Cover Entrance counter at Bombay Sweet Shop
Entrance counter at Bombay Sweet Shop
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Gastronomic mogul Hussain Shahzad dishes on his playful Indian restaurant Papa’s, and shares his top spots for wining and dining in his home city
The next time you plan a holiday centred around dining, consider Mumbai in India which has gained a reputation for its dynamic and evolving dining scene over the past few years. Hussain Shahzad, the Mumbai-based executive chef at Hunger Inc Hospitality (which is famed for The Bombay Canteen, Papa’s, O Pedro and Veronica) knows this all too well.
Shahzad observes that two factors drive this evolution in the city’s dining landscape. First, is the rise of junior talents who champion heritage above all, working earnestly with Indian ingredients, food and techniques. As he puts it: “These chefs, many [of whom] trained abroad in high-end Michelin-starred kitchens, return to India with a deep sense of pride, applying their skills to indigenous ingredients while reviving older traditions that were at risk of fading away,” elaborates the chef.
Read more: Food trip to India, guided by chef Palash Mitra of Michelin fame
Above Executive chef Hussain Shahzad of Mumbai-based executive chef at Hunger Inc Hospitality
Executive chef Hussain Shahzad of Mumbai-based executive chef at Hunger Inc Hospitality
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The second, Shahzad says, is the belief and faith that restaurateurs and chefs have in Mumbai’s diners. “We are creators in the creator economy, and we are driven to keep innovating,” he comments on the growing appreciation for India’s regional cuisines and spotlighting of lesser-known local dishes.
At his restaurant Papa’s, for example, Shahzad offers a refined yet playful interpretation of familiar tastes and memories with unexpected ingredient combinations and techniques. He describes dining at Papa’s as an equivalent to visiting a friend’s home in Bandra, Mumbai: “Our goal is to redefine fine dining in India by breaking stereotypes and infusing personality into our food.”
When Shahzad isn’t in the kitchen at his restaurants, he makes sure that he also explores the dining scene to support local talent and their creativity. Here are five of his top picks:
1. Chaitanya, Dadar
“Malvani cuisine in Mumbai is more than just food—it’s a link to the region’s vibrant culture, and Chaitanya is the place to experience it. The menu offers authentic seafood and meat thalis (a selection of various dishes served on a platter), featuring options like pomfret, surmai, chicken and mutton. Each thali includes six to eight preparations, plus rice, roti and sol kadi. For the best experience, go for the fresh catch of the day. End your meal with the modak, a sweet dumpling filled with jaggery, coconut and cardamom—perfect for a true Malvani culinary adventure.”
Chaitanya
Address: 33, Raobahadur SK Bole Road, Dadar West, Prabhadevi, Mumbai, Maharashtra 400028, India, +91 97699 09030
2. Soam, Babulnath
“Soam is a beloved Gujarati-seasonal restaurant offering delicious, hearty, all-vegetarian dishes. Located near Girgaum Chowpatty in South Mumbai, it’s famous for its dal dhokli, the iconic palak cheese samosas and so much more. There’s also lip-smacking paani puri which is an absolute crowd favourite, and its chaat, like shakarkandi ki chaat and dahi vada, which I absolutely love. Specials such as undhiyu and aamras puri platter showcase the restaurant’s commitment to seasonality. Soam is where comforting, high-quality vegetarian food meets a warm, welcoming atmosphere.”
Soam
Address: Sadguru Sadan, Ground Floor, Babulnath Road, Babulnath, Chowpatty, Mumbai, Maharashtra 400007, India, +91 22 2369 8080
3. Bombay Sweet Shop, Bandra
“For a contemporary take on traditional Indian sweets and chaat, visit Bombay Sweet Shop in Bandra. This all-vegetarian mithai shop and café offers speciality coffees and a late-night dessert menu to satisfy those sugar cravings. Delight in the gulab jamun churros, pillowy soft mawa churros, dipped in saffron syrup and served with pistachio-white chocolate or pepper-dark chocolate sauce. Don’t miss the avocado papdi chaat, with house-made chutneys atop crispy papdis, or the “Chole Bhature” mezze, a spicy-tangy chole hummus, served with sun-dried tomatoes, goat cheese labneh, and baked bhatura. It’s a must-visit for innovative treats.”
Bombay Sweet Shop
Address: JAK Compound, Dadoji Konddeo Cross Lane, Byculla, Mumbai, India, Maharashtra, +91 91361 92636
4. Papa’s, Bandra
“Papa’s is a 12-seater chef’s counter restaurant hidden inside Veronica’s sandwich shop in Bandra. It offers a tasting menu that's Indian at heart but full of surprises. Try dishes like bebinca with celeriac, black truffle paste, and dates, or rasam with trout, watermelon clear rasam, lime leaf oil and roe. Don’t miss the Kashmir-inspired Wellington with lamb, morel mushrooms and korma sauce. For cocktails, the Sea Biscuit with clam-infused gin, basil, and fennel, or Papa’s Hut, a vodka-based cocktail with marinara sauce, are must-tries. Papa’s is where fine dining meets fun, casual vibes.”
Papa’s
Address: 3R3G+JMX Veronica’s, Waroda Road, Ranwar, Bandra West, Mumbai, Maharashtra 400050, India, +91 77388 95597
5. Americano, Fort
“Americano is where the energy of the bar and the open kitchen vibe create a lively, stylish atmosphere. Start with the sashimi-style sea bass crudo, paired with a zesty caper and pine nut condiment. The Brussels sprouts with almonds, apricot, and crispy onions are a must-try, and the roast chicken with herb-sourdough stuffing and tangy salsa verde is a standout dish. The custom gold-tiled oven serves up perfect Neapolitan-style pizzas, while creative cocktails like the Shiro Whey with Pisco, roasted pineapple, miso and porcini sherry, elevate the experience. Don’t miss their tiramisu, amongst the best in town.”
Americano
Address: 121/123 Radha Bhavan, Nagindas Master Road, Kala Ghoda, Fort, Mumbai, Maharashtra 400001, India, +91 93211 04682
