What makes an authentic meal?: Chef Jereme Leung’s limited-release ‘The Emperor's Table’ menu at China Blue

Authenticity in food has a lot to do with one’s origin. Leung explains that everything he has contributed throughout his career is deeply rooted in his background. “Most people’s taste preferences are shaped by what they eat during their formative years— [typically] from around age 10 to 18. This period deeply influences their taste and preferences,” he elaborates.

He adds that it might be challenging to cook another cuisine if one’s early exposure differs from what is being prepared. “So why is it challenging for people to cook another cuisine authentically when they go overseas?” he asks. “For instance, if a Chinese chef who grew up with traditional Chinese food suddenly starts cooking Italian cuisine at 30, they might struggle to achieve the same quality as an Italian chef. This is because the food they ate as a child shaped their taste buds and culinary instincts. Even with all the recipes, their taste perception will be different, and they might find it difficult to determine whether the dish is truly original. This is why authenticity in cooking often relies on deep-rooted cultural and sensory experiences,” he says. 

In his restaurants, for instance, Leung shares that only a person with a deeper understanding of Chinese cooking traditions can truly deliver an organic experience. “To create a true Chinese dining experience, the chef must be Chinese. I would never hire an Italian chef for this role, as the results would not meet the standards expected.”

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Leung modestly reveals that despite his experience in the kitchen, he has only recently come to understand the full spectrum of Chinese dishes. He briefly discusses that different regions, such as those coming from Southeast Asia, have a different approach to Chinese cooking because of their origins.   

“Southeast Asian Chinese cuisine is quite different from that of China. Many Chinese immigrants who settled in Southeast Asia, including the Philippines, Thailand, and Singapore, came from southern China due to the civil unrest of the 1930s and 1940s. These immigrants were mainly from regions like Hokkien, Cantonese, Teochew, Hakka, and Hainan, and their descendants continue to appreciate southern Chinese food,” he states.

On one of his travels, he discovered that people from Tibet and Xinjiang experience a richness in Chinese cuisine distinct from the southern culinary traditions.“I realised that Chinese cuisine is incredibly diverse, extending well beyond the southern regions. Cities like Shanghai and regions such as Tibet and Xinjiang offer unique culinary experiences unfamiliar to those accustomed only to southern Chinese food. This revelation showed me that there is always more to discover about Chinese cuisine”. 

This year, Leung returned to his Manila restaurant, China Blue by Jereme Leung, to appease eager guests with yet another set of mouth-watering dishes for The Legendary Chef Series 2024: The Emperor’s Table. 

For the menu, Leung says that he has curated a selection that highlights diverse and signature dishes across China that are tailored to Filipino taste. “We bring together all the signature dishes of China, ensuring that each creation is unique to its location. What works in one city may not work in another—in each restaurant, we bring a menu that caters to the local palate,” he comments. 

The Emperor’s Table set menu also features ingredients Leung flew in from Shanghai. For instance, overnight, the sweet plum drunken king prawn starter dish was marinated in a Shaoxing wine-based mixture to achieve a deeper flavour. 

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The main courses—the roasted black cod with torched ginger flower, gravy sauce, and pomelo, and the Wagyu beef cheek with pistachio and green bamboo shoot—did not disappoint. Personally, these two dishes were the most impressive examples of how he masterfully brings Chinese and Filipino flavours together on his menu.

“Fortunately, I’ve had the advantage of working with a head chef who has a Filipino wife and whose children are half Filipino. This background naturally influences his cooking, making it well-suited to Filipino tastes. In this way, I’ve learnt that authentic cuisine is about understanding and respecting local preferences,” Leung shares.

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What better way to wrap up the feast than with a sweet dessert? His final dish, the creamy coconut mousse with a mango purée ‘yolk’ in the centre, does not pale in comparison to the earlier dishes. Soft, light, and a bit tangy, it rounds off the meal with a flavour you’ll want to experience again. 

Having worked in the Philippines for over 30 years and visited many beautiful places like Cebu, Palawan, and other tourist spots, Leung doesn’t claim to have mastered Filipino cuisine. Instead, he credits his deep love for the country as the key to creating sumptuous dishes.

“I've always had positive experiences. The people here are friendly, which has made my time enjoyable and enriching,” he concludes. 

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