This sushi chef with a cult following has finally opened his own restaurant, Sushi Oono

Ohno grew up in the Miyagi prefecture, located on the coast of Honshu island. His father was a fisherman, which meant that the young Ohno was “exposed to the freshest catches” of the day, as well as the “artistry” of preparing meals out of them. “Eating sashimi every day was not just a meal, but a ritual that connected me to the ocean and its offerings,” Ohno says. It’s not a leap to say that his childhood shaped the trajectory of his life, compelling him to become a sushi chef. “For me, seafood and sushi aren’t just food—they’re a representation of my heritage, culture, and upbringing. Each piece of fish carries with it the story of the sea, the hard work of the fishermen who caught it, and the skill of the chef who prepares it.”

His love for sushi led him to hone his skills at several sushi-yas in Ginza, before he eventually decided to uproot his life in Japan and head to Singapore. “As much as I love Japan, I yearned to explore new horizons and share my craft with a broader audience. Singapore, with its vibrant food scene and diverse culture, called out to me,” Ohno says. “I was particularly drawn by the opportunity to introduce authentic Edōmae sushi to this bustling city-state.” It was here that connoisseurs took notice of the cheerful chef behind the counter at Sushi Mieda, who quickly developed a cult following.

“When I had my first taste of his omakase [menu], I found the assertive flavours of his sushi very much to my liking,” food content creator Veronica Phua says. Recalling a previous autumn-winter special of confit Japanese oysters in olive oil, Phua also highlights the novelty of Ohno’s seasonal dishes. “Interestingly, whenever I would post about my meals by chef Ohno, a few chefs would send me messages to echo my sentiments.”

Throughout his years of experience, Ohno developed a respect for shikomi, or the preparation of each piece of sushi, from the curation of seafood to the preservation techniques designed to bring out the best flavour and texture. Deeply ingrained in the concept is also the idea of honouring tradition. “Chefs undergo years of training to master the techniques and principles passed down through generations to maintain the essence of Edōmae cuisine,” Ohno says. “Sushi is simple food, though ‘simple’ is the most difficult. Achieving perfection in simplicity requires a profound understanding of ingredients, techniques, and balance. It’s all about doing more with less.”

Read more: Meet the illustrious Japanese chef who left his Michelin-starred Ginza restaurant of nine years to helm Zuicho Singapore

At Sushi Oono, his precise attention to “doing more with less” goes down to perfecting the temperature of the shari (rice) for the nigiri. “Not too cold, as it can dull the flavours, and not too warm, which can affect the texture of the fish,” he says. Extra care even goes to the kanpyo (dried gourd), which is “soaked, boiled, and gently simmered” for up to two days, making for a “sweet yet savoury” filling for his maki. But it’s not all just about serving good sushi. “It’s [also] about creating a welcoming atmosphere and ensuring guests feel valued and cared for, which in turn fosters meaningful connections and enhances the dining experience, keeping guests coming back,” he says. 

Sushi Mieda closed in 2022, and up until now, Ohno had been looking for a permanent place to set up his own concept. He filled that time in between with a pop-up in the basement of Forum the Shopping Mall at Orchard, an experience that he describes as “invaluable”. “It enabled us to serve and engage with my regular guests who were excited about my new venture. It also provided a platform to experiment with new dishes and receive immediate feedback from them,” he says, adding that this helped him to “refine [his] menu offerings for the permanent space.” It also sharpened the “kitchen workflows” and “customer service protocols” for his team, teaching them to “be more adaptable”. Now that Sushi Oono is firmly planted on solid ground, Ohno can focus on “evok[ing] a sense of authenticity and tradition in every bite”.

“My aspiration is for every guest to depart with lasting memories of their dining journey,” he says. “The entire experience—from the moment they enter our doors, to every bite savoured, each interaction with our team—should resonate deeply with them.”

Ohno has been in Singapore for twelve years now, which means he has borne witness to the booming appreciation of traditional Edōmae sushi. “It’s truly gratifying to witness this shift, as it indicates a growing understanding and respect for the intricacies and nuances of authentic sushi within the community,” he says. It affirms his “sense of responsibility to impart [sushi’s] rich history and techniques with others”, and his “devot[ion] to honing his craft continually.

For now, at least, gourmands count themselves lucky to have Ohno for longer in Singapore, which has become a “second home” for him. Here, Ohno says, “I can continue to pursue my passion and share it with people from all walks of life.”

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