Cover Início chef-owner Marcus Tan
Início chef-owner Marcus Tan
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Chef-owner Marcus Tan and his team of local chefs set out to make fine dining accessible with creative European fusion plates and low-intervention wines while paving the way for the next generation of local chefs
In the heartlands of Redhill lies Restaurant Início, a new contemporary European restaurant run by home-grown chefs: Marcus Tan, chef-owner; Ian Goh, head chef; and Zachariah Chow, sous chef. Início means “beginning” in Latin and for these young chefs, it marks the beginning of a culinary adventure that fuses their experiences, ranging from Michelin-starred fine-dining restaurants—think Saint Pierre, Iggy’s, Alma by Juan Amador, Lerouy and 28 Wilkie—and various hotels, to shake up Singapore’s fine-dining scene.
At the 38-seater restaurant, the trio intend to reach out to a broader audience by stripping away from the notion that fine foods are only to be served in a sterile setting.
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Above Restaurant Início main dining room
Restaurant Início main dining room
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“While we were growing up, eating out in a fine dining setting was a luxury and was only meant for special occasions,” shares Tan on behalf of his team when he spoke with Tatler Dining during a preview of Início. Doing away with starched white tablecloths, elaborate furnishings and formal service, Início channels much effort into research and sourcing quality ingredients that are cost-efficient in hopes of transferring the savings back to diners. However, it certainly does not lack in terms of providing a comfortable dining ambience and warm hospitality.
The cuisine at Início takes the form of progressive European but is liberally tinged with eclectic influences from around the region, childhood anecdotes and seasonality. “This allows us to work with flavours from all around the world without having to restrict our creativity,” shares Tan. But for good measure, guests can expect the menu to lean towards being more seafood-centric as well as the use of fruits. “We believe in harnessing natural sugars, acidity and zests from fruits. When paired together with our techniques, we’re looking to surprise diners even with the simplest-looking dish.”
Signature Seafood bouillabaisse
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In the a la carte selection, citrus-cured Japanese hamachi whets the appetite with pairings of zesty tomato and marigold vinaigrette, crisp textures of pickled daikon, and Russian hybrid caviar by Caviar Colony. Succulent Hokkaido scallops arrive lightly grilled with a moreish seaweed pistachio puree redolent of oceanic savouriness. There is also roasted miso-glazed black cod, served with a contrasting “Alsatian choucroute broth” made with sauerkraut and speck. It eats rich, smoky, and yet wonderfully acidic at all once. For sharing, consider the Início “bouillabaisse”, where a treasure trove of fresh seafood comes swimming in a decadent rouille spiced with homemade Thai red curry paste.
Want an encompassing experience? Opt for the chef’s dinner tasting menu. Having spent the past eight weeks in soft launch mode, Início gears up for the grand opening in mid-February. During lunch, the restaurant now offers an attractively priced three-course menu that rotates every two weeks where the team are free to explore potential ingredients. And depending on the feedback received, lunch dishes may or may not end up on the a la carte dinner menu in the future.
Above Início head chef Ian Goh
Início head chef Ian Goh
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As for the wine selection, you won’t find the usual suspects of flashy big names. Instead, wine enthusiasts could explore the modest list that includes small-batch producers and even minimal intervention winemakers from regions such as Jura, Aloxe-Corton and Hautes Côtes de Nuits. Goh, who attained the WSET Level 3 in Wines, is responsible for wine curation and intends to share his passion for vinous pours with guests. “Ultimately, the intention is to make wine and dine more approachable and relaxed,” he enthused.
Besides bridging the gap between producers and diners, Tan positions Início as a platform to inspire. On why Singaporean chefs need to have more equity in the fine-dining restaurant industry, Tan shares that while most chefs dream of starting something of their own, he also noticed that the younger generation today is less willing to take on a career as a chef due to glaring unfavourable working conditions.
But all’s not lost. “We feel that Início is an excellent platform for us to showcase our skill sets as well as to create a healthy working environment for the team,” expressed Tan. “To strive for a better future for up-and-coming chefs of this generation, change has to start with us.”
