Cover Nic Wong is known for his pop ups at beloved restaurants across Kuala Lumpur (Photo: Nic Wong)
Nic Wong is known for his pop ups at beloved restaurants across Kuala Lumpur (Photo: Nic Wong)
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We speak to Wong about why he feels pop-ups breed creativity and innovation
If you haven’t heard of Nic Wong, you’ll likely recognise him from his quirky Instagram handle—@applefishcakes. The name is derived from his gaming username and is a combination of some of his favourite foods, but he often finds himself called the catchy nickname rather than his actual name (by myself included!). An even more recognisable trait (or talent) of Wong’s, however, is his katsudon, distinguished from other bowls by the runny sauce that is spooned over the rice and meat.
Wong and his famous katsudon have made appearances at the likes of Dou Dou Bake, Dissolved Solids, Ember, Pahit, and more; his latest initiative will be at Locus in March. But with his loyal supporters and eager following, why pop-ups over a physical restaurant or store?
Above Wong's sought-after katsudon
Wong's sought-after katsudon
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“Kitchen takeovers and pop-ups allow me to have creative freedom,” Wong smiles. “It is exciting, the customer interaction is great, and each time, the experience is totally new.”
While it may sound cliche, Wong has always wanted to cook. After completing his culinary course at KDU, he interned at the Thai restaurant Erawan, back while it was still based in Kota Damansara. When the restaurant moved to DC Mall, he followed the team to Bangkok for training during the renovation period before returning to work in the new outlet.
Above Nic Wong
Nic Wong
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As fate had it, Erawan invited a Japanese chef from Kyoto over for a collaboration. “I jokingly asked if I could work with them, and to my surprise, they obliged,” he grins. Wong joined the team in Japan and remained in the country for half a year, working at three different restaurants.
See also: Tatler Dining Guide 2024: The best Indian and Sri Lankan restaurants in Malaysia
“My katsudon draws inspiration from one of the courses my head chef in Japan used to serve, which featured the sauce,” he enthuses. “It is just egg and soy sauce, but I could drink it and always used to ask for leftovers.” The luscious sauce is the secret to his katsu don—he is so confident in it that originally, he planned to serve rice layered with the sauce alone.
Wong planned to return to Japan eventually, but the pandemic hit, and he stumbled upon the opportunity for his first pop up at Dissolved Solids by accident. “Someone had pulled out of a takeover, and a friend of mine asked if I would like to replace them,” he recalls. “I am introverted by nature, so I was hesitant, but right after, I was addicted due to the energy and interaction with customers.”
Above Katsudon
Katsudon
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Wong feels that collaborating with other industry players also creates a ground for innovation and new ideas. “For instance, I never thought of fermenting chicken in sourdough starter, but we managed it when I worked with the Dou Dou Bake team,” he says.
Above Wong believes collaborations breed new ideas
Wong believes collaborations breed new ideas
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When asked to share a piece of advice for those looking to enter the realm of pop ups and showcase their food, he reiterates the last piece of advice his head chef in Kyoto shared: “Cook with your heart. Don’t focus on perfection, and be flexible as things can change on the day—just keep your head up, and keep going.”
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Photography: Nick Wong
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About
Katelyn is the dining and travel editor of Malaysia and Indonesia. Based in Kuala Lumpur, she offers readers an inside look at the movers and shakers in Asia’s growing food and beverage industry.
