As heirs to a richly diverse ancestry linking them to the rest of the Malay Archipelago, Singapore Malays inherited much of its culinary tradition. As an entrepôt of trade and migration, Singapore absorbed the diverse cuisines of the Nusantara (meaning “archipelago” in Javanese) to create an eclectic Malay cuisine. Nowhere else epitomises Singapore’s Malay cuisine more than Kampong Glam, which goes beyond its façade of an exotic, commercialised tourist spot. The cradle of culinary experimentation, the diverse people from the Nusantara created new dishes such as mee maidin and mee siam in urban Javanese kitchens. It was this that made Singapore truly a Nusantara kitchen, with Kampong Glam at its heart.

In today’s Singapore, innovative Nusantara kitchens are redefining the traditional perception of Malay cuisine, moving beyond the realms of nasi padang, street food, and hawker-style dishes. Nestled in the heart of Tanjong Pagar, Fiz represents a new wave of Nusantara kitchens that are rooted in tradition yet embracing innovation. Striking a balance between tradition and the modern sensibilities of diners is key to elevating Malay cuisine, according to Hafizzul. This philosophy is reflected in the menu, which begins with traditional flavours and childhood memories presented in a contemporary plating style. Culinary traditions are honoured through the use of bakau, or mangrove, wood in a custom‑built Josper oven, imparting a distinct smoky flavour to the dishes. The journey culminates with the communal Hidang course, a tribute to the shared culinary heritage of the Malay archipelago. 

Seroja’s menu, inspired by cuisines of the Malay archipelago, is equally a celebration of the rich Nusantara traditions. Reflecting the essence of Malay culture, Seroja introduces the concept of lauk pauk, which, according to Wong, can be likened to the Korean banchan, where a variety of side dishes enhance the dining journey. The menu features regional ingredients such as Borneo heirloom rice, aged for two years, alongside beloved staples like sambal. 

Arang, like Fiz and Seroja, embraces the heritage of Malay cooking methods. For example, its kuih bakar berlauk is prepared by cooking the batter in a copper mould covered with hot charcoal. By using these traditional techniques rather than a commercial oven, the dish acquires a distinct flavour and texture. With their creative fusion of tradition and innovation, these Nusantara kitchens breathe new life into age-old Malay culinary traditions. 

Of course, serving up contemporary versions of traditional Malay cuisine in the Singapore context comes with a set of challenges. Foraging, a fundamental technique in Malay culinary traditions, is a prime example. Hafizzul’s tasting menu at Fiz showcases delicacies such as Murasaki uni and firefly squid, inspired by his childhood memories of shoreline foraging with his father. 

Yet, indigenous ingredients closely tied to Malay heritage remain ironically absent from the commercial market. Hafizzul raises an important question: “Why are we eating kale from Australia or baby spinach from Italy when we have an entire class of indigenous vegetables that grows here naturally?” Similarly for Khir, the true essence of Malay cuisine lies in its “spontaneous relationship with one’s ecological surroundings”—a harmony that stands in stark contrast to post-independence Singapore’s “micromanagement of nature”. 

Nevertheless, change is slowly but surely taking place in Singapore. There has been a notable shift in the local culinary scene towards embracing foraging and sustainable practices, where the rise of organic food production and the farm-to-table movement have familiarised Singaporeans with the concept of foraging. This global trend towards sustainability was started by renowned establishments like Noma, where chef René Redzepi embraced foraging for wild plants. 

And the Malay fine-dining scene is spearheading this movement in Singapore. Fiz sources its fresh produce from Geylang Serai Market, primarily from Indonesia, while actively exploring collaborations with farms in Johor to cultivate necessary ingredients. Seroja, as the recipient of the country’s first-ever Michelin Green Star, sources ingredients from local farms in Singapore and Malaysia, making use of excess produce and vegetable trimmings to create non‑alcoholic beverage pairings. Water chestnut trimmings, for instance, are repurposed to make a drink infused with watercress and sansho pepper, paying homage to Malay traditions of respect and connection with nature. 

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To genuinely herald a Malay cuisine renaissance, Singapore must be prepared to embrace Malay cuisine in a new light. Often misconceived as unsophisticated or unhealthy, Malay cuisine holds immense potential to be “elevated” for modern palates. Countless valuable Malay techniques and culinary knowledge remain hidden and unexplored. While cherished hawker stalls offer unique nostalgic flavours, they operate under price constraints that limit the intricate and time-consuming nature of preparing Malay dishes.

However, by delving into the past and embracing the fine dining experience, chefs can discover a wealth of opportunities to truly showcase ancient Malay culinary techniques and traditions. Khir believes that reinterpreting Malay cuisine in a fine-dining context presents a tremendous opportunity for Singapore to rediscover its own heritage food. Fine dining establishments across Southeast Asia, such as Nahm in Bangkok, have successfully showcased the communal dining concept and can serve as a source of inspiration for Malay fine-dining restaurants.

At the heart of elevating cuisine lies the paradox of tradition versus innovation–but Khir believes that they can co-exist. His groundbreaking book stands as a remarkable achievement, being the only comprehensive guide that truly captures the essence and integrity of ancient Malay recipes. Serving as both a historical record and a catalyst for preserving time-honoured methods and traditions, the book provides a solid foundation and a springboard for chefs to develop their own culinary visions, and understand the history and ethos behind the dishes they create. 

And young minds are driving the innovation part of the equation. As this year’s Michelin Young Chef award winner, Wong shares, “I remember cooking for Anthony Bourdain once when I was very young. I cooked simple local dishes, and he loved it. Off-camera, he asked about my ambitions, and I told him that I wanted to cook in France and prepare the best French food. He questioned me and told me that I should channel my energy and time cooking from within instead.” 

This encounter left a lasting impression on Wong, inspiring him to delve deeper into his own cultural roots and cook from the heart. With culinary leaders like Wong, Hafizzul, Asyraffie, and others leading by example, more rising chefs will undoubtedly take pride in showcasing their culinary heritage.

Khir believes that the time and setting is ripe for the Malay cuisine renaissance to happen in Singapore. “Given Singapore’s prominent position in the world of restaurants and gastronomy, it will be the perfect springboard to showcase Singapore’s Malay cuisine, and Nusantara cuisine to a global audience.” 

The future does indeed look promising for the remarkable heritage and gastronomic potential of Singapore’s Malay cuisine. 

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