Cover Inside the newly reopened L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon at Landmark Hong Kong, a refreshed space where enduring French signatures meet the city’s own rhythms
Inside the newly reopened L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon at Landmark Hong Kong, a refreshed space where enduring French signatures meet the city’s own rhythms
1 / 1
After an eight-month hiatus for relocation and renovation, Robuchon’s Hong Kong atelier reopens, carrying forward its philosophy with new fire and local nuance
Hong Kong thrives on reinvention. Dining rooms appear, dazzle and vanish; the carousel never stops turning. But when L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon closed its doors for relocation earlier this year, the absence felt a little different. This was a restaurant that had shaped the city’s understanding of French gastronomy for nearly two decades. The reopening, eight months on and in its new Landmark address, may carry the perfume of nostalgia, but it also marks the beginning of a story about how legacy can adapt while remaining true to itself.
For executive chef Julien Tongourian, also of Robuchon au Dôme in Macau, who worked alongside Joël Robuchon for 25 years, the reopening is both weight and privilege. “We don’t want to change the philosophy of Monsieur Robuchon too much,” he says. “We are back with our signature dishes: the caviar jelly, the langoustine ravioli, and of course, the Rossini."
Above Le Caviar Impérial de Sologne with lobster jelly, fresh crab, caviar and a whisper of cauliflower cream
Le Caviar Impérial de Sologne with lobster jelly, fresh crab, caviar and a whisper of cauliflower cream
1 / 1
These signatures have lost none of their theatre. Le Caviar Impérial de Sologne arrives as a shimmering mosaic of caviar and cauliflower cream, layered with lobster jelly and fresh crab. Deceptively simple, technically relentless. The langoustine ravioli, glossed with truffle, is luxuriously filled, one of those dishes that reminds you why Robuchon’s name carries such weight. And the Rossini: Wagyu châteaubriand paired with foie gras, is slow-cooked until it yields like velvet.
“For our guests, it should feel like going back home,” he says, though quick to stress this isn’t a nostalgia act. “We want to bring back the French tradition of having a dinner party. Big pieces to share, beautiful plating, and private rooms where guests can enjoy together. Always with the philosophy of Robuchon, but more in the spirit of Hong Kong, where people love to share.”
That attentiveness to the city is something chef de cuisine Fabiana Miccoli has taken to heart. She talks of simplicity as Robuchon defined it: not absence, but exacting technique. “The most challenging thing to achieve is the simplest one. Mr Robuchon taught us that simplicity is the hardest. You must master techniques and choose the right produce every day. That is how we keep authenticity alive.” She adds a local lens: “It’s more about understanding the culture. Going for dim sum, understanding textures people love, and the balance between salt and sugar. Even the first time I went to Sai Kung and saw tanks of live fish, I thought, Wow, we need to do that. So now we choose the freshest local fish, sometimes Japanese if not local, but always the best nearby.” Miccoli admits the challenge is immense. “It’s an honour. We wake up every day and do what we can to provide the best. It’s a big challenge, but a beautiful one.”
Above The new 18,000 square-foot space welcomes back the familiar 32-seat Atelier counter
The new 18,000 square-foot space welcomes back the familiar 32-seat Atelier counter
1 / 1
The new Landmark space gives that philosophy room to breathe. At more than 18,000 square feet, it holds not just one but two distinct stages: the familiar 32-seat Atelier counter, where the signature red-and-black palette remains and chefs work within arm’s reach of diners, and Le Jardin, a 68-seat dining room designed for banquets and private gatherings.
Le Jardin can be divided into three or four private rooms, each named after a flower: rose, marguerite, pensée and camélia, small gestures towards Robuchon’s ideas of elegance, purity and calm. Menus, too, will diverge: the counter retains the intimacy of Robuchon signatures plated before your eyes, while Le Jardin leans towards conviviality, with larger shared dishes, a French tradition tuned for Hong Kong.
A fifth space, the La Cornue Room, will follow later this year, an opulent showcase kitchen fitted with bespoke French appliances. The cellar, meanwhile, has quadrupled in size, with more than 3,400 labels and access to the Lisboa Group’s extraordinary Macau collection.
Above Le Jardin is the set of dining rooms designed for banquets and private gatherings
Le Jardin is the set of dining rooms designed for banquets and private gatherings
1 / 1
CEO Carl Tang on what the project represents, says, “This return is about resilience and vision. For Hong Kong diners, we aim to revive a trusted legend with renewed energy. For the world, it is a statement: Joël Robuchon in Hong Kong remains a global icon. That we are still excellent, and we are worth experiencing.” On a personal note, he adds, “Every achievement never comes by chance. It is always earned. This project is a milestone not just for the company, but for me too.”
What emerges is not a grand reinvention, nor a static preservation. It is something subtler: a restaurant honouring the uncompromising philosophy of its founder while allowing Hong Kong’s rhythms to shape it. The signatures remain, but the spirit feels more open, more attuned to sharing and conviviality.
Tongourian says it plainly: “We haven't changed the flavour. Our base is stable. But we have changed the presentation. The sentiment is always the same: to create pleasure and make our guests happy.” It’s a modest declaration, but perhaps the most fitting tribute: a kitchen not chasing reinvention, but quietly keeping faith with Robuchon’s vision.”
Above The Robuchon Rossini is Wagyu châteaubriand paired with foie gras
Above Langoustine ravioli with truffle, with a creamy foie gras sauce
The Robuchon Rossini is Wagyu châteaubriand paired with foie gras
1 / 2
A storyteller by day and a first-class food devourer by night, Fontaine is the Regional Dining Editor at Tatler Asia, overseeing dining content across all regions and shaping the brand’s editorial voice on food, chefs and culinary culture.
She is also Content Lead for Tatler Best and Co-jury Head for Tatler Best Hong Kong and Macau, guiding the awards’ editorial direction and evaluation process. With over a decade in the lifestyle and media industry spanning London and Hong Kong, she brings a cross-regional perspective to the table.
Follow her on Instagram at @fontimes.
