Cover The view from Molina is punctuated by the Petronas Twin Towers (Photo: Molina)

World-renowned Dutch chef Sidney Schutte is chef-owner of Amsterdam’s Spectrum, executive chef of Mexico’s Cocina de Autor, and now, co-owner of Kuala Lumpur’s Molina

When Sidney Schutte first visited the site that is now Molina, located on the 51st floor of The Face Style, it was open-air and completely bare, allowing guests of wind to billow through the space. “Back in Holland, where I come from, we do not have skyscrapers—the closest thing we have is windmills,” he says. This is where the restaurant draws its namesake, a direct translation of the Latin word for windmill. 

In the case of Molina’s menu, Schutte also draws from his Northern European roots. “I come from the South of the Netherlands, near the seaside, which is where I began to cook,” he smiles. My heart lies in seafood, whether langoustines and scallops or razor clams and oysters.” As such, the crustaceans and fish of his childhood form the bulk of the elegant menu, expertly complemented by lesser-seen vegetables in this part of the world, such as white asparagus, sunchoke, and fennel.

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Above Sidney Schutte

While his culinary journey began in the Netherlands, he began working in Belgium early in his career, cutting his chops at the two-Michelin star Restaurant Scholteshof, then at the age of 21, the three-Michelin star De Librije, where he worked as chef de cuisine for 10 years. Schutte then decided it was time for a break and travelled the world, finally settling down in Hong Kong, where he continued his career at Amber at The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, where he was appointed executive chef after four years. 

The opportunity to head the restaurant at the Waldorf Astoria Amsterdam arose, and Schutte uprooted from Asia, heading the now two-Michelin star Spectrum, which has been open for a decade. More recently, he opened Cocina de Autor at The Grand Velas Los Cabos Hotel in Mexico, which had just been awarded a Michelin star a week prior to when I met the accomplished chef.

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Above Molina's luxurious interior

From his experience in Hong Kong, Schutte felt his time in Asia was not over, and a serendipitous meeting with The Face Suites’ owner was the spur that led to the opening of Molina. “During a culinary tour through Europe, he visited Spectrum and felt the experience was completely novel,” Schutte smiles. “When I took a trip to Kuala Lumpur to visit [The Face Suites], everything was complete, except this space on the 51st floor, and I felt it was just waiting for me.” As such, Molina, as it stands today, was born. 

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Above Schutte draws from his expertise for the first iteration of Molina's menu

When I visit Molina, the team is set to open their doors to the public the very same week, and the restaurant runs like a well-oiled machine, with the kitchen led by head chef Guillaume Depoortere, who hails from Belgium. The private room, located just up the stairs from the entrance, boasts sprawling skyline views punctuated by the Petronas Twin Towers, which Schutte tells me reminds him of two sparkling candles. “What is also very special is our exceptional wine list, especially the Bordeaux selection, which ranges from normal wines to some of the very best in the world, from every vintage,” he smiles.

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Above Molina's menu combines French techniques with Northern European sensibilities

One of the major difficulties faced by the restaurant during the initial stages was sourcing ingredients. “In Europe, when you order produce, it will come the next day and will be of the best quality,” he says. “However, as the fine dining scene here is less developed, there is still room for growth when it comes to logistics.” When combating this, Schutte notes the hospitality he has received from local chefs and those within the F&B industry when it comes to suppliers and contacts, which left him pleasantly surprised.

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Above While many ingredients come from Europe and Japan, Schutte hopes to incorporate more local produce in the future

“One of the most important things as a chef is to be close to suppliers and understanding the product,” he says. “While we currently import most of our ingredients, we want to be able to get the best produce we can, and look to use more local ingredients in the future.”

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Above Molina’s team

Even with two other restaurants, Schutte plans to visit in Kuala Lumpur often. “I love the richness in culture and food of Kuala Lumpur, and seeing people excited about Molina bringing something new to the table is a special feeling,” he says. “What we are doing is something no one else does, and I feel that Molina can change the future of fine dining.” 

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Images: Molina

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Katelyn Tan
Dining and Travel Editor, Malaysia & Indonesia, Tatler Malaysia
Tatler Asia

About

Katelyn is the dining and travel editor of Malaysia and Indonesia. Based in Kuala Lumpur, she offers readers an inside look at the movers and shakers in Asia’s growing food and beverage industry.