Cover Peter Smit reveals the challenges of nose-to-tail cooking in Singapore with Dirty Supper
Peter Smit reveals the challenges of nose-to-tail cooking in Singapore with Dirty Supper
1 / 1
Peter Smit of Dirty Supper on pushing the whole animal cooking agenda while navigating Singapore’s food regulations
“There’s a lot of restrictions on what we can and can’t use,” Smit confides about the challenges of nose-to-tail cooking in Singapore, a culinary movement that has once again found itself in favour amongst a new generation of diners. But the term nose-to-tail is somewhat problematic, especially in Singapore, where the culinary regulations are as complex as mille-feuille.
Call it what you may, but we can’t deny that both notions are culinary tightropes that would make even the most seasoned chef break into a cold sweat.
Read more: New restaurant Dirty Supper brings the art of grilling to Hua Bee Restaurant in Tiong Bahru
Above Watch the full video interview of how this Aussie chef challenges perceptions of what constitutes a ‘good cut’ of meat at the popular grill restaurant Dirty Supper
At his latest grill restaurant Dirty Supper, Smit is a gastronomic rebel, quietly staging a revolution. When Tatler Dining first linked up with Smit, it was butchering day on a balmy Monday afternoon. On the table, is a whole lamb which Smit dispatches with ease, cutting like a hot knife through butter. Cuts of ribs, shoulders and shanks soon appear in familiar shapes, all waiting to be grilled or slow-cooked to juicy perfection. But can you call it nose-to-tail when the “whole animal” comes without its head and heart?
Instead, Smit prefers “whole animal cooking”, as the former term is somewhat “overused”. “I can’t use lamb offal,” he laments. “No hearts, no heads. Sometimes I can get tongues (a prized cut), but it’s like finding a unicorn in a haystack.” Even pork, one of the most versatile meats, doesn’t escape the regulatory net either. “I can’t use pig’s blood—both dried or fresh,” he says, simultaneously crushing the dreams of English black pudding and Taiwanese pig’s blood cake fans on the island.
Above The sheer unpredictability of the daily menu at Dirty Supper is a testament to Smit’s culinary ingenuity and resourcefulness
The sheer unpredictability of the daily menu at Dirty Supper is a testament to Smit’s culinary ingenuity and resourcefulness
1 / 1
However, where others might throw in the kitchen towel when pursuing whole-animal cooking, Smit sees these restrictions as a creative challenge. The sheer unpredictability of the daily menu at Dirty Supper is a testament to Smit’s culinary ingenuity and resourcefulness. It is a constant evolution, showcasing what can be done deliciously and yet remain within the confines of local laws. “The goal for Dirty Supper is eventually to get rid of the printed menu,” he enthused. A rather bold move that surely raises eyebrows in a city known for its love of structure and predictability.
In case you missed it: Find out how a trip to Singapore inspired chef Dharshan Munidasa to open Ministry of Crab
Above On the table, is a whole lamb which Smit dispatches with ease, like a hot knife through butter
On the table, is a whole lamb which Smit dispatches with ease, like a hot knife through butter
1 / 1
And that philosophy goes beyond just cooking. It is also about unpretentiously educating the diner, challenging perceptions and accustomed notions of what constitutes a “good cut” of meat. “Not many people here have had the chance to deal with whole animals,” Smit explains. “I once had someone say that the lamb tenderloin was too tender,” he chuckles, at the tasty irony.
Between Smit and the diner, there is common ground: a learning curve, a mutual discovery that even the most delicious dishes may perhaps emanate from the tightest of constraints. And that in the path of cooking what some may consider imperfect, without irony, makes it all perfect and worthwhile.
