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Kurimu's founders, the husband and wife team Bryan and Maxine Kong offer a taste of Now Now (an innovative fast-casual brunch concept), and Softu (s milk soft serve ice cream brand) that they will launch in the last quarter of 2024 with chefs Mateusz and Lisane Łuczaj and lifestyle label Snow Peak
Often times, food concepts are introduced when they have gone through many stress tests and permutations. What is presented to the world is something that has been tweaked and polished for months, even years, so that what we get is the creator’s perfect interpretation of a dream. For some creatives, though, the process is just as much a part of the journey, if not the most integral.
Bryan and Maxine Kong (Kurimu, Crazy Katsu, Crazy Ramen) invited us to introduce their latest concept, Now Now, an experimental Asian brunch concept co-created with their friends, chefs Mateusz and Lisane Łuczaj. Now Now is not only primed to be a tasty pop-up and soon-to-be permanent new restaurant, but is a concept that features the Japanese outdoor lifestyle brand Snow Peak too. Currently in its incubation period, the details of when (around fourth quarter of 2024, and for 6-months or “could be more”) and how (right now it is most definitely brunch on the weekends, but it could extend to weekdays) are still mostly up in the air. What is sure is the creative vision that drives them and the talented people who will take them there.
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The modern industrial space at the ground level of Kurimu HQ in Mandaluyong has been converted into a dining room; its ceiling adorned with a gleaming installation by Chino Yulo and tables displaying eggplant and calamansi arrangements by Paraluman Flora. Framed by a large window counter, the test kitchen lies beyond where husband and wife couple Mateusz and Lisane will helm their compact team for Now Now. A recent addition to that team is sous chef Keona Liuson who just returned from her internship in VEA Hong Kong.
The collab’s creative process is rooted in their shared love for Japanese poetry, specifically that of Matsuo Bashō which paints vivid images of rural life and is a call to value simplicity, stillness, and balance. These are values that the group applies to their food and share with the Snow Peak brand too, which will make select apparel and accessories available to guests throughout the 6-month pop-up. “When we were researching for this concept, we were travelling a lot to Japan,” explains Bryan. “During one of those travels, we discovered Snow Peak and it really is just a brand that we resonated with. We reached out to them and discovered that they already have a retail presence in Manila. We expressed our desire to work with them and luckily they said yes.”
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To round out the experience, chef Mateusz— a graduate of Le Cordon Bleu Madrid and Poland Masterchef finalist— applies the same values and ideals to his dishes for Now Now which match effortlessly with his fluid, contemporary style. Having spent time in Barcelona and Copenhagen where the cuisine is very much driven by the principles of sustainability and molecular gastronomy, Mateusz’ food reflects a respectful regard for provenance, culture, and technique.
A tasting of the brunch dishes showcased Asian flavours made modern by marrying concepts that work together as well as applying techniques, such as fermenting and slow cooking, that conjure complex layers out of simple ingredients. “I welcome the challenge of having limited ingredients because it allows me to be creative with what I do have,” confesses Mateusz. He produces his own labne which tops their flatbread along with a bright gremolata. He utilises rice as they do in both Western and Eastern cuisines, and quite successfully too. A generous ball of arancini is flavoured and enriched by a shallow pool of burnt onion foam, while the steamed ma-chang is shaped like an onigiri and laced with papaya chutney, evoking childhood memories of Chinese haw flakes.
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The rich dandan noodles are cheesy and mildly spiced, a filling option to quench cravings and indulge. But what really made my Filipino heart skip a beat was Mateusz’ tortang talong dish where he applied okonomiyaki elements with toppings of bonito flakes, aonori, kewpie, and a house made koji ketchup.
While Lisane played a quiet supporting role to her husband throughout service, when it was time for the sweet ending, she beamed brightly as the rightful star. A graduate of the pastry program at École Ducasse, her experience at the Japanese bakery Takashi Ochiai in Barcelona comes in handy not only when preparing the ponchki (Polish doughnuts) for Now Now (which she stuffed with matcha creme and dulce de leche), but also for their Kurimu spin-off Softu. Opening soon in BGC, they will offer milk soft serve ice cream with bespoke toppings such as genmaicha rice crispies and matcha mochi. Lisane is tasked to come up with dreamy combinations and make the components in-house. At the time of the event, the visibly pregnant Lisane was glowing not only from her condition but because she was clearly thriving and self-possessed in her role, serving up the smooth soft serve with their ingenious toppings to offer a taste of what’s to come.
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When the Łuczajes go home to Poland for a few months to prepare for the birth of their second child, chef Keona will continue the work in the Now Now test kitchen. As they continue to develop their menu remotely with their sous chef, it is important that while they apply innovative twists to their brunch dishes, flavours remain familiar and comforting. So far, they have succeeded in doing that through a tasting that has made me curious and excited to return for more. Until they are finally ready, we will patiently wait, knowing that good things truly come to those who do.
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Jaclyn Clemente Koppe is a food and lifestyle writer, as well as a consultant to some of the country’s beloved food and beverage brands. Her passion for food and drink is only surpassed by her devotion to her family, most especially to her soulmate, Pepa the poodle.
