Cover Rinto Sasagawa
Rinto Sasagawa
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Sushi Takahashi ignites the local omakase scene with 24-year-old prodigy chef Rinto Sasagawa leading the culinary charge
Along the fancy shophouses on the Mohamed Sultan stretch, there’s a sushi sanctuary waiting to be discovered. Step into the peaceful space and you’ll be greeted by a zen Japanese garden flanking the 12-seater sushi counter. Once settled in, you’re encouraged to partake in raking about in the miniature karesansui placed in front of you along with some tea—perhaps to calm the senses for what’s to come. For the uninitiated, you’re in the serene abode of Takahashi Singapore, the first and only outpost of the cult omakase restaurant masterminded by luminary chef Jun Takahashi.
If anything, the Takahashi namesake is revered in the sushi world as he carved a name for himself when he dedicated six years at former three-Michelin-starred Sushi Saito in Tokyo. After leaving to inaugurate his own haven, Sushi Takahashi quickly rose to fame among the Ginza’s elite, infamously boasting six-month waitlists and a fervent cult following. The international debut in Singapore sees Takahashi appointing chef Rinto Sasagawa—his protege of eight years—to lead the charge.
Thanks to Takahashi’s avant-garde approach when it comes to mentorship, Sasagawa benefited from his mentor’s didactic methods that eschew the traditionalist silences of the sushi world. Blessed with innate talent and armed with profound knowledge that has seen him surpass many seasoned maestros, the prodigious 24-year-old is now primed to present the sublime artistry of Takahashi to the increasingly discerning gourmand on an international scale.
In case you missed it: Meet the illustrious Japanese chef who left his Michelin-starred Ginza restaurant of nine years to helm Zuicho Singapore
Above Karesansui zen garden platter
Karesansui zen garden platter
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Charting the rich traditions of Japanese culinary art, Sasagawa strikes a harmonious balance with sophistication, flair and modernity. In the signature karesansui zen garden platter, he kicks off with a bounty of the season’s freshest catch: think slivers of seasonal yellowtail sashimi, gently laced with yuzu and ginger; brackish slurps of seaweed and oyster; creamy monkfish liver, aged for a week in a secret sweet yet savoury sauce created by Sasagawa that reminds of Takahashi’s original take.
With a sprinkle of spontaneity, Sasagawa presents a cheeky segment by serving up two types of eels, anago (saltwater eel) and unagi (freshwater eel), both expertly grilled over charcoal. Only after you’ve made your guess, does he then reveal the answer and explain how to tell the difference. Accompaniments of sansho pepper, seaweed crystal salt and freshly grated wasabi offer a multi-dimensional tasting experience. Later, the ultra silky chawanmushi arrives with the comforting warmth of black pepper, whimsical floral notes and sweetness from snow crab, reminiscent of Chinese double-boiled soup.
Above Menuke
Menuke
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When it comes to preparing the nigiri, Sasagawa turns it up a notch with pulsating energy from every shaping of the shari (vinegared rice). Displayed in the background, Jun Takahashi’s seminal sushi book watches over the sushi counter from the deft display of knife skills to interactive theatrics without the excess of drama.
Besides the luxurious cuts of marinated fatty tuna, standouts include the beautifully smoked sawara (Japanese Spanish mackerel) with hand-grinded scallion ginger paste; creamy ebi (shrimp) dusted with a heady prawn shell powder; Hokkaido nishin (herring) brushed with savoury soy; and the lesser-seen menuke (Hokkaido deep-sea rockfish), masterfully seared with a piece of hot binchotan charcoal, unlocking its rich fatty oils.
In the beverage realm, equal effort is being invested. The exquisite list includes rare cameos from Hakurakusei, often referred to as the ultimate food sake; the Tatenogawa Yamagata Masamune, made by the first junmai daijungo-only brewery of Yamagata and considered the perfect complement to Takahashi’s sushi rice; or even the contemporary Iwa5, crafted by the legendary Richard Geoffroy—former Dom Pérignon chef de cave.
Credits
Images: Takahashi
