Roti canai voted second best food in the world

Its origin story isn’t conclusive, but what we do know is that the dish was created by South Indian indentured labourers brought to Malaysia from Tamil Nadu by British colonisers. Malaysian cuisine came to be defined by adaptation, with communities of migrants hybridising local dishes and making do with readily available produce, flavours, and spices. Its antecedent stands as paratha, which was modified with unique preparation techniques and designed to be accompanied by hyperlocal side dishes, fruit, sweeteners, and proteins. 

Roti canai is unlike flatbreads, which are commonly found in India. More pillowy than both chapati and paratha, roti canai’s distinct texture comes from a kneading process that sees glossy mounds of dough folded over themselves, trapping pockets of air, before being spun in the air like pizzas and cooked on sizzling flat tops. Since its inception sometime in the nineteenth century, it has weaved itself into Malaysian food culture and become one of the most widely consumed breads in the country. 

Sometimes flooded with coconut milk-thickened curries, stuffed with slices of banana, or sprinkled with granulated sugar, it is a dish that has come to be cherished for its versatility. Walk into any mamak stall just after sunrise and expect to see tables littered with portions of roti canai, served sweet or savoury. 

See also: The best roti canai in Malaysia, according to chefs
 

Taste Atlas has recognised it as a deeply loved food and an intrinsic aspect of local culinary heritage, sought after by both locals and visitors. Its rankings come from over 200,000 votes, with each one scoring dishes from global cuisines on a scale of one to five. Roti canai currently stands at a score of 4.74. While no definitive data exists on how qualified its users are to rank the world’s foods, a majority of Taste Atlas’ audience are based in the United States, Spain, India, and the United Kingdom. 

Roti canai is undoubtedly a favourite in Malaysia, but how has it assumed the spot of second best food in the world? The dish falls second to Picanha, a Brazilian churrasco-grilled steak. Pizza Napoletana from Italy comes in fourth while panfried guotie, Thai khao soi, and butter garlic naan follow. Tuna nigiri placed twenty first, with Vietnamese pho being placed on the very bottom of the list.

Roti canai is the only Malaysian dish that made it onto Taste Atlas’ compilation. Some of the world’s most recognised and treasured dishes can be found only towards the middle of the list, while the list does not take into account local or global popularity of named dishes, locale or expertise of reviewers, nor specify the qualities that make each dish supposedly outstanding. 

Food reviews that draw on public surveys and make use of conspicuous or even unnamed sources have come under fire recently. In an Instagram post made by a homegrown and dining-focused media brand, Malaysia was listed as the cheapest country in the world when it comes to Michelin-starred dining. The post has since been deleted but featured a list of countries ranked by the affordability of their fine dining restaurants.

Comments were quick to point out that Michelin stars are separate from Michelin Bib Gourmand, which recognises exceptional local fare that is priced significantly lower than upscale dining venues. No citations were provided, with many stating the cost of dining in Malaysia shouldn’t be compared to other countries with stronger currencies or higher costs of living. 

The same can be said about Taste Atlas’ rankings of international dishes. Influenced only by the personal viewpoints of its specific audience, its hierarchy of foods isn’t exactly conclusive. Roti canai may have the hearts of many locals and those familiar with Malaysian cuisine, but its victory as runner-up on Taste Atlas’ list should be taken with a pinch of salt. 

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