Tatler’s watch and jewellery editor, a native Mumbaikar, writes an insiders guide to the city’s culture, hidden gems and must-visit spots: from street food delights to glamorous nightlife, discover the heart and soul of India’s financial capital and Bollywood hub
Growing up in Mumbai, I always felt the city’s heartbeat as my own. It’s a place that pulses with life 24/7, where the monsoon rains paint romantic scenes straight out of Bollywood films, and where fashion is an effortless blend of casual cool and bold sass.
Before I traded the Arabian Sea for Victoria Harbour and became the watch and jewellery editor at Tatler Hong Kong, Mumbai was my whole world. This city isn’t just a dot on the map; it’s a living, breathing entity with a personality of its own. From the aromatic street food stalls to the glittering high-rises, Mumbai is a sensory feast that never fails to surprise and delight. It’s where ancient traditions dance cheek-to-cheek with cutting-edge modernity, and where every street corner tells a story.
As someone who’s navigated its busy lanes and quiet nooks, I’m thrilled to be your guide to the Mumbai I know and love. Let me take you on a journey through the hidden gems, must-visit spots, and local favourites that make this city truly special. Whether you’re a first-time visitor or a seasoned traveller, I promise you’ll discover a side of Mumbai that goes beyond the guidebooks and into the heart of what makes this city so magical.
Here’s how you can embrace its chaotic charm and vibrant spirit.
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What to see in Mumbai?

Above The iconic Taj Mahal Palace Hotel in Mumbai (Photo: courtesy of Avinash A / Unsplash)
Among its most iconic landmarks is the Gateway of India, overlooking the Arabian Sea, built to commemorate the visit of King George V and Queen Mary in 1911. This Indo-Saracenic structure is not only a symbol of Mumbai’s colonial past but also a popular starting point for boat rides to the historic Elephanta Caves, a Unesco World Heritage Site featuring ancient rock-cut temples dedicated to the Indian God Shiva.
Another architectural marvel is the Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Terminus (CSMT), a Unesco World Heritage Site and an example of Victorian gothic architecture. Designed by British architect Frederick William Stevens, this historic railway station is a bustling transport hub.
Marine Drive, known as Queen’s Necklace, is a promenade that offers views of the Arabian Sea and the city skyline—a location that can be seen time and again in Bollywood movies. The iconic Taj Mahal Palace Hotel, adjacent to the Gateway of India, is another landmark that stands as a symbol of luxury and heritage. Commissioned by Jamshetji Tata and opened in 1903, it has hosted numerous dignitaries and celebrities over the years.
The hotel’s legacy, however, extends beyond its opulent interiors and world-class hospitality. On November 26, 2008, the Taj became a focal point during the terrorist attacks on Mumbai, enduring a three-day siege that left a mark on the city’s history.
Today, the Taj Mahal Palace Hotel offers a unique historical tour that provides insights into the events of 26/11. This tour takes visitors through the hotel’s journey from that fateful night to its remarkable recovery, showcasing the courage of its staff and the resilience of Mumbai.
Another fun place to be is Juhu Beach, one of Mumbai’s most popular spots, known for its street food stalls and beautiful sunsets. For those interested in history, Mani Bhavan, the former residence of Mahatma Gandhi, is now a museum dedicated to his life and work. It houses photographs, letters and personal belongings, providing a deep insight into the life of the Father of the Nation.
And the Rajabai Clock Tower, located in the Fort area, is a historic clock tower built in 1878. It combines gothic and Indian architectural styles and is home to the University of Mumbai’s library. The tower’s chimes and intricate carvings make it a significant cultural and historical landmark.
Where to party in Mumbai?
If you’re the type who can’t resist busting a move right after dessert, Mumbai’s got your back. Neuma in Colaba is a stylish spot favoured by Bollywood celebrities, while Koishii offers a unique blend of Japanese-Peruvian cuisine. Bastian At The Top in Dadar, co-owned by Bollywood star Shilpa Shetty, is renowned for its seafood, cocktails and rooftop views. Slink & Bardot in Worli is famous for its French-inspired menu and intimate ambiance, and Olive Bandra is a Mediterranean haven popular for its thin-crust pizzas and tapas-style appetisers. Bonobo in Bandra is a favourite for its eclectic music and rooftop vibes, and 3 Stories Juhu provides a beachside party atmosphere with a diverse menu.
St Regis Mumbai, located in the Lower Parel area, is home to some of the city’s most exclusive nightclubs, making it a premier destination for nightlife enthusiasts. Luna, a club that plays a mix of live music and DJ sets, is located on the 37th floor of the hotel. For those seeking a more exclusive experience, the Penthouse St Regis offers a private members-only club with luxurious accommodations, exquisite dining and top-tier amenities. The Koi Bar within the Penthouse is perfect for enjoying surreal sunsets and a vibrant nightlife, complemented by tapas.
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What to eat in Mumbai?
Papas is a must-visit for foodies, but make sure to book a month in advance, because of its current popularity. Kuuraku, Izumi and Yazu are top choices for Japanese cuisine. Ling’s Pavilion is an all-time favourite for Indo-Chinese food and O Pedro brings Goan flavours to the forefront. The Bombay Canteen is celebrated for its innovative Indian fusion dishes and is popular among expats, while Celini at the Grand Hyatt and Gustoso serve authentic Italian cuisine.
For traditional Indian food, Madras Cafe is known for its South Indian delicacies, while Britannia & Co offers a nostalgic Irani cafe experience. Tanjore Tiffin Room, Bawri and Kebab Corner showcase regional specialties, Oye Kake serves Punjabi dishes, and Aswad is famous for its Maharashtrian cuisine.
Fine dining enthusiasts should not miss Masque, known for its ingredient-driven concept and 10-course tasting menu, Indian Accent in Bandra Kurla Complex for its modern Indian cuisine, and Yauatcha for its contemporary dim sum and tea house experience.
Where to get the best coffee and tea in Mumbai?

