Cover Setsuri is the first Japanese restaurant in Singapore to feature four grilling styles under one roof
Setsuri is the first Japanese restaurant in Singapore to feature four grilling styles under one roof
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From genshiyaki to robatayaki, the one-stop grill restaurant doubles as a haven for Japanese shochu
Picture this: a 50-seat sanctuary, housed in a beautiful heritage building, where the air is thick with the intoxicating aroma of binchotan charcoal and burning rice straw. Chefs are all busy tending to a mixture of grills by the jade-hued hearth, slicing up fresh sashimi at the adjacent counter, or patiently awaiting to flip the fluffy tamagoyaki by the stoves. That is Setsuri Ishinomaki for you.
Newly inducted as part of the spanking new Guoco Midtown food cluster, it is the first Japanese restaurant in Singapore to feature four grilling styles under one roof—tinkered up by the sake-loving folks behind the Ishinomaki Group.
Read more: The best izakayas to visit in Singapore for Japanese comfort food
Above The salmon honey miso genshiyaki is a sight to behold
The salmon honey miso genshiyaki is a sight to behold
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In the open-concept kitchen, the four ancient grilling techniques of genshiyaki, warayaki, robatayaki, and rogama are all on display. At the helm is executive chef Chi Pin Han, a Singaporean who’s made it his mission to honour nature’s bounty through fire and flame. His 39-year-long culinary career saw him earn his stripes in the luxury hotel Meguro Gajoen in Tokyo, and Keyaki at Pan Pacific Singapore. But it wasn’t until a visit to Ishinomaki prefecture, as part of a relief programme after the devastating tsunami back in 2011, that led to the restaurant group’s first-ever concept: Ishinomaki Grill & Sake, famed for their chirashi and sakes.
Above Succulent slices of salmon imbued with smoke by the warayaki grill
Succulent slices of salmon imbued with smoke by the warayaki grill
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The genshiyaki hearth is a rather uncommon sight to behold in Singapore. Imagine plump prawns and cod fillets, skewered on bamboo and leaning close to a glowing tower of charcoal. For the uninitiated, order in advance—though this slow-cooking method would make even the most impatient diner learn the virtue of waiting.
The warayaki grill, burning rice straw imported from Kochi, imparts a distinctive smokiness to dishes that remind of hay. Our choice of salmon arrives succulent, heavily imbued with smoke, and contrasted with the sharp tang of onions.
Above The crowd pleasing fluffy tamagoyaki topped with spicy cod roe
The crowd pleasing fluffy tamagoyaki topped with spicy cod roe
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And then there’s the robatayaki and rogama, which most Japanese food lovers are familiar with. Meats, such as grilled chicken wings, fatty pork collar, and minced chicken meatballs studded with cartilage, are comfortable favourites. Then there’s a thin beancurd with natto and blue cheese, a flavour combination so bold, it practically dares you to dislike it. The Kyoto red miso Japanese eggplant or fluffy tamagoyaki topped with spicy cod roe, is more of a general crowd-pleaser though.
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Above The Ishinomaki signature chirashi bowl has been a standout since 2014
The Ishinomaki signature chirashi bowl has been a standout since 2014
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Setsuri isn’t just all about the action by the grill. The menu extends to other Japanese delights, from refreshing cold and hot appetisers to wholesome donabes. Even the futomaki, a forgotten oversized sushi roll stuffed with either seafood or beef, is brought back into fashion. A longstanding standout is the signature chirashi bowl, which comes stacked with twelve types of fresh sashimi. It is as much a feast for the eyes as it is for the palate and certainly puts any desk salad to shame.
The booze selection isn’t lacking either. Janice Chi, Singapore’s first female master sake sommelier and co-owner of Ishinomaki Group, is responsible for the highly curated shochu selection that would make even the most jaded Tokyo salaryman weep with joy. Expect over 50 varieties on offer—at the time of writing—but Chi remains confident that the list will only evolve to be a liquid shochu tour of Japan, minus the jet lag.
Credits
Images: Ishinomaki Group
