Cover Roganic’s return brings a calmer, warmer restaurant, matched by cooking that feels as clear-minded as ever
Roganic’s return brings a calmer, warmer restaurant, matched by cooking that feels as clear-minded as ever
1 / 1
A considered look at the new restaurants and bars that quickly proved their staying power
Every year brings restaurant openings, but only a few become the ones you actually think about on a Tuesday night when you’re hungry, tired or simply in need of something that make you feel something. And what sets these openings apart was the ease with which they joined my routines, my cravings and my calendar.
At the beginning of the year, Roganic returned, and I was genuinely pleased to welcome them back. Walking into the new space feels like stepping into a wooden cocoon: calm, warm, softened at the edges. The cooking is as clear-minded as ever, fresh and bright in the way Roganic does so well, but with a few comforting renditions of their signatures that feel like seeing an old friend. The non-alcoholic pairing remains one of the most thoughtful in the city, and is every bit as considered as the wine list.
Above Bright, thoughtful plates and one of the city’s most considered non-alcoholic pairings
Bright, thoughtful plates and one of the city’s most considered non-alcoholic pairings
1 / 1
New Tokyo import Torikaze is for when a very specific longing for proper Japanese yakitori hits. The kind where the charcoal offers depth, seasoning is instinctive and pacing feels like conversation. Yoshiteru Ikegawa brings exactly that to the 44th floor of Forty-Five in Central. Nothing is forced or over-embellished. It’s the kind of place you visit not to be surprised, but to be steadied. And sometimes, that’s the point.
Above Charcoal-driven yakitori by Yoshiteru Ikegawa, served with quiet confidence on the 44th floor of Forty-Five
Charcoal-driven yakitori by Yoshiteru Ikegawa, served with quiet confidence on the 44th floor of Forty-Five
1 / 1
Jean-Pierre, on the other hand, is romance dressed as a bistro. It is a date-night essential. Not because it tries to be seductive, but because a touch of well-placed whimsy is more than enough to win you over. From Gnocchi Parisienne folded into rich morel cream to profiteroles filled with vanilla gelato, finished tableside with a generous pour of dark chocolate. Factor in a Cornichon Martini and the evening starts looking rather pleased with itself—as will you.
Above Golden French fries and a cornichon martini—the sort of date that doesn’t need explaining
Above Profiteroles filled with vanilla gelato, finished tableside with a generous pour of dark chocolate
Golden French fries and a cornichon martini—the sort of date that doesn’t need explaining
1 / 2
Twist Pasta Bar scratches a different itch entirely: the desire for pasta that holds its own while speaking to those who love Hong Kong. The team manages this without awkward fusion gestures: shrimp roe, bone marrow, egg rolls and tofu pudding are blended in with such ease that you barely register the cleverness, only the comfort. It’s playful, but grounded, and never tries to outsmart pasta.
Above Pasta, done properly, with just enough local accent to feel like home
Above A relaxed room where pasta leads and everything else falls into place
Pasta, done properly, with just enough local accent to feel like home
1 / 2
On Gough Street, Mius has quickly become the bar I recommend when someone asks, “Where should we meet that isn’t trying too hard?” Shelley Tai has answered that question with a room that is beautifully designed without being self-conscious, modern classic cocktails and food that hits the sweet spot between snack and supper. It’s a bar with personality, not attitude.
Above Modern classic cocktails and food that lands neatly between snack and supper
Modern classic cocktails and food that lands neatly between snack and supper
1 / 1
And then there is Bakehouse at The Peak, which, against all odds, has given me a reason to hike. I won’t pretend this is typical behaviour, but the payoff is obvious the moment you reach the counter. A char siu turnover and mala spring onion danish are decisive arguments for altitude, and confirm that this bakery knows exactly how the city, and I, like to eat.
Above The char siu turnover is flaky, savoury and reason enough to make the climb
Above A mala spring onion danish that leans spicy, savoury and unmistakably Asian
The char siu turnover is flaky, savoury and reason enough to make the climb
1 / 2
A storyteller by day and a first-class food devourer by night, Fontaine is the Regional Dining Editor at Tatler Asia, overseeing dining content across all regions and shaping the brand’s editorial voice on food, chefs and culinary culture.
She is also Content Lead for Tatler Best and Co-jury Head for Tatler Best Hong Kong and Macau, guiding the awards’ editorial direction and evaluation process. With over a decade in the lifestyle and media industry spanning London and Hong Kong, she brings a cross-regional perspective to the table.
Follow her on Instagram at @fontimes.
