Cover Masaru Knives’ Wayne Wong (Photo: Daniel Adams)

We speak to the sous chef of Dewakan about how he delved into entrepreneurship

“Every chef needs a knife,” says Wayne Wong. It may sound obvious, but the sentence is why Wong started Masaru Knives, which imports premium Japanese knives and matches them with consumers. Trained in the culinary arts, Wong began his career in Malaysia and faced a dilemma when purchasing his first knife.

“Other than American and Japanese websites, there weren’t any physical stores or platforms I could consult,” he recalls. “I bought my first knife online and ended up spending a large sum picking something that did not suit me.” 

Wong found himself having purchased a knife that was too long for tasks he needed: “There was no interaction or consultation, let alone being able to hold or have a feel of the tool.” As such, he was inspired to close the gap between knife producers and buyers, preventing others from making the same mistake he did.

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Above Wayne Wong is also the sous chef at Dewakan

Wong began Masaru Knives during the pandemic, a time when Japanese blacksmiths were also on the hunt for new partners: “The restaurant business was slow at the time, so with free time on my hands, I decided to take a chance and delve into entrepreneurship.” While he now spends most of his free time running Masaru Knives, it is not Wong’s main job—he works as the sous chef at Dewakan

Since he was young, Wong has always been skilled in handicrafts and sensory subjects, from arts to music. “I pursued a culinary course at Taylor’s Culinary School and furthered my studies in Toulouse, in the south of France,” he smiles. While Wong toyed with the idea of remaining in Europe, he realised that while he was trained in French techniques, he knew next to nothing about Malaysian heritage food. “It struck me that I was learning to cook based on other cultures without even being familiar with my own roots,” he tells me.

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Above Masaru Knives' selection of stainess steel knives

Upon returning to Kuala Lumpur, it was only fitting that Wong decided to begin his career at Dewakan, known for championing local produce and cuisine. “It was my first job, and I have been there ever since,” he chuckles.

When asked about balancing his chef role and knife business, Wong admits that juggling the two proves difficult and requires sacrifice. “When my colleagues are resting or out having fun, I’m at home wrapping knives,” he says. “After I get home from my job, which is usually past midnight, I start organising orders, packaging the product, and ensuring the knives are ready for shipment the following day.”

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Above The Rainbow Damascus, made by master Takeshi Saji

While hours are extensive, Wong is proud to be able to advise customers on purchasing premium Japanese knives. “Masaru means superior in Japanese,” he explains. “We began with this name, as our products are not typical kitchen knives—we want to be the brand to go to when one is looking for quality.”

He further expands on what makes a good knife: “Japanese knives are considered premium as most, or traditional ones at least, are hand-forged.” Typically, knives made in Europe or America are not heat-treated. Instead, machines are used to stamp out knife outlines from a plate of metal before being sharpened. In comparison, traditional Japanese knives are made by heating a piece of metal to a specific temperature before it is hammered into a knife shape.

“The heating and hammering process not only softens the metal, allowing it to be moulded but also strengthens it,” explains Wong. “Impurities are released, so what is left is steel in its purest form, referred to as blue or white steel, which can go up to a higher hardness.” This also means the knife will be sharper and longer lasting.

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Above Masaru means superior in Japanese

When it comes to quality, the most prominent aspect to look for is sharpness. “A sharp knife smoothens any task, making execution easier and allowing for a higher standard,” Wong elaborates. He uses the example of fine slicing for chives or onions. “It also prevents the bruising of ingredients such as fish or meat, while cleaner cuts reduce moisture release.”

The first decision to be made when deciding on a knife is the type of steel. “Two major types are stainless or high carbon steel,” Wong explains. “A characteristic of steel is its sharpness and edge retention, and any knife can be very sharp if one knows how to sharpen it.”

However, how long this sharpness lasts depends on the type of steel and craftsmanship. “Carbon steel will retain its edge longer than stainless steel due to a higher hardness,” he says. When it comes to craftsmanship, Masaru Knives does not skimp on quality: “We are working with two blacksmiths in Japan, one for our stainless steel line and the other for our carbon steel line.”

For users who don’t have time on their hands to practise proper knife-caring techniques, Wong typically recommends stainless steel as it does not rust. However, to those who are looking for higher performance or more characteristics, he recommends carbon steel, which requires regular oiling.

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Above Wong melts glue with a torch, producing smoke, to attach a custom-made handle to a blade

Wong makes it a point to interact with all his customers who express interest in purchasing a knife through a consultation. “I always try to understand what one is using it for, whether home or professional use, to ensure the knife is suitable,” he says. His culinary background allows him to better match users with knives in terms of length and steel: “Often, customers might not even know what they need until after we have spoken.”

Talking through the different kinds of Japanese knives he stocks, from the multi-purpose Santoku to the flat-tipped Nakiri and Sujihiki slicer, it is clear Wong is an expert in the field. While the knives come with an original Japanese handle, customisation options that Masaru Knives offers include changing the grip to one made with Malaysian wood.

“For customised handles, we work closely with a wood maker who uses local wood burl sourced from the Orang Asli community,” Wong beams. “We are proud to be able to give back and support local artisans in what we do.”

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Above The selection of handles made from local wood burl

While Masaru Knives does not currently have a physical store (consultations occur in customer’s homes or at Wong’s personal residence), customers can browse through a selection at the knife display counter in Tsutaya Books. Wong expresses his hopes for the future: “I want to be able to further spread the culture of Japanese craftsmanship while equipping people with the skills to maintain premium knives.”

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Photography  

Daniel Adams

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