Cover Kyujin doesn't allow the constructs of a traditional menu to restrict them from exemplifying Sarawak’s culinary heritage and biodiversity (Image: Kyujin)
Kyujin doesn't allow the constructs of a traditional menu to restrict them from exemplifying Sarawak’s culinary heritage and biodiversity (Image: Kyujin)
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Lesser known produce from the Bornean rainforest finds its way onto dinner tables at Kyujin
The bounty of the Bornean rainforest finds a new lease on life at the Sarawak-based Kyujin. The establishment offers an exploration of hyperlocal produce through the lens of Sibu-born chef Alex Ting, whose culinary career has come full circle, with Kyujin serving as Ting’s canvas for showcasing the lesser known treasures of his homeland.
Having worked in kitchens across Asia, Ting was prompted by the pandemic to return to Sarawak. The move left him pondering the question: “What if the world stopped and we had to be self-sufficient?” In time, Kyujin grew to be the answer. Often overlooked, Borneo’s endemic ingredients became the stars of Kyujin’s show, awarding a little-known facet of Malaysia’s already diverse culinary heritage the spotlight it deserves. Hyperlocal produce is the hero of each dish, elevated by Ting’s deeply personal approach and inspiration drawn from the local Dayak community.
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Above Laksa 5.0 (Image: Kyujin)
Above Bitter gourd (Image: Kyujin)
Laksa 5.0 (Image: Kyujin)
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The restaurant foregoes traditional menus and instead lets ingredients dictate each service’s offerings, captivating diners not only with its drastic pivot from restaurant tradition but with dishes that exemplify Sarawak’s culinary heritage and biodiversity.
Despite a constantly evolving lineup and a no-menu concept, the Sarawak Laksa is still one of the restaurant’s most talked-about creations, featuring vibrant notes of calamansi, prawns, and silken coconut milk. Another exceptional dish showcases white pearl bitter gourd, served raw and pickled, contrasted by a savoury salted egg yolk sorbet, exemplifying the restaurant’s skill of reimagining tradition.
See also: Musician Belle Sisoski is blending Sarawakian heritage with modern music
Above The team at Kyujin (Image: Kyujin)
The team at Kyujin (Image: Kyujin)
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Kyujin’s beverage programme is equally committed to celebrating East Malaysian heritage, offering patrons both bespoke wine and tuak pairings.
Looking ahead, the restaurant plans to work closely with farmers, foragers, fishermen, and other local artisans to foster a more complete narrative of Sarawak’s gastronomic potential, uniting both traditional knowledge and contemporary innovation.
About
Chelsea is a Dining Writer for Tatler Malaysia. When she’s not eating or writing about eating, she’s probably deciphering which oat milks froth the best for homemade flat whites.
Work
Chelsea writes about where to find great food and is passionate about exploring the cultural significance of different cuisines.
