Cover Johnson Wong, the chef-owner of Gēn and its sister outlets in George Town, Penang (Photo: Gēn)
Johnson Wong, the chef-owner of Gēn and its sister outlets in George Town, Penang (Photo: Gēn)
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From a produce-driven tasting menu at Gēn to a new exploration of Malaysia’s Chinese culinary heritage at Root House by Gēn, chef-owner Johnson Wong is building a restaurant group that reflects the evolving identity of George Town
Penang has long been celebrated for its vibrant street food culture, and no visit is complete without indulging in local favourites such as char kway teow, asam laksa and nasi kandar. In recent years, however, the island’s dining landscape has expanded beyond its hawker heritage, thanks to a new generation of Malaysian chefs eager to showcase the region as a multifaceted culinary destination. One of the figures leading this evolution is Johnson Wong, the chef-owner behind Gēn, Communal Table by Gēn, Wine Not and, most recently, Root House by Gēn.
A graduate of Le Cordon Bleu Sydney, Wong honed his craft at acclaimed restaurants including Restaurant Kei in Paris and Joël Robuchon in Macau before returning to Malaysia to helm the kitchen at Macalister Mansion in Penang. Coming home after a decade abroad gave him a renewed appreciation for Malaysia’s remarkable diversity of produce, people and culinary traditions. That homecoming became the foundation for Gēn, the ingredient-led restaurant he opened in George Town in 2018 with the ambition of translating “our Malaysian story” onto the dining table.
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Gēn in George Town, Penang is Wong’s love letter to Malaysian cuisine
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Named after the Mandarin word for “root”, Gēn has always been grounded in Malaysian ingredients. In its earlier iteration, the restaurant sought to reinterpret familiar memories and flavours through a contemporary lens. Over time, however, Wong’s philosophy shifted towards a more produce-driven approach, allowing ingredients themselves to shape the creative process.
Each menu begins with what is in season. Working closely with farmers, foragers and artisanal producers across Malaysia, Wong and his team create a dish around a single ingredient, exploring its many possibilities through months of research and experimentation. Courses are named simply after their hero ingredient, which reflects Wong’s belief that the finest produce deserves to take centre stage.
That philosophy extends beyond the kitchen. By championing biodiversity, supporting small-scale producers and collaborating with local artisans, Wong has sought to build a more sustainable ecosystem around the restaurant, demonstrating that a meaningful dining experience begins long before the ingredients arrive on the plate.
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Above Communal Table by Gēn
Communal Table by Gēn
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As Gēn cemented his identity, Wong’s ambitions naturally expanded beyond a single restaurant. Rather than replicate the flagship, he developed complementary concepts that express different facets of the same philosophy while remaining firmly rooted in George Town.
Communal Table by Gēn offers a more casual interpretation of the group’s ingredient-first ethos, creating an approachable space where guests can experience the same commitment to seasonality and local produce in a more relaxed setting. Wine Not, meanwhile, reflects the city’s increasingly sophisticated dining culture, pairing thoughtful food with an accessible wine programme that encourages lingering conversations long after dinner.
His latest venture, Root House by Gēn, represents the next step in that evolution. Set within the historic 1926 Heritage Hotel in the heart of George Town, the restaurant shifts the focus from individual ingredients to the journeys that shaped Malaysian cuisine. Through the concept of the “cycle of flavours”, the menu explores how migration, trade and the passage of time have influenced the country’s culinary identity, drawing inspiration from the traditions of the Hokkien, Cantonese, Fuzhou, Teochew, Hakka and Hainanese communities. Rather than recreating familiar dishes, Root House reinterprets these culinary legacies for a new generation, connecting history with contemporary dining.
Above Root House by Gēn (Photo: yzhensiang)
Above Root House by Gēn (Photo: yzhensiang)
Root House by Gēn (Photo: yzhensiang)
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Together, Gēn, Communal Table, Wine Not and Root House illustrate the evolution of both Wong and George Town itself. While each concept offers a distinct experience, all are united by a shared commitment to celebrating Malaysian ingredients, heritage and community through a contemporary lens.
The journey is far from over. Later this year, Gēn will relocate to its new home at the Rice Miller Hotel, marking another milestone for the restaurant seven years after it first opened its doors. The move promises not only a new setting, but also another opportunity for Wong to continue refining his vision of modern Malaysian cuisine—one that remains deeply rooted in place while constantly looking towards the future.
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Images: Gēn
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Dudi Aureus is the senior dining and travel editor at Tatler Singapore, covering the city’s most exciting restaurants, global travel trends, and the personalities shaping the culinary and lifestyle scenes. She also serves as co-jury chair for the Tatler Best awards in Singapore, celebrating the very best in hospitality. When she’s off duty, she can often be found at a favourite hole-in-the-wall Thai spot, savouring a perfectly balanced pad thai.
