Cover Food spread at Tribal (Photo: Ebb & Flow Group)
Food spread at Tribal (Photo: Ebb & Flow Group)
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The modern Asian grill is just one of three upcoming concepts at the Mondrian Singapore Duxton, powered by online boutique Modern Provision
Eating is fundamentally a social act. Be it intricate meals or hearty plates designed to be eaten with hands, our instinct for companionship as we eat is probably as old as our ancestors who sat by woodfire and made simple meals out of game. At Tribal, the newest grill concept at the Mondrian Singapore Duxton opening tomorrow January 16, it is this ethos of communal dining that shapes its creative dishes, which are nevertheless grounded in the millennia-old tradition of woodfire grilling.
Tribal is the first of three upcoming concepts by F&B group Ebb & Flow at the Mondrian Singapore Duxton, which will be powered by online grocer Modern Provision. As unassuming as its dark storefront is, step through and you’ll find yourself in a different world accented by rattan walls and ceilings draped with rattan macramé, hand-woven by Indonesian weaving atelier BYO Living. The restaurant is renowned architecture firm Andra Matin Studio’s first retail project in Singapore, meant to mimic the warmth and glow of traditional houses in Southeast Asia. But make no mistake—with its cut-work light fixtures, counter seats and a large communal table for bigger gatherings, there is an undeniable seductiveness to the space.
Above Small sharing plates at Tribal
Small sharing plates at Tribal
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Helmed by executive chef Keith Wan, the food carries distinctive inspirations all across Asia, including the rich culinary cultures of the Chinese, Filipino, Indonesian, Japanese, and more. Sustainability informs Wan’s approach, alongside ethically sourced produce, free-range meat, and support for small-scale farmers. The result? Surprising dishes that still retain a touch of familiarity. Take the yellowtail umai, where South American ceviche meets Sarawakian spice with kaffir lime, chilli and garlic perfuming yellowtail slices. Or the duck neck, an oft-unused part of the duck that’s deep-fried to a perfect crisp and coated in an addictive house spice blend. (The rest of the duck is then dry-aged for 14 days for a main course.)
Above Santori organic kampung chicken at Tribal
Santori organic kampung chicken at Tribal
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Elsewhere, the Santori organic kampung chickens are sourced from Malaysia, where they are fed MD2 pineapple enzymes to imbue their meat with a natural sweetness. Glazed in gai yang (a traditional Thai marinade) and slow-roasted over coals, this dish is made for sharing. An entire octopus tentacle is also ideal for gatherings, which is gently cooked sous-vide before charring over coals for ideal texture and flavour. And for those who love their rice, the rice pots are not to be missed. Blending styles of Indonesian-Malaysian claypot rice and Japanese donabe, the rice pots come in versions of wild mushroom, Wagyu, and seafood, each coming with premium ingredients; the mushroom version comes with confit and pickled mushrooms and topped with black truffle gratings.
Above ‘Sugar and Spice’ cocktail at Tribal
‘Sugar and Spice’ cocktail at Tribal
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Sustainability runs through the wine programme too, with a range of biodynamic and organic wines amongst its extensive list of over 160 labels. Imbibers keen on pairing their woodfire dishes with bold cocktails will find what they are looking for with head bartender Lafiama B Wright’s succinct drinks menu. The “Sugar and Spice”, for instance, sees dark rum infused with Sichuan peppercorns mixed with bitters and a homemade mace and cinnamon syrup for a drink that punches above its weight. But for something more refreshing, opt for the “You’re Pretty Cuke”, a clean libation that stars Hendricks gin with homemade cucumber and lime oleo and topped up with prosecco. For the sober-curious crowd, sip on the zero-proof cocktails which are just as thoughtfully curated as their alcoholic counterparts, such as the preserved plum Earl Grey drink.
“Food connects people and we want to convey that sense of community and warmth,” Wan says of the restaurant. “Everything at Tribal is done collaboratively so that we can exchange ideas and express what we’ve learned onto a plate.” If eating is fundamentally a social act, then at Tribal, the opportunity to share with others an intimate moment of sustenance and nourishment is golden.
About
Ethan is a dining writer with Tatler Singapore. Trained in literary arts and filmmaking, their work has previously been published in Esquire Singapore, Men's Folio, and with the Asian Film Archive and the Singapore International and Film Festival, across a wide range of interests from gastronomy to fashion and arts criticism.
Work
Ethan writes about exciting news in the F&B industry, specialising in fine dining, exclusive spirits launches, and new restaurants. They are always looking for riveting voices to bring something fresh to an already-dynamic industry.
Follow them on Instagram at @faustiangourmand.
