Cover The various produce in the Kota Bharu market, many of which were introduced via trade (Photo by Jerry Redfern/LightRocket via Getty Images)
The various produce in the Kota Bharu market, many of which were introduced via trade (Photo by Jerry Redfern/LightRocket via Getty Images)
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From ancient trade routes to modern kitchens, the heart of Malay culture beats through its food
Malays, the dominant ethnic group of Malaysia, have cemented the expression of their traditional culture through their flavourful cuisine. The majority of the culture that is preserved is attributable to the significance placed on food within cultural practices, bolstered with their emphasis on community. Malay food is rich not only in flavour, but in history; a representation of the synergistic effect brought together by the fusion of various ethnic groups, enriched by a complex acculturation of Malaysia’s neighbouring countries and regions. With a whole host of dishes, the common types of Malay foods found are stews and other side dishes such as stir-fries, spicy, fragrant with aromatics, and are usually served with rice.
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Above The national dish of Malaysia, the Nasi Lemak (Image: Food'n Road)
The national dish of Malaysia, the Nasi Lemak (Image: Food'n Road)
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According to excerpts from Journal of Ethnic Foods written by researchers from University Putra Malaysia, the culinary history of Malaysia is the amalgamation of various global influences bleeding into Malaysian soil, and it began in the early 13th century in Melaka. Once a small, humble, fishing village, it grew into a significant port, and later was strategically positioned as a harbour used for trade. With an influx of foreign foods, the local flavour palate was influenced by the arrival of exotic ingredients. Spices such as cardamom, pepper, cloves, and exotic vegetables started to find its way into the home kitchen.
At the same time, Europeans were also venturing into Southeast Asia. The Portuguese were the first to lay colonial claim on Malaysia, followed by the Dutch and English. On a quest for spices, they also brought with them a plethora of new ingredients into the Malaysian diet, including peanuts, pineapples, avocados, tomatoes, squash, and pumpkins—many of which are staples in modern-day Malaysia.
Above The various produce in the Kota Bharu market, many of which were introduced via trade (Photo by Jerry Redfern/LightRocket via Getty Images)
The various produce in the Kota Bharu market, many of which were introduced via trade (Photo by Jerry Redfern/LightRocket via Getty Images)
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The opening of the Malaysian ports allowed the evolution of traditional Malaysian cuisine to flourish, including Indonesian, Indian, Middle Eastern, Chinese, and Thai influences. These cultures assimilated into the cultural fabric of Malaysia, enriching the gastronomic heritage. Notably, Indian and Chinese influence can be seen from the large influx of Indian and Chinese people migrating to Malaysia to work in tin mines and rubber plantations during British colloquial rule. Indian influence includes curry leaves, fenugreek, and okra, whilst the Chinese brought star anise, fermented bean pastes, and many more.
Regional differences between the culinary landscape is also a byproduct of the acculturation and migration from our neighbouring countries. The northern states of Penang, Perlis, and Kedah, which are closer to Thailand, demonstrate a shared palate that leans more toward the spicy and sour flavour profiles in comparison to the other regions. In the southern and central regions of Malaysia, Indonesian influences are seen more frequently. The sour, sweet, and spicy characteristics of Javanese cuisine, particularly from the Minangkabau people from West Sumatra, can be seen in dishes from Negeri Sembilan. Popular dishes such as rendang minang and masak lemak cili padi feature extensive use of thick coconut milk and spices, as well as other ingredients such as ox meat, beef, and cultivated vegetables, which can be attributed to the Indonesians.
See more: Penang holds a unique position within Malaysia’s dining landscape
Above Torch ginger, galangal, turmeric, and other spices and herbs from Penang Tropical Spice Garden (Photo by John S Lander/LightRocket via Getty Images)
Torch ginger, galangal, turmeric, and other spices and herbs from Penang Tropical Spice Garden (Photo by John S Lander/LightRocket via Getty Images)
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In a few instances of these mergers, a new cuisine is born. Nyonya, or Peranakan cuisine, is the mix of Malay and Chinese cuisines that originated from Melaka. Other popular fusion cuisines include Kristang cuisine, the fusion of Malaysian and Portuguese cuisines, and Chitty cuisine, a mix of Malay and Indian.
The landscape of ingredients for Malay cooking is quite distinct yet diverse, with each region having its own nuances in flavour profiles based on the hyperlocal flora and fauna available. In Malay kitchens, there is a whole host of ingredients and aromatics that are used to enhance their food, including plant stems, such as bunga kanta (touch ginger), roots, such as ginger and galangal, and other spices such as jintan putih (cumin) and cengkih (cloves). The term rempah, a spice paste, wet or dry, is made from these herbs and used in preparation for marination or curries and rendang.
Above Peranakan cuisine (Image: Candlenut)
Peranakan cuisine (Image: Candlenut)
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Tending to err on the side of labour-intensive, an important element of Malay cooking is time. In a traditional kitchen, you’ll find in its arsenal a lesung batu (pestle and mortar), batu giling (hand grinder, and kukur kelapa (coconut grater). The use of these traditional tools is believed to provide a vibrancy in flavour that pales in comparison to using its modern counterparts.
We believe that ingredients are more than just food. They also communicate history, culture, and a sense of belonging. Through centuries of migration and trade, various influences merged to produce a distinctive harmony of flavours and cooking methods that formed Malay cuisine,
Above The extraction of coconut flesh, used in many traditional Malay dishes (Photo by Soumyabrata Roy/NurPhoto via Getty Images)
The extraction of coconut flesh, used in many traditional Malay dishes (Photo by Soumyabrata Roy/NurPhoto via Getty Images)
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Malay food is a complex hodgepodge of history, geography, climate, and social values that delve into the what, when, where, and who. It is essential in preserving tradition and culture, and the value it brings is more than the sum of its parts. The associated preparation techniques, social customs, and table etiquette provide a connection to historical and cultural roots, core parts of our identities.
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Keandra's expertise lies within writing deep dives into the culture and anthropology of food, sometimes with a philosophical twist. With a background in London's F&B consultancy scene, she's excited to be back in Kuala Lumpur to champion the local dining scene.
Reach her at keandra.hing@tatlerasia.com, @keandruh