Above Boojee cafe is the go-to place if you’re looking for a caffeine fix (Photo: instagram / @boojeecafe)
The city that never sleeps must need a generous dose of caffeine. Subko, a specialty coffee roaster and bakehouse, has quickly become a favourite among connoisseurs for its single-origin brews and artisanal baked goods. Blue Tokai, with multiple outlets across the city, is renowned for its freshly roasted beans and consistently excellent coffee. For a more bohemian vibe, Prithvi Cafe, nestled within the famous Prithvi Theatre, is a haven for artists and intellectuals. Javaphile and Third Wave cater to the new wave of coffee lovers with their expertly crafted beverages and modern ambiance.
Boojee, Veronica’s and Love Crummbs offer charming settings perfect for a relaxed brunch or afternoon tea, while Kala Ghoda Cafe is a time-tested popular spot in the art district. For those seeking a seaside experience, Ananda Cafe near the beach allows for a refreshing walk after your coffee fix. And if you’re looking for a hidden gem, G5a in Shakti Mills is your place.
My personal favourite is the Brooke Bond Taj Mahal Tea House located in the bylanes of Bandra. Order a smoky mountain tea with bun maska (buttered bread) with sitar music (music performed on a traditional Indian string instrument) playing in the background and melt into oblivion.
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What about street food and midnight munchies?

Above Mumbai’s very own burger, a potato fritter in a bread called vada pav (Photo: instagram / @cook_plate_eat_enjoy)
India’s financial captial takes its street food very seriously, because Mumbaikars are always on the go. Elco in Bandra is famous for its pani puri, a tangy and spicy street food favourite. Ashok Vada Pav in Dadar is a humble street stall that serves the quintessential Mumbai snack—vada pav. This spicy potato fritter sandwiched between a bun is the city’s answer to the burger and a must-try for any visitor.
Babulnath is renowned for its crispy dosa, a South Indian delicacy that has been adapted to Mumbai’s taste. And if you’re out for a long drive, take a pit stop at Bachelors, located near Chowpatty Beach, it is known for its refreshing smoothies and creamy ice creams, making it a popular spot for a late-night treat. Muchchad Paanwala, a legendary paan vendor offers a variety of paan (betel leaf preparations) that are both traditional and innovative, providing a perfect palate cleanser after a meal.
For those 3am munchies, Mumbai has several reliable options that cater to late-night cravings. Gokul Bite in Colaba, is known for its delicious chicken rolls at odd hours. Ayub’s in Fort is another popular spot, open until 4am, serving North Indian food and rolls that are perfect for a post-party snack. Another local favourite is, Bademiya in Colaba, an iconic roadside joint famous for its succulent mutton and chicken baida roti (egg roll), open until the early hours of the morning. And if stepping out isn’t an option, 24-hour home delivery services like Zomato and Swiggy ensure that a variety of late-night bites are just a few clicks away, providing everything from burgers and pizzas to Indian and Chinese food at your doorstep.
What are the local delicacies you cannot miss in Mumbai?

