Cover Borneo heirloom rice at Seroja

Celebrated food historian Khir Johari shares his favourite Malay dining spots in Singapore, which range from fine-dining establishments to casual hawker fare

Renowned for his groundbreaking contributions to the culinary world, Khir Johari needs little introduction. With his exceptional magnum opus, The Food Of Singapore Malays: Gastronomic Travels Through The Archipelago, he earned the prestigious title of Best of the Best Book at the esteemed 28th Gourmand World Cookbook Awards, effectively putting Singaporean Malay cuisine on the global map. Within its pages lies a treasure trove of historical narratives, age-old recipes, and a profound exploration of the cultural significance surrounding Malay culinary traditions.

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Above Book cover of “The Food Of Singapore Malays: Gastronomic Travels Through The Archipelago”
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Above Renowned food historian, author and math teacher, Khir Johari

Having grown up in the iconic yellow mansion known as Gedung Kuning, Khir’s culinary journey began in Kampong Gelam—a vibrant hub of gastronomic experimentation. This locale witnessed the fusion of diverse influences from the Nusantara region, resulting in the creation of innovative dishes like mee maidin and mee siam within urban Javanese kitchens. While relishing his mother’s and relatives’ expertly prepared ayam masak puteh and mee siam at home, he also embraced the extensive Nusantara feast offered by the wider community.

In this spirit, we share Khir’s handpicked selection of his favourite Malay dining experiences in Singapore, spanning refined fine-dining establishments to delightful hawker delicacies.

In case you missed it: How Khir Johari’s love of Malay food inspired his latest book

1. Hathaway

Nestled in the hills of Dempsey is Hathaway, a modern Asian restaurant that beautifully incorporates many dishes and elements of Malay cuisine, according to Khir. The menu at Hathaway highlights the rich and diverse ingredients and flavours of the region, with offerings like sambal tumis and bergedil. Diners can savour regional favourites such as pickled green starfruit in sambal and fermented durian, while the fish curry featuring Kuhlbarra barramundi cooked in a spice paste of galangal, turmeric, and candlenut is a true standout. Inclusivity is a priority at Hathaway, as they draw immense inspiration from the Malay community and have deliberately chosen to exclude pork, lard, and alcohol, ensuring a delightful and welcoming dining experience for all.

Hathaway, Block 13 Dempsey Road, 01-07, S(249674), 9665 0681

2. Arang

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Above Jenekek with cured hamachi and caviar at Arang (photo: Kerry Cheah)

Despite only being launched September 2022, Arang has garnered praise from Khir for chef-owner Asyraffie’s deep understanding of Malay cooking and flavour balance. Asyraffie’s culinary journey includes stints at Thevar and Gaggan in Bangkok before devoting himself fully to Arang, his private dining platform. Drawing inspiration from the diverse regions of Southeast Asia, Arang celebrates the broader Nusantara culinary heritage by incorporating a wide range of flavours, ingredients, and cooking techniques. While introducing playful dishes such as chickpea rempeyek with smoked hamachi cubes and kaya tart with homemade Chantilly cream, Asyraffie acknowledges that his innovative cuisine may not strictly adhere to the expectations of traditional Malay food purists. Nevertheless, Arang still features traditional Malay ingredients and methods, exemplified by the standout dish Kuih Bakar Berlauk. Prepared by cooking the batter in a copper mould covered with hot charcoal, this technique replicates the function of an oven, resulting in a unique flavour and texture.

Arang, Beach Road (exact address provided by email once a reservation is made)

Read more: How Singapore chefs are reinterpreting Asian cuisine

3. Orang Laut SG

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Above Ketam lemak at Orang Laut SG
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Above Asam pedas at Orang Laut SG

Orang Laut SG, a community native to the islands that comprise modern Singapore, embodies the true essence of Malay cuisine. “To eat their delicious, rustic home cooking is to experience their deep knowledge and respect of these waters,” says Khir. One notable dish is the asam pedas ikan, commonly found in Malay households. At their island location, the fish is grilled over an open fire after being gutted and cleaned, highlighting its freshness. It is then savoured alongside air asam, a delightful chilli concoction that perfectly complements a plate of steaming hot rice. However, the family emphasises that not all fish can be prepared using this method, recommending fish types such as ikan kachi, ikan lebam, and ikan sembilang for the best pairing. During low tides, the sea presents a unique opportunity to collect siput ranga (spider conch) from the seabeds, which are then boiled in seawater and enjoyed immediately, often accompanied by the vibrant orange roe found within.

4. Fiz

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Above Hidang course at Fiz

At the top of Khir’s wish-list of Malay eateries to visit is Fiz, a recent addition to the fine dining scene in Tanjong Pagar. With chef-owner Hafizzul Hashim at the helm, Fiz offers a culinary journey that celebrates regional flavours, indigenous ingredients, and ancient culinary techniques presented in thoughtfully crafted tasting menus. Drawing inspiration from his childhood memories of exploring the shore with his father, the meal commences with a selection of seafood-inspired snacks, including Murasaki uni on sinigang jelly and firefly squid infused with elements from his mother’s nasi lemak recipe. A standout dish is the blue swimmer crab, which beautifully embodies the essence of Malay cuisine, evoking memories of the cherished gulai lemak chilli padi—a fragrant yellow curry made with coconut milk and turmeric. The experience reaches its peak with the Hidang course, an assortment of dishes meant to be enjoyed alongside rice, capturing the spirit of communal feasting found throughout Asia. 

