Cover Chef-owner E Ran deftly slicing the bluefin tuna
Chef-owner E Ran deftly slicing the bluefin tuna
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For the uninitiated, Sushi Zen is a famed high-end sushiya in Beijing by chef-owner E Ran. In this feature, we find out how he paved his way into the sacred world of Japanese cuisine and why he chose to expand in Singapore
E Ran may own a Japanese restaurant empire in Beijing, which was established in 2011 when he opened the first ever Sushi Zen—but little is known about this Chinese sushi chef on this side of the world. Despite quietly establishing a presence in Singapore last July with a Sushi Zen outpost, his latest high-end sushiya situated in a clandestine enclave within Keong Saik, he was elusive. Operating sans extravagant marketing efforts, Sushi Zen cultivated a discerning clientele eager to indulge in an opulent dining experience.
To get an exclusive glimpse, Tatler Dining sat down with the maverick chef-owner to find out how he paved his way into the sacred world of Japanese cuisine and why he chose to expand into Singapore.
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Above Entrance of Sushi Zen Singapore
Above Hallway within Sushi Zen Singapore
Entrance of Sushi Zen Singapore
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When we first spoke to Ran, the self-starter confessed that, at the age of 17, he was “not interested in hitting the books and never thought once of being a chef”. However, after much persuasion from his parents to go learn a skill, he managed to secure a spot in a culinary programme offered by Japanese hotel chain New Otani in Beijing. He recalls: “That was 1995, everyone wanted to associate themselves with a prestigious international name brand. These hotel jobs were often glamourised for their attractive compensation packages and most famous restaurants were part of hotels too.” Seven years later, the then-24-year-old met with a crossroads: to pursue a former education at a university or move to Japan (Tokyo, specifically) to hone his Edomae sushi-making skills. Not wanting to let his experience go to waste, he went with the latter.
Unsurprisingly, the language barrier posed his most formidable challenge. “One just needs time and practice to learn the language. After conquering that, other things like mastering cooking techniques will fall into place,” he assures. Japanese philosophy, on the other hand, can be extremely sophisticated. “China’s culture is heavily diffused into Japan—and even Korea and Vietnam—especially during the Tang dynasty,” expounds Ran, highlighting his relatively easier understanding of Japanese cultural philosophies and aesthetics compared to his Western counterparts. “These influences persist today: Chinese characters appearing in Japanese literature, the adoption of chopsticks in Japan, and even extending to renowned art forms such as ikebana and tea ceremonies.”
In 2007, he returned to China to work for a joint Chinese-Japanese restaurant group. Over the next four years, he was fortunate to be acquainted with his clients and suppliers and most of them offered guidance to fuel his entrepreneurial ambitions. This sparked him to want to become a chef-owner where one has freedom and control over an entire restaurant operation. In 2011, he finally unveiled Sushi Zen, his inaugural restaurant in Beijing. Finding a location wasn’t all a bed of roses though.
He shares: “My pitch proposals were all rejected by the malls as back then, these high traffic central areas were all looking for big established restaurant brands with massive budgets.”
Left without a choice, he ventured to the heartlands and found a humble shop in a hutong (ancient alleyway) to serve up Edomae-style sushi. Thanks to the influence of Chinese social media Weibo and WeChat, the restaurant quickly captivated the likes of wealthy gourmands in search of high-quality Japanese Edomae sushi in Beijing. What began as a two-person operation rapidly expanded into a premium Japanese restaurant empire, reaching a pinnacle of eight Japanese-themed restaurants in the portfolio by 2020—think izakaya, sukiyaki, tempura, Japanese hot pot and à la carte concepts. Ran declares: “We’ve never prioritised marketing. Throughout the years, none of my concepts in China have employed marketing services, and Sushi Zen is no exception.”
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Above Sushi Zen in Singapore
Sushi Zen in Singapore
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When the pandemic struck, China imposed strict restrictions where dine-ins were rendered impossible. By 2022, many restaurants folded, and Ran wasn’t exempt; he was strong-armed to shut down a couple of his restaurants in Beijing. “Initially, I was looking to Shanghai to expand. However, my friends residing in Singapore persuaded me to explore this opportunity,” shares Ran. His first visit to Singapore took place in October 2022 where he was particularly impressed with the overall safety and governance which he says “is good for business”. He also witnessed how the city-state bounced back quickly after the pandemic as compared to neighbouring Asian countries or even Europe for instance. Over the following six months, alongside a long-time business partner and investor who handles everything outside the kitchen, the Singaporean outpost of Sushi Zen was inaugurated.
What might be deemed as a leap of faith, this overseas venture prompted Ran to relocate his entire family from Beijing to Singapore, focusing all his attention on the new endeavour. “The decision to leave my four remaining restaurants behind didn’t come easy but I trust the foundations of the business built over the past 13 years and the talents that I have nurtured to continue to prosper,” he explains. At the Singaporean outpost, it hosts a select—and exclusive—audience of eight over lunch and dinner each day. Behind the smooth hinoki wood counter, Ran showcases his Edomae-sushi-making chops utilising ultra-premium seasonal ingredients from Japan, expressed in his own unique flair.
Above Bafun uni on shari by chef E Ran
Bafun uni on shari by chef E Ran
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For starters, think marinated ankimo (monkish liver) from Hokkaido, which eats creamy and delicately sweet; charred tennen buri (wild yellowtail) with a minerally seaweed paste; hotaru ika (spring season firefly squid) with luscious egg yolk miso sauce; and expertly grilled nodoguro (blackthroat seaperch) paired with finely grated radish. The meal then segues into the main event where nigiri is the chosen canvas for Ran’s artistic expression.
Sushi Zen’s shari formula sports a base of top-grade Nanatsuboshi rice from Hokkaido while red and white vinegar and a sprinkle of salt are used to flavour. The result is all-around ambrosial and a touch brackish—certainly pleasing the savoury-loving folks. As for the neta, luxuriate on a series of fatty chutoro and otoro; shiro ebi from Toyama crowned with caviar in place of soy sauce; bafan uni and its oceanic sweetness; smoke-kissed anago; and a rather rare showing of kawahagi (thread-sail filefish) accented with spring onions and moreish liver paste.
Above Fatty otoro on shari by chef E Ran
Fatty otoro on shari by chef E Ran
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In the mood for Japanese sake? Ran has curated a nifty list that also includes sakes that are not quite easy to find such as the Aramasa Ama Neko range of sake hailing from Akita Prefecture; limited-release Kokuryu Ishidaya Junmai Daiginjo; and even the full range of the elusive—and ultra-exclusive—Juyondai sakes from the northern Japanese Yamagata Prefecture.
When asked about his plans for Singapore, Ran reveals that he intends to stick around the helm for the foreseeable future. Observing that “Singaporeans love and understand Japanese food”, he is confident that his cuisine will be well-received. The chef-owner now looks to train and build a team to stabilise the outpost. Ran teases: “If all goes well, who knows, I might even introduce other Japanese concepts from my Beijing portfolio to Singapore.”
Credits
Photography: Edmond Ho