Above Gajalee is one of the old favourites for the city’s coastal cuisine, always offering fresh catch of the day (Photo: courtesy of instagram / gajaleerestaurantofficial)
There’s much to eat in Mumbai, so ensure you leave enough appetite for the city’s traditional seafood offerings. Mumbai’s seafood scene pays a tribute to its coastal heritage, with restaurants like Gajalee and Trishna standing as culinary landmarks. Gajalee, renowned for its North Indian-coastal fusion, offers delights like the signature tandoori crab, butter garlic lobsters and stuffed bombil (Bombay duck). Trishna, located in Kala Ghoda, is famed for its South Indian coastal cuisine, particularly the butter pepper garlic crab that’s put it on the global culinary map.
The city’s proximity to the Arabian Sea ensures a bounty of fresh catches, influencing its diverse culinary landscape shaped by Koli, Maharashtrian, Goan and Mangalorean traditions. Must-try local delicacies include the crispy bombil fry, succulent pomfret preparations, spicy surmai (king fish) curries and a variety of prawn dishes from the fiery koliwada (traditional curry which originated from Mumbai’s fishermen) to coconut-based curries. Crab dishes, whether butter garlic or tandoori style, are essential experiences. Tisrya (clams) in their spicy sukka or dry avatar and versatile rawas (Indian salmon) further showcase the breadth of Mumbai’s seafood offerings.
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Where to go for a drink in Mumbai?
For drinks with the best views, Dome at the InterContinental offers panoramic vistas of Marine Drive, Eau Bar at the Oberoi serves exquisite cocktails with a view of the Arabian Sea, and Cecconi’s at Soho House combines wines and Italian cuisine with stunning seaside views. Another great rooftop bar is Aer at Four Seasons Hotel, which boasts a selection of well-made cocktails to complement the skyline, making it perfect for date night or a relaxed evening with friends.
And if you are looking for an unobstructed view of the Gateway of India, head over to Bayview cafe in Colaba, where you can sip on a pint of beer and watch the waters ebb and flow.
Where’s a good place to shop?

Above FabIndia in Mumbai offers a range of traditional textiles, outfits, furniture, jewellery, tableware and more (Photo: courtesy of instagram / @fabindiaofficial)
Mumbai offers an exciting shopping experience, catering to various tastes and budgets. Here’s an elaboration on the shopping and cultural scene. FabIndia, a popular chain, showcases India’s rich handloom heritage, offering a wide range of clothing, home furnishings, and organic products. The Bombay Store, one of India’s oldest lifestyle retail chains, provides a curated selection of traditional Indian crafts, modern design products, and souvenirs.
For men seeking custom-made clothing, Bombay Shirt Company specialises in bespoke shirts, allowing customers to design their own pieces with a variety of fabrics and styles that fit like a glove. Ogaan India and Kalki are known for their affordable Indian wear, offering a mix of traditional and contemporary designs. These stores are perfect for those looking for stylish ethnic wear without breaking the bank. Pernia’s Pop-up Shop is a go-to destination for designer wear, featuring collections from both established and emerging Indian designers. It’s an excellent place to find high-end Indian fashion.
For luxury shopping, Jio World Plaza in Bandra Kurla Complex and Palladium Mall at High Street Phoenix in Lower Parel are premier destinations. These malls house a mix of international luxury brands and high-end Indian designers, catering to the city’s affluent shoppers.
Colaba Causeway is a must-visit for street shopping enthusiasts. This bustling street market offers a wide array of products, from clothing and accessories to souvenirs and knick-knacks, all at reasonable prices. It’s an opportunity to practice your negotiating skills. Tatler tip: always start at half the price quoted by the vendor.
For beauty lovers, India offers a range of organic Ayurvedic, organic beauty products that are a must-try. Forest Essentials is a luxury Ayurvedic brand that combines ancient Indian beauty rituals with modern aesthetics, offering products made from natural ingredients and traditional formulations. Kama Ayurveda is another renowned brand that emphasises authentic Ayurvedic treatments and remedies, providing a wide range of skincare, haircare, and wellness products crafted with pure, natural ingredients. Dyu is a rising star in the Ayurvedic beauty market, known for its commitment to sustainability and holistic wellness, offering products that harness the power of nature to nourish and rejuvenate the skin.
Crawford Market, one of the oldest markets in Mumbai, offers a vibrant shopping experience with its eclectic collection of goods ranging from fresh produce to pets and imported food items. Opened in 1869, it remains a bustling hub of activity. This is also the ideal place to get a good deal on traditional gold, silver and gemstone jewellery shopping.
How is Mumbai’s art and culture scene?
Art and culture is ingrained in the very fabric of India and Mumbai has its own unique way of expressing it. NMACC (Nita Mukesh Ambani Cultural Centre) is a new addition to Mumbai’s cultural landscape, offering world-class performances, broadway shows and exhibitions across various art forms. Meanwhile, Jehangir Art Gallery, located in the Kala Ghoda art district, is a renowned venue for contemporary art exhibitions, showcasing works by both established and emerging artists.
One of the other iconic destinations for theatre lovers in India is NCPA (National Centre for the Performing Arts). It is India’s premier cultural institution, hosting a wide range of performances including music, dance, and theatre. Prithvi Theatre, founded by industry veteran Shashi Kapoor, is a landmark venue for theatre enthusiasts, known for its intimate setting and high-quality productions. These cultural venues offer visitors a chance to immerse themselves in Mumbai’s vibrant arts scene, from traditional performances to cutting-edge contemporary works.
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