Cover Chef-owner Satoru Tanaka of Nikuya Tanaka opens his first international outpost in Singapore, serving up the best of Japanese Wagyu
Chef-owner Satoru Tanaka of Nikuya Tanaka opens his first international outpost in Singapore, serving up the best of Japanese Wagyu
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Chef-owner Satoru Tanaka brings his family’s 80-year Japanese Wagyu dynasty out of Japan, starting with Singapore this September
When three generations of Japanese Wagyu mastery land in Singapore, it is hard to turn a blind eye, even in a dining landscape marred by Wagyu beef. Ranked No.27 on The World’s 101 Best Steak Restaurants, which also makes it Japan’s top steak restaurant, Nikuya Tanaka’s arrival is a blessing to authentic Japanese Wagyu purveyors. Behind the Ginza Wagyu shrine is chef-owner Satoru Tanaka, affectionately known as “Boss”, who now sets his sights on global expansion, starting with the Lion City.
Representing the third generation of a family devoted to Japanese beef, Tanaka has been wielding knives since age three and formally training since age ten. From his grandfather’s cattle dealings to his father’s butcher shop, Tanaka has built his culinary philosophy on wisdom no culinary school could impart. “Working with precious life demands complete dedication, and the customer should be treated as a god,” he reflects on his father’s teachings.
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Above Nikuya Tanaka only uses purebred Tajima Wagyu lineage, from either Kobe, Omi, or Matsusaka
Nikuya Tanaka only uses purebred Tajima Wagyu lineage, from either Kobe, Omi, or Matsusaka
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What sets Nikuya Tanaka apart isn’t merely pedigree, but the uncompromising approach to sourcing. Tanaka personally selects whole female cattle, carefully raised in exceptional environments for over 35 months, to promise traceability of provenance. “Each cow varies greatly in quality,” Tanaka explains of his whole-cattle purchasing method. “My grandfather taught me discernment; this combination of experience and intuition is why my work is valued globally.”
This means every cut comes from a purebred Tajima Wagyu lineage, from either Kobe, Omi, or Matsusaka. The result? Beef with impossibly low fat melting points, fine marbling, and richness that defies description.
Above Nikuya Tanaka’s signature chilled noodles with luscious beef consommé, served in artfully hand-carved ice bowls
Nikuya Tanaka’s signature chilled noodles with luscious beef consommé, served in artfully hand-carved ice bowls
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For the uninitiated, kappo-style dining is subtle theatre, far from steakhouse bombast. Minimalist techniques honour exceptional ingredients, allowing them to speak for themselves. Think Kobe Wagyu steak, a showcase of Tanaka’s lifelong devotion through precise binchotan charcoal grilling; beef rump tataki, kombujime-d for melt-in-the-mouth tenderness, and expertly seared in mere seconds to imbue smoke; and the signature chilled noodles with luscious beef consommé, served in artfully hand-carved ice bowls.
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Above Nikuya Tanaka’s Kobe Wagyu steak
Nikuya Tanaka’s Kobe Wagyu steak
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The Singapore outpost will be helmed by chefs Yosuke Sekiguchi and Yano Masaya, with Tanaka visiting each season to maintain standards. Sekiguchi brings three decades of Japanese cuisine experience and has played an integral role alongside Tanaka when developing the menu, while Masaya has mastered every aspect of Wagyu handling under Tanaka’s watchful eye. The 15-seater restaurant, equipped with a private dining room that seats five, will open its doors on September 22 on Teck Lim Road for both lunch and dinner.
Nikuya Tanaka Singapore
Address: 1 Teck Lim Road, S(088379)
Credits
Images: Nikuya Tanaka
