself what else his cooking can do. One meal may lean more towards the comfort of northern Indian spice; another might carry the influence of Chinese cuisine. Either way, you leave with the feeling that the kitchen is thinking, testing and adjusting—never content with repeating yesterday’s ideas.

Tatler Tip

If you see something unusual coming out of the tandoor, order it. The oven is where the kitchen experiments most, and it’s often where the most interesting dishes appear.