Pangulasian Island Resort
Cover Pangulasian Island Resort
Pangulasian Island Resort

Chef Chele González of Gallery by Chele and chef Deepanker Khosla of Haoma, Bangkok engaged in a sustainable journey through Palawan

While many chefs and restauranteurs have made a mindful note of practicing sustainability in their establishments, few have truly made a commitment to putting these ideals into action. Still, there are a very select few who are ardently bulldozing the way towards a more sustainable future not only for the industry but for humanity as a whole. Chefs Chele González (Gallery by Chele, Asador Alfonso) and Deepanker Khosla or DK (Haōma Bangkok) share a deep passion for the actual implementation of sustainable practices in a way that is truly impactful to the world we live in. It is this commonality— aside from their mutual love for music and la dolce vita— that has brought them together and embarked on this weekend journey to beautiful El Nido Resorts in Palawan at the luxurious Pangulasian Island Resort. 

The exotic island rich with wildlife (monitor lizards and monkeys are free to roam around) and surrounded by blue waters abundant in marine creatures and towering reefs is the ideal setting for a weekend of learning and awareness. The crown jewel of El Nido, Pangulasian is a glowing example of how tourism can flourish amidst bio-diversity and vice versa. This property boasts 35 well-appointed villas, most of them lining the beachfront wherein a few meters away is a well-protected reef that is home to a multitude of saltwater species. 

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Pangulasian Island Resort
Above Pangulasian Island Resort
Tatler Asia
Pangulasian Island Resort
Above Pangulasian Island Resort
Pangulasian Island Resort
Pangulasian Island Resort

Opening the weekend, Kiko Velhagen and Caitlin Crisostomo— sustainability officers of Lio Estates and El Nido Resorts, respectively— hosted a talk with chefs Chele, DK, El Nido Resorts executive chef Ric Ramos, and Gallery by Chele chef Carlos Villaflor encouraging a discussion on sustainability and responsible practices in food and beverage and hospitality. Velhagen and Crisostomo started by sharing what their relationship is like with the local fishing community. Chef Chele then shared his journey of becoming the chef that he is in the Philippines, from being reliant on imported ingredients to actually scouring the country for local produce and conjuring their unique flavours into memorable dishes. “I started documenting all the local recipes, and I discovered many new ingredients that I have never seen before,” narrates the Spanish-born chef.

Both he and chef DK have fitted their restaurants with urban gardens that provide their restaurants with herbs and vegetables. Before opening his own restaurant, the impassioned chef of Haōma worked in a 5-star hotel that did not share his beliefs in sustainable practices, which prompted him to leave and open his own establishment. Aside from Haōma’s Michelin star, it also earned a Green Star for its outstanding efforts towards sustainability. 

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Pangulasian Island Resort, chef Deepanker Khosla of Haōma Bangkok
Above Pangulasian Island Resort, chef Deepanker Khosla of Haōma Bangkok
Tatler Asia
Pangulasian Island Resort
Above Pangulasian Island Resort
Pangulasian Island Resort, chef Deepanker Khosla of Haōma Bangkok
Pangulasian Island Resort
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Pangulasian Island Resort
Above Pangulasian Island Resort
Tatler Asia
Pangulasian Island Resort
Above Pangulasian Island Resort
Pangulasian Island Resort
Pangulasian Island Resort

Chef DK is driven by the belief that if they are not sustainable, they will no longer be in business in a few years. The restaurant runs on solar power and uses rainwater that is treated and filtered before being served or used the restaurant. They raise their own fish in a pond in their basement, and the fish are fed dehydrated vegetable trimmings from the produce that was fertilised using the fish’s own excrement. To eliminate their use of plastic, old tablecloths are repurposed into shopping bags used when shopping for produce and grocery items. These are just a few things from all the sustainable practices that chef DK applies in Haōma which serves as proof that it can be done using what he calls the 3 Ps: people, products, and processes. “First, hire people who share your ideals. Then, work with them to create sustainable processes that you can apply to make sustainable products,” he explains. 

The weather for most of the weekend made it challenging to move around the island, but one day was enough to give a small glimpse of what Palawan has to offer. Aside from the rich bio-diversity on land and in the water which has made it the adventurer’s final frontier, it also provides foodies with many interesting choices. After a morning of island-hopping, swimming, and snorkelling, a trip to the mangroves showed how rich it was with edible gems, from sweet mud crabs to giant clams. The locals demonstrated how they set traps along the roots so that when the tide is low, they gather them hoping to catch some crabs in their nets. They also showed how they harvested tamilok which is a form of woodworm that, as the name implies, is found within the dead trunks of mangroves. While the locals eat these raw and simply rinsed with vinegar, chef Ric took some back to the resort to be properly dressed in some relish and vinaigrette to make it more palatable to us tourists. 

See also: Dessert darling: Meet Filipino James Beard Award winner Abi Balingit

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Pangulasian Island Resort, chef Deepanker Khosla of Haōma Bangkok
Above Pangulasian Island Resort, chef Deepanker Khosla of Haōma Bangkok
Tatler Asia
Pangulasian Island Resort
Above Pangulasian Island Resort
Pangulasian Island Resort, chef Deepanker Khosla of Haōma Bangkok
Pangulasian Island Resort

The weekend’s festivities were capped off with a cooking demonstration by chef DK with the preparation of the day’s catch in two ways: first as a traditional Indian pepper fry, and the second way simply steamed and served with Thai chilli and fermented fish sauce. These were the centrepiece of a sumptuous beachside barbecue spread prepared by Pangulasian’s highly competent banquet team and well-attended by the resort’s guests and higher management. There were plump oysters adorned with mango chutney; tuna tartare given the chef DK treatment which is one of his signature dishes in Haōma; a roast suckling pig served with an aromatic Indian-style mustard; plus a selection of fresh seafood that was grilled a la minute, plucked from the generous waters that surrounded us. 

There were many learnings from that weekend, but most poignant would be what chef DK posted as the sustainability movement’s greatest challenge—everyone thinks that it is somebody else’s responsibility to save the planet. To counter this, he proposes that we dig into man’s most primal behaviour and look at sustainability as a selfish motive. “We need to realise that we are doing this for our ourselves,” he points out. “It is something we have to do to survive and so that our children and grandchildren will still have a world to live in.”

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Jaclyn Clemente Koppe
Contributor, Tatler Philippines
Tatler Asia

Jaclyn Clemente Koppe is a food and lifestyle writer, as well as a consultant to some of the country’s beloved food and beverage brands. Her passion for food and drink is only surpassed by her devotion to her family, most especially to her soulmate, Pepa the poodle.