Fiz, 21 Tanjong Pagar Road, 01-01/02, S(088444), 9679 8021

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5. Warong Pariaman

Warong Nasi Pariaman has been serving authentic nasi padang since 1948, starting from a modest coffee shop on Kandahar Street. Today, this family-run stall continues to delight its loyal customers, some of whom have been visiting for generations. It is no wonder that Khir considers Warong Nasi Pariaman a must-visit for the most authentic nasi padang experience. He explains that what sets them apart is their commitment to traditional cooking methods, including steaming rice and cooking with charcoal, imparting a distinct smokiness that is often missing in other Malay establishments. Their gulai nangka showcases tender jackfruit infused with flavourful curry gravy, providing a delightful combination of savoury and spice. Another standout dish is the beef rendang, where the tender meat effortlessly falls apart, accompanied by fragrant coconut, a slight smokiness, and the savoury richness of their housemade rempah. 

Warong Nasi Pariaman, 738 North Bridge Road, S(198706), 6292 5898

6. Seroja

Seroja, highly recommended by Khir as one of the top Malay restaurants in Singapore, captivates diners with its celebration of Nusantara cuisine. The restaurant’s name, meaning “lotus flower” in Malay, pays homage to the diverse cultures and culinary traditions found in the Malay Archipelago. Led by chef-owner Kevin Wong, formerly of Meta and the Asian representative of the S.Pellegrino Young Chef Academy Competition in 2021, Seroja offers a deep understanding of the region’s culinary culture. The herb noodles, inspired by nasi ulam, surprise with their dark green colour derived from betel leaf juice extract. This light and refreshing course is complemented by the flavours of tropical herbs, Selangor mud crab, chilli padi, pomelo, and cucumber. To satisfy your sweet tooth, don’t forget to try the Borneo raw sugar bahulu, a fragrant and tender traditional Malay pastry dessert baked to perfection in a brass gold pan.

Seroja, 7 Fraser Street, 01-30/31/32/33 Duo Galleria, S(189356), 8522 2926

Don’t miss: Meet Kevin Wong, the new chef-owner of Seroja who once cooked for Anthony Bourdain

7. Hjh Salbiah

Located at Changi Village Hawker Centre, Hjh Salbiah stands out for its unwavering commitment to freshness and meticulous food preparation. Its nasi lemak, a beloved dish among patrons, features perfectly cooked and fragrant long grain rice that maintains a delightful texture without being greasy or sticky. Accompanied by a crispy chicken wing, fresh and crunchy ikan bilis, a skilfully prepared sunny-side-up egg, and thick-cut cucumber, their nasi lemak offers a harmonious blend of flavours and textures. As a Muslim-owned stall, Hjh Salbiah offers a diverse selection of hearty breakfast options, including nasi rawon, nasi jenganan, and nasi ambeng. As evening approaches, the menu transitions to feature delectable dishes such as mee soto, gado-gado, and satay. Khir highlights the meticulous attention to detail and dedication to creating delicious and satisfying meals, making Hjh. Salbiah a must-visit for anyone seeking an authentic taste of Malay cuisine.

Hjh. Salbiah, Changi Village Hawker Centre, 2 Changi Village Road, 01-04 Village Hawker Centre, S(500002)

8. Geylang Serai Hawker Centre

Geylang Serai Market and Food Centre in Singapore’s oldest Malay settlement has long been a favourite of Khir, especially after a round of grocery shopping. The market has a rich history, evolving from a makeshift hawker shelter to an amusement park and eventually becoming a bustling market and food centre. Within this vibrant hub, some of the best Malay food stalls in Singapore can be found. One stall that captures the essence of traditional flavours is Otak-Otak Kampung, which has been operating since the 1950s. Its old-school otak-otak is made without flour, instead utilising chunks of fish bound together with coconut milk and grated coconut wrapped in attap palm leaf. For mutton enthusiasts, Iqbal Soup Kambing is a true gem. This thick and velvety soup is bursting with aromatic spices and flavours, with the mutton adding a subtle, non-gamey fragrance. Adventurous eaters can also find delicacies such as tongue, bone marrow, and brains available at this stall. 

Geylang Serai Market and Food Centre, 1 Geylang Serai, S(402001)

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9. Satay Solo stall at Bedok Food Centre

At Bedok Food Centre, Satay Solo stall takes the crown among the best Malay eateries, as praised by Khir for its exceptional satay sauces. Their beef satay stands out as a must-try, delivering an explosion of flavours that is further enhanced when paired with extra gravy. The mutton satay is also a delight, boasting rich flavours from the aromatic spice marinade. For noodle lovers, their mee rebus is a slurp-worthy treat. The sauce strikes the perfect balance, with a thinner consistency that allows it to cling to the yellow noodles effortlessly. The subtly sweet and spicy flavours are complemented by the occasional soft peanut, making each bite satisfying. For an additional indulgence, the begedil is a recommended add-on. Coated in a thin and crispy layer of egg, the potato cake inside is wonderfully fluffy, creating a delightful contrast of textures.

Satay Solo, Bedok Food Centre, 1 Bedok Road, S(469572), 9711 0116

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