Cover Mexican chef Maribel Colmenares is confident Singapore is ready for tamales (Photo: Mami’s Tamales)
Mexican chef Maribel Colmenares is confident Singapore is ready for tamales (Photo: Mami’s Tamales)
1 / 1
Chef-founder Maribel Colmenares tells us everything you need to know about tamales, and why she thinks Singapore is ready for the Latin American staple
Ask any Singaporean about Mexican cuisine and you’d probably receive an answer in brevity, containing mostly references to tacos and burritos. But hardly ever the tamale. Now, things are about to change with Mami’s Tamales, Singapore’s—and possibly, Asia’s—first Mexican tamale-centric restaurant. During the launch, Tatler Dining spoke with Mami’s Tamales Mexican chef-founder Maribel Colmenares to unwrap everything there’s to know about the Mexican staple, and how it has a place in Singapore’s dynamic gastronomic scene.
Read more: Acclaimed Japanese chef Yoshihiro Narisawa to open Bees by Narisawa in Singapore this August
Above The classic pork salsa verde tamale at Mami’s Tamales
The classic pork salsa verde tamale at Mami’s Tamales
1 / 1
So what exactly is a tamale? By definition, it is a traditional Mexican dish made from masa, a dough made from nixtamalised corn, and stuffed with various fillings such as meats, cheeses, fruits, vegetables, or chillies. Then, it is wrapped in either corn husks or banana leaves before steaming. Its origins date back to ancient civilisations like the Aztecs, Mayans and Olmecs from Mesoamerica between 8000 and 5000 B.C. Tamale is derived from the Nahuatl word ‘tamal’ which means to wrap.
“Back then, tamales were considered sacred and often used in rituals as an offering to the gods. Today, tamales are part of everyday life in Mexico, commonly enjoyed communally and during festive occasions,” says Colmenares, on how the tamale became popular as a national cultural food of Mexico after the Spanish conquest of the Aztec empire almost 500 years ago.
Above A picture taken in 2001 of a Colmenares family gathering where Maribel’s grandmother, in the centre, holds up a tamale (Photo: Maribel Colmenares)
A picture taken in 2001 of a Colmenares family gathering where Maribel’s grandmother, in the centre, holds up a tamale (Photo: Maribel Colmenares)
1 / 1
Colmenares has always had a special affinity with tamales. Her favourite memory hails from childhood, making tamales with her grandmother and mother in Puebla, Mexico. To make ends meet, her single-parent household sold tamales out of a tamal stall over the weekends, where they even “came up with new creations such as piña colada and lemon custard dessert tamales.” Of course, Colmenares’ favourite part was eating them. But it may be more than just making food as Colmenares reminiscences the stories and laughter shared amongst family over the highly communal activity, connecting loved ones through food.
In case you missed it: Renowned chef André Chiang officially announces closure of Raw Taipei
Above Chef Mauricio Espinoza Lara of Papi’s Tacos and Maribel Colmenares of Mami’s Tamales
Chef Mauricio Espinoza Lara of Papi’s Tacos and Maribel Colmenares of Mami’s Tamales
1 / 1
To share this cherished part of her heritage with Singapore as well as satisfy her cravings, serving up authentic Mexican tamales was the only solution. Leaving a cushy job as a marketing director in Ed-Tech behind, Colmenares dipped her toes into the local food and beverage scene where she started a home-based business, Tamales Mexicanos en Singapur. “To introduce Singapore to the authentic taste and cultural richness of Mexican cuisine, beyond what is typically available in other Mexican restaurants here, I deliberately chose not to offer tacos, burritos, chimichangas, or quesadillas,” affirms Colmenares.
Her next move saw her pop up in a brick-and-mortar location at a second-floor shophouse along Keong Saik, without extensive marketing efforts. There, she met with Mauricio Espinoza Lara from popular Mexican taqueria Papi’s Tacos and they hit it off instantly. This connection led to the inception of Mami’s Tamales where it takes over a cosy 35-seater space in Keong Saik from now until October. And depending on demand—there was already a healthy lunch crowd when Tatler visited during the launch, it may well become a permanent fixture on the iconic street.
Above The Mami’s Tamales sharing platter that is good for groups
The Mami’s Tamales sharing platter that is good for groups
1 / 1
Making sure the tamales at Mami’s Tamales stay true to their traditional roots, Colmenares offers classic Mexican varieties like “salsa verde, tinga (chipotle), and chilli pepper tamales.” She has also adapted traditional Mexican flavours to be vegan and vegetarian, to be inclusive without compromising on flavour. In hopes of preserving traditional cooking methods while minimising carbon footprint, Colmenares sources local ingredients whenever possible. Although key ingredients, like specific chillies and tomatillos, are sourced from Mexico to maintain authenticity.
Above The curry tempeh tamale is part of Colmenares’ Asian-inspired tamales
The curry tempeh tamale is part of Colmenares’ Asian-inspired tamales
1 / 1
To appeal to a diverse audience, especially in Singapore, Colmenares has tinkered up Asian-inspired tamales with some familiar local recipes for the uninitiated to “appreciate the masa before fully experiencing the traditional Mexican tamales.” Think of a peppery ayam sambal hijau tamale or a salmon tom yum that reminds of a punchy sardine epok epok. At first glance, the innate Singaporean scepticism may render some hesitation but don’t knock it until you try it. Instead, mix and match various tamales when you order the tamale-sharing platter. And don’t miss out on the perfectly salted guacamole, made tableside using fresh Mexican avocados tableside.
Above Making a tamale from scratch takes at least three hours to prepare (Photo: Getty Images)
Making a tamale from scratch takes at least three hours to prepare (Photo: Getty Images)
1 / 1
Is the tamale here to stay? Only time will tell. But Colmenares remains confident and believes Singapore is ready to welcome another Mexican staple onto its plates. “Diners in Singapore are adventurous and eager to try new dishes, and introducing tamales to this vibrant food culture has been met with curiosity and enthusiasm,” she expounds. “Transporting people’s taste buds all the way to Mexico with my cooking, even if they have never been there, is my favourite part.”
Singapore’s lasting appreciation for tamales starts with educating and engaging with the community, and Colmenares is certainly doing so, one tamale at a time.
Mami’s Tamales
Address: 55 Keong Saik Road, 01-02, S(089158)
Credits
Images: Mami’s Tamales
