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Chefs Sean Jorgensen and Anna Bautista present a compelling case for their borderless cuisine that is equal parts upscale grill, modern Asian comfort food, and chic cocktail bar
It is not easy to describe Oak & Smoke— the latest addition to Salcedo Village’s restaurant resurgence— in a single breath. Because they use low-smoke, high-quality binchōtan (Japanese charcoal) to grill their premium meats, seafood, and vegetables, people have the impression that it is an Asian steakhouse, yakitori-centric izakaya, or a fancy Korean barbecue joint. However when you dive deeper into the menu and it reads like one of those modern Asian restaurants you will find in big cities all over the world that aim to make the diverse flavours of the region more “approachable.”
However, this beautifully designed Makati restaurant is neither one nor the other, or it is possibly both, but that is simply overcomplicating things. If fact, chefs Sean Jorgensen and Anna Bautista simply describe their cuisine at Oak & Smoke as “food we love to eat.” Considering the breadth of their combined experiences working in some of the best restaurants in the world, this explains the complexity of the palette (and, yes, palates) they get to work with.
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They each have their own stories to tell, but their meet-cute is what led them back to Manila. Jorgensen had already been working in Shanghai. Bautista was the new girl in town having come from a victorious gig as chef de cuisine in Michelin-starred Madera in Menlo Park, California. “I spotted Anna at the party of a common friend,” chef Jorgensen narrates, “and I was instantly curious to know more about her. I asked my friend for an introduction but I was immediately warned that she was out of my league.” Luckily, the charming gentleman from Georgia won Bautista over, and the rest as they say is history. The pandemic separated them, but as soon as he could follow Bautista to the Philippines, Jorgensen made his way over and proceeded to take root here.
After working on some consultancies, they opened Oak & Smoke together with Jorgensen in charge of the grill and hot dishes, while Bautista is responsible for cold dishes and desserts. The skewers cooked over the binchōtan are the rightful highlight— each protein is treated and embellished in ways that enhance their inherent flavour. For instance, the blue marlin benefits from a dab of wasabi, while the short ribs are brushed with a soy-mirin glaze and is served with potato salad on the side. Jorgensen draws from his Western roots and grills a mean steak, but proves his mastery of the medium by executing a star-worthy pork chop sourced from the neighborhood supermarket, showing that proper technique can make simple ingredients shine bright.
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While the binchōtan-grilled specialities are given top-billing, the Asian-themed sharing plates keep things interesting. A grilled eggplant and whipped feta-tofu is packed with flavour from the smoky grill and Chinese aromatics. I am always happy to see prawn toast on the menu, and they make a stunning one here topped with smoked quail egg and kabayaki sauce, but the crab rangoon croquettes with passion fruit sweet and sour sauce is a must-try. Seafood lovers will find joy in their bowl of mussels served with a luscious green curry made even more decadent with smoked pork neck. To take a pause from Asian flavours, opt for the fried burrata with beef ragu, tomato sauce, doubanjiang and Sichuan peppercorn.
But, if Asian comfort food is truly the order of the day, one cannot go wrong with dumplings and noodles. They elevate these humble dishes here with expert execution and refined tweaks, such as wrapping the pork and shrimp dumpling in squid ink wrapper. I asked chef Jorgensen if he made the dumplings himself and he confessed, “I have some nimble hands in the kitchen do that for me. I do not think my giant hands can pull that off.” These are steamed and laid in a shallow pool of shrimp bisque sauce and black vinegar. Their uni pasta with thick udon in parmesan cream, tobiko, bacon, nori, and lime also makes for a decadent yet comforting meal.
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If one must have a sweet ending, then the 520 Wo Ai Ni is both times rich and refreshing with a dark chocolate cremeaux topped with raspberry sorbet. However, the bar also offers some interesting pairing options for diners. Mixologist Louie Frigillano rightfully holds court here and brings with him his experience from working in the most illustrious bars in Singapore like at Raffles Singapore and Burnt Ends.
Oak & Smoke has an engaging story to tell, and most importantly, the food does not get lost in it. Their confidently executed food, elegant surroundings, and well-crafted cocktails are a recipe for a pleasant visit. There is a sincerity here that is not always present in modern Asian cuisine, and I believe it is there because the chefs truly lived through the story they are expressing. This is the kind of food that they enjoy eating, the flavours they learned to love along the way.
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Jaclyn Clemente Koppe is a food and lifestyle writer, as well as a consultant to some of the country’s beloved food and beverage brands. Her passion for food and drink is only surpassed by her devotion to her family, most especially to her soulmate, Pepa the poodle.
