Cover Magistracy Dining Room’s new executive chef Alyn Williams
Magistracy Dining Room’s new executive chef Alyn Williams
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Fresh off its recognition on the Tatler Dining 20 list, discover how Magistracy Dining Room’s new executive chef is bringing a taste of London’s history to Hong Kong
Nestled within the historic walls of the former Central Magistracy in Tai Kwun, Magistracy Dining Room transports diners to a bygone era of British elegance and opulence. Recently celebrated as one of the Tatler Dining 20 in Hong Kong, this establishment, curated by Black Sheep Restaurants, offers a dining experience that transcends time and tradition.
Now, as British chef Alyn Williams takes the reins, a new era unfolds. Drawing from his background growing up in East London along with his illustrious career with the likes of Marcus Wareing and Gordon Ramsay, and a passion for ingredient-driven cuisine, Williams aims to creatively infuse the menu with London’s history and heritage. We took a moment with the chef to find out more about his inspirations, the ingredient he can’t live without, and his best restaurant experience.
See also: Hansik Goo’s new head chef on what drives him in cooking and life
Above The new dressed Dungeness crab dish is served with crumpets
The new dressed Dungeness crab dish is served with crumpets
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In your own words, how would you describe your cooking style?
I think most chefs fall into one of two camps. There are those that, like me, are ingredient-driven and seasonal. Then, some are more about technique. The excitement of going from season to season with new produce, anticipating what’s coming up—that whets my appetite for being creative. So, ingredient-driven, with a light, sophisticated touch. I think quite a feminine touch in the way that I cook too.
Does your background in London influence the dishes you create at Magistracy Dining Room?
Yes, London gives me a lot of inspiration. It’s the lesser-known side and its history too. I’ve looked into a lot of historical farming in London. In the 1700s, for example, London exported more vegetables than it imported, and it was split up into areas for farming and gardening. There is a long history of seasonal produce. On the menu [at Magistracy Dining Room], there is a nod to a historical dish: beef and oysters, pie or pudding. I’ve done something along those lines, and that’s all to do with the fact that in the 1800s the [river] Thames was full of oysters. Meat was hard to come by and it was expensive, so the poor used to bulk out their meat dishes with oysters.
Growing up in East London, my dad was a keen gardener, he was the impetus behind cooking in the first place. He had a big garden and two allotments dedicated to vegetables, so his influence was huge. We were eating fantastic ingredients straight out of the ground, tasting things as they should taste. There’s a little bit of spirit and soul left in the vegetables when you eat like that.
Do you have a favourite dish from Magistracy Dining Room’s revamped menu?
I have two favourite new dishes. One is the heritage tomato tart. And it’s a favourite for its simplicity. It’s just really nice tomatoes. We make a tomato caramel with all the bits and pieces [the seeds] and then introduce Arbequina olive oil, which is a delicious, fruity, grassy Spanish olive oil which works well with it, a little bit of truffle crème fraîche on the base, and lots of fragrant herbs. It’s like sunshine on a plate.
The other one is the cod which for me is the best dish that we have on the menu right now. Steamed cod with caviar and beurre blanc blanc which, again, is quite simple but super tasty.
Above Heritage tomato tart
Above Atlantic cod with crispy caviar
Heritage tomato tart
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Who has been the biggest influence on you professionally?
The chefs that I worked under, including Marcus Wareing, who was probably the biggest influence in many ways, but alongside him, when I worked with the Gordon Ramsay group for 10 years, Angela Hartnett. She’s a close friend, but she influenced me in many ways. And then there’s Mark Askew, Gordon Ramsay’s executive chef for many years, he now works for The Ivy [Collection] but he taught me how to be a really good chef technician and how to observe. Marcus taught me beautiful cookery and Angela was all about passion and speed. We used to make ravioli together and she would do four to my one. They weren’t as perfect as mine, but they were quick!
Which book do you think every chef should read?
I would highly recommend two books. One is The Book of St. John [by Fergus Henderson and Trevor Gulliver]. Fergus is a bit of a hero of mine. A beautiful man and a fantastic cook. I think the simplicity and honesty of his cooking is why it is so popular. The cookbook is recipe after recipe of fantastic dishes. There’s no garnish or fancy stuff, it’s just brilliantly cooked tripe or beautifully prepared puddings.
The second book was an epiphany moment for me. It was while I was making my wedding cake. I spent hours in the kitchen of Petrus in London and Marcus [Wareing] had a load of books on his shelf. I read one, from start to finish, especially the foreword: Cuisine Actuelle by Joël Robuchon and Patricia Wells. It was his philosophy and the way he articulated his passion for food, but also just how to cook well—the personality and professional aptitude that you need, I think that stuck with me. And I think as a young cook, it will do you a lot of good if you read that.
What is the one ingredient you can’t live without?
Vinegar. I make my own vinegar too. There is a wide range, anything from Sarson’s malt vinegar on my chips to amazing balsamic and sherry vinegar, which is a personal favourite of mine, or kombu vinegar. It adds a bit of spark and life to almost everything. And if you’ve ever had Minus 8 vinegar which is like drinking Château Pétrus 1982, there’s a Concord grape one that is to die for.
What is the best restaurant you have ever eaten at?
The most memorable is St. John. It was nostalgic because my Dad cooked this sort of thing. We had this amazing tripe with onions, cream and breadcrumbs on the top. We had skate, trotter, a smoked eel and beetroot dish, steamed pudding and a crumble. It was just everything I love about food. The vibrancy of the restaurant, the service, and the joy of the place too, that’s what has stayed with me.
Another restaurant is Le Champignon Sauvage in Cheltenham. I worked there. The owner of the restaurant told me I should eat there before I started. I was a commie chef at 21. The food was impeccable. It was one of those meals that I’ll never forget. I had a pike and spiny lobster mousse; lamb stuffed with kidneys; and a lemon meringue pie that was unlike any other I’ve tried.
It’s your last meal—what’s on the menu?
As a starter, Heinz tomato soup. I’m addicted. I probably have it four days a week. I’ve got about 200 packs of it at home that I brought in a suitcase. The reason behind it—and my brother’s the same—is when my mom was pregnant, it was her craving and I think that’s why we love it so much.
As a main course, it’s very French; poulet de bresse en vessie (chicken enclosed in the bladder and poached in chicken broth), with a vin jaune (yellow wine) sauce and pan-fried foie gras for a bit of decadence.
I would have a little sojourn after that and then, pie and mash. Proper East London pie and mash with stewed eels and liquor (parsley sauce). When I’m at home, we go to football. I’m a big West Ham fan. I go with my son and my brother and we have pie and mash before every game.
For dessert, sticky toffee pudding. The one that we serve here [at Magistracy Dining Room] is one of the best I’ve had. It’s not my recipe but it’s bloody good, with a load of vanilla ice cream. And then I’d have a coffee with a big bar of Cadbury’s dairy milk or Bournville (a dark chocolate).
Magistracy Dining Room
British
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$ $ $ $
G/F, Central Magistracy, Tai Kwun, 1 Arbuthnot Road, Central, Hong Kong
A storyteller by day and a first-class food devourer by night, Fontaine is the Regional Dining Editor at Tatler Asia, overseeing dining content across all regions and shaping the brand’s editorial voice on food, chefs and culinary culture.
She is also Content Lead for Tatler Best and Co-jury Head for Tatler Best Hong Kong and Macau, guiding the awards’ editorial direction and evaluation process. With over a decade in the lifestyle and media industry spanning London and Hong Kong, she brings a cross-regional perspective to the table.
Follow her on Instagram at @fontimes.
