Cover Chef Saurabh Udinia, chef-owner at Revolver and executive chef at Barood
Chef Saurabh Udinia, chef-owner at Revolver and executive chef at Barood
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One of India’s most promising young chefs talks about his inspirations, culinary journey, and the newest Bullet 10 menu at Revolver
Delhi-born and raised, chef Saurabh Udinia’s passion for food was evident from a young age, from relishing the flavours of street chaat in Karol Bagh to mischievously sampling his schoolmates’ lunchbox treats. Today, he stands as the visionary force behind the extraordinary cuisine and bold flavours at contemporary Indian restaurant Revolver, and serves as executive chef of Barood, a modern Latin-Indian izakaya.
Beginning his culinary journey at Le Meridien in New Delhi, Udinia’s odyssey led him to kitchens around the world, ultimately making his mark in multiple locations globally. A pivotal moment in his career came when he joined celebrated Indian chef Manish Mehrotra’s original team at Indian Accent, which came to be known around the world as India’s finest restaurant. Later on, Udinia’s wanderlust took him to London and the Middle East, where he continued to hone his craft at highly-lauded Farzi Café, an experimental modern spice bistro. After returning to India, he assumed the role of chef de cuisine at Massive Restaurants group, where he conceptualised and realised award-winning dining establishments, including the acclaimed Masala Library. In 2021, he became executive chef of avant-garde restaurant Revolver, which quickly became one of Singapore’s most well-known places for modern Indian cuisine.
At the heart of Udinia’s culinary arsenal lies wood-fire cooking. With Revolver’s custom-built wood-fire and binchōtan grills, tandoors and smokers, Udinia infuses dishes with a captivating smoky essence. For the chef, this technique also serves as the common thread binding together a myriad of Indian cuisines, which he remains devoted to while continuously pushing the boundaries of innovation.
Tatler Dining speaks with Udinia to unravel the driving force behind his culinary philosophy and his remarkable journey.
Read more: Revolver and Thevar: The making of an epic collaboration menu
Above Signature kulchettes filled with Scamorza cheese and topped with tandoor-roasted pulled quail at Revolver
Above Japanese turnip cooked over wood-fire at Revolver
Signature kulchettes filled with Scamorza cheese and topped with tandoor-roasted pulled quail at Revolver
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What motivated you to combine Indian cooking sensibilities with international flavours and world-class produce at Revolver?
I drew inspiration from my time at a production kitchen in Delhi, where I learned various traditional Indian cuisines from expert chefs spanning regions like Kashmir to Tamil Nadu and Rajasthan to Bengal. As I ventured out to open restaurants for the Massive Restaurant group (such as Farzi Café and Masala Library), I further explored and learned about the diverse culinary landscape of India.
Witnessing the limited representation of Indian cuisine in restaurants abroad motivated me to unite Indian cooking sensibilities and flavours with top-notch produce at Revolver. I firmly believe that using high-quality ingredients is crucial in showcasing the true beauty of Indian flavours.
What sets your kitchen at Revolver apart from traditional restaurant kitchens?
At Revolver, our open kitchen and dining room are thoughtfully designed to allow every guest to witness the energy and artistry of our team in action. The kitchen serves as the stage, while the seats are arranged around it, creating a theatrical experience where cooking, fire, and passion are on display.
We also focus on wood-fire cooking. The use of wood-fire is a common thread that runs through the multitude of Indian cuisines, and food cooked over wood fire is cooking in its purest form, which aligns perfectly with our culinary philosophy at Revolver.
In case you missed it: 2 of Singapore’s finest chefs collaborate for the inaugural edition of Tatler Dining Kitchen, organised in partnership with Mastercard
Above Restaurant interior at Revolver
Restaurant interior at Revolver
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With your extensive experience in renowned establishments like Indian Accent and Farzi Café, what valuable lessons have you learned about pushing boundaries and experimenting with flavours?
Throughout my journey, I’ve learned the importance of staying true to oneself and respecting the flavours and culinary heritage because taste is always paramount when it comes to food. Simplicity is key, but at the same time it is important to keep innovating and pushing the boundaries. There are no shortcuts, and one should always respect your team.
Could you describe your creative process when developing menus and crafting new dishes?
Our creative process starts with identifying the season’s ingredients. We have established strong relationships with suppliers who can deliver any ingredient we desire from any corner of the world. While I source my spices from India, I particularly enjoy experimenting with crustaceans, Japanese produce and sustainable ingredients.
We then explore Indian flavours and techniques that can accentuate the produce. The next steps involve refining the plating and components, and the dish is continuously perfected until it meets our standards.
Every season, we create over 50 dishes, from which we carefully curate a well-balanced menu that takes our guests on a flavourful journey. Research and development are integral parts of our daily routine.
Now read: Singapore’s top chefs share their favourite summer recipes
Above Australian rock lobster marinated with Goan Recheado Masala, from the newest Bullet 10 menu at Revolver
Above Iberico pork pluma with a sweet and sour sauce, from the newest Bullet 10 menu at Revolver
Australian rock lobster marinated with Goan Recheado Masala, from the newest Bullet 10 menu at Revolver
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How does your new Bullet 10 menu reflect your culinary journey and showcase your Indian heritage?
The Bullet 10 menu is a reflection of my culinary journey and a tribute to my Indian heritage. Through Indian classics like “pepper fry”, Chettinad spice mix and Mangalorean bafat sauce, diners embark on a flavorful expedition across India. This menu represents my quest to unveil the rich and diverse tapestry of Indian cuisine, allowing guests to savour the unexplored delights it has to offer.
As one of India’s youngest and most promising culinary talents, what advice would you give to aspiring chefs who want to explore innovative and modern approaches to traditional cuisine?
My advice is simple: Begin by mastering traditional cooking techniques. Learning is a lifelong pursuit, so never stop seeking knowledge and respecting the authentic flavours and practices of your culture. Avoid the temptation of fusion and novelty for the sake of trendiness. Instead, work diligently under a mentor or master until you discover your unique voice and direction. Honesty, hard work and continuous learning will pave the way to success.
