Cover Ruyi Gastronomy tableware (Photo: Ruyi Gastronomy)
Ruyi Gastronomy tableware (Photo: Ruyi Gastronomy)
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The series of interactive experiences combines the worlds of gastronomy and bespoke tableware
“In the past, all the best tableware, even for Chinese cuisine, was made by European or Japanese brands,” says Desmond Chang, the creative mind behind Ruyi Gastronomy and the CEO of Inhesion Asia. “It was somehow never perfect due to a lack of cultural understanding—soup bowls were often the wrong size, and spoons were never the right weight.”
Elaborating, he lists tableware specific to Chinese cuisine, such as fish platters or vessels ideal for dishes that involve braising. In 2009, Chang met designer Peter Ting in Paris, who would later become the designer of the Ruyi collection for Legle, a brand-new tableware collection for high-end Chinese cuisine. Chang furthered the design by creating intricate patterns for Ruyi Gastronomy.
Above Cultural aspects are often incorporated into Ruyi Gastronomy’s presentation
Cultural aspects are often incorporated into Ruyi Gastronomy’s presentation
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Beyond tableware, Chang delved into enhancing gastronomical experiences, overseeing everything from menu creation to the art of plating and pairing. “We were talking about the beauty of Chinese cuisine and its profound culinary history, and decided to design a collection from scratch,” he says.
Their maiden collection was tailored for Shanghai cuisine, enjoyed in the past by rich Chinese aristocrats. In the midst of the launch in October 2012, something dawned on Chang: “While we had poured thought into refining the presentation of Chinese cuisine and meticulously curated this collection, there remained uncertainty about whether the market understood how to use it.”
Above The dessert course paired with pu’er tea from the 2017 Ruyi Gastronomy chapter at The Peninsula Tokyo
The dessert course paired with pu’er tea from the 2017 Ruyi Gastronomy chapter at The Peninsula Tokyo
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As such, he designed the Ruyi Gastronomy programme to demonstrate how fine Chinese cuisine can be presented, partnering up with renowned chefs from around the world. “The first chapter was a lunch—six courses paired with six teas,” he recalls. “At the time, no one was offering fine dining degustation lunches in Shanghai, especially with a pairing of fine tea, and it was such a success that it ran for an entire year.” Subsequent chapters have delved even further into regional Chinese fare, ranging from Huaiyang to Cantonese cuisine.
Above The set-up for the first chapter of Ruyi Gastronomy in Shanghai
The set-up for the first chapter of Ruyi Gastronomy in Shanghai
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When designing a collection, an immense amount of research and thought goes into the process. “We have to consider how to incorporate cultural aspects into the presentation,” Chang explains. For instance, the Jiu Gong Ge, an iconic piece featuring nine small dishes, each symbolising different dynasties.
“The layout is over 2,600 years old and is considered a lucky and auspicious omen to begin a meal,” he says. “Each dish perfectly blends colour with elements that represent specific historical periods, creating a visually stunning and culturally rich masterpiece.” A Ruyi Gastronomy banquet typically begins with a selection of appetisers served on the Jiu Gong Ge.
Above The Jiu Gong Ge features nine small dishes, each symbolising different dynasties
The Jiu Gong Ge features nine small dishes, each symbolising different dynasties
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When it comes to visuals, the colour of food and tableware is often contrasted to evoke feelings of festivity and celebration. Chang gives the example of fresh, green vegetables on a red plate or glistening Peking duck on a yellow platter: “These are lavish and auspicious Chinese colours.”
It is also important that the banquet is tightly orchestrated: “The experience has to escalate, then come down gracefully, whether in terms of flavour profile or portions,” he says. “It is comparable to an orchestra, involving tempo and momentum.”
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Above Ruyi Gastronomy’s logo
Ruyi Gastronomy’s logo
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Since its launch, Ruyi Gastronomy has partnered with hotels, from Waldorf Astoria Beijing and The Peninsula Tokyo to The Ritz-Carlton, Hong Kong, presenting exquisite banquets. “Each cuisine, whether Cantonese, Huaiyang, or Sichuan, has distinct styles and colours, and tableware works to accentuate these cultural nuances,” Chang continues.
Above Five Fortune
platter
Five Fortune platter
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The latest chapter, Ruyi Gastronomy: 24 Flavours of Sichuan Cuisine, draws inspiration from ancient Shu Han dynasties. To Chang, this has been one of the most exciting chapters to date. “Seamlessly incorporating 24 flavours, our comprehensive understanding of culture and history enhances the gastronomical experience with 17 captivating courses,” he says. “The banquet we create isn’t just a gastronomical delight but also a meaningful educational process.”
Ruyi Gastronomy’s curated experiences have undoubtedly elevated Chinese gastronomy. “I hope to continue to explore Eastern philosophies with modern sensibilities, honouring our Asian cultural perspective with uncompromising standards,” Chang ends.
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Images: Ruyi Gastronomy
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About
Katelyn is the dining and travel editor of Malaysia and Indonesia. Based in Kuala Lumpur, she offers readers an inside look at the movers and shakers in Asia’s growing food and beverage industry.